We reconsider the role of pilot watches in modern times. This issue of Chronos Japan, Vol. 98, "Praise for Pilot Watches," is now republished on webChronos. In this fifth installment, we delve into military pilot watches, which continue to strongly define the role of this genre today.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]
Advances in aviation have led to innovations in military pilot watches.
When you think of a pilot's watch, you probably imagine the rugged military watches used by air forces around the world. Until civil aviation took over after the war, the military dominated the aviation world. Military pilot's watches still define what a pilot's watch should be. We'd like to explore how their design and functionality have changed over time by looking at modern models.
Pilot's Watch Category: Military

This model pays tribute to the U.S. Navy fighter plane, the Vought F4U Corsair. Its distinctive colors are incorporated into the dial. It has practical functions such as a chronograph, a second time zone display, and a bidirectional rotating bezel with 12-hour display. The hour hand can be adjusted independently. Automatic winding (Cal. B04). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 46mm, thickness 15.9mm). Water resistant to 100m. (Inquiries) Breitling Japan Tel. 0120-105-707
(Left) Breitling "AVI REF.765 1953 Re-Edition"
This is a reproduction of Breitling's classic Co-Pilot. It faithfully reproduces the original design down to the smallest detail, including the snap-type case back, Hesalite crystal crystal, and the burnt color of the thickly applied Super-LumiNova. Manual winding (Cal. B09). 34 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.95mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 1953 pieces worldwide. (Inquiries) Breitling Japan Tel. 0120-105-707
In the early days, pilot watches were almost always for military use or similar purposes. At first, they were not much different from regular wristwatches, but as aviation rapidly evolved, their designs and functions improved.
Pilot's watches from the 1920s and 1930s did not have as strict design codes as those from later periods. Examples include the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, which was modeled after a pilot's watch from this era, and the Longines Weems Second-Setting Watch. The only thing pilot's watches from this era had in common was their large size.

This model features a special mechanism that allows the inner disc in the center of the dial to rotate when the crown is pulled out to the first position, synchronizing the second hand with the time signal. This model demonstrates how important accuracy down to the second was to pilots of the past. It features a retractable case back. Automatic winding (Cal. L699). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 46 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 47.5 mm, thickness 15.6 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. (Inquiries) Longines Tel. 03-6254-7350
(Center) Breguet "Type XI 3817"
A flyback chronograph with a central coaxial counter. It inherits the design of the so-called "Aéronavale" model that Breguet once supplied to the French Navy Air Corps. The coin-edge decoration on the case side and the multi-layered dial give it the elegance that is characteristic of the company. Automatic movement (Cal. 584Q/2). 26 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 15.2mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
(Right) Zenith "Pilot Type 20 Extra Special"
The large 45mm case, easy-to-grip crown, highly legible Arabic numeral indexes, and nubuck leather strap evoke the vintage feel of the early days of aviation. The bronze case allows you to enjoy the changes in texture that occur over time. Automatic movement (Cal. ELITE679). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Bronze case (diameter 45mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861
However, from the mid-1930s onwards, as aircraft ranges and altitudes increased dramatically, the requirements for pilot watches suddenly became more stringent. Not only was it necessary to be able to read the time on long-distance flights, but high visibility was also required, both in the dark and under strong light sources. As a result, many pilot watches followed the example of aircraft instruments, featuring black dials with luminous hands and large Arabic numerals. The black dial made it easy to read the time even in strong light, and the luminous hands and numerals were designed for night flying, which became popular in the 1930s. German brands such as Laco and Stowa still carry this style today. Also, from the mid-1930s onwards, rotating bezels that could count flight time and chronographs became popular.
Then, after the mid-1930s, when acrylic crystals began to be used in aircraft, they were quickly adapted for use in pilot watches. The flexible acrylic crystals allowed pilot watches to maintain a high level of airtightness, regardless of changes in air pressure. Furthermore, even if an acrylic crystal were to break, there was little risk of it injuring the pilot. This is why acrylic crystals were later favored by the German military, NASA, and other organizations.
Another evolution was pressurization. During World War I, the dangers of hypoxia and decompression sickness caused by high-altitude flight became a matter of renewed awareness. In response, military aircraft from around 1919 began to carry oxygen tanks. However, oxygen tanks would freeze at high altitudes, causing problems for many pilots.

In the late 1930s, in order to achieve high-altitude flight, countries began to pressurize the cockpit itself. The first aircraft to achieve this so-called "pressurized cockpit" was the B-29 Superfortress bomber (1944).
On the other hand, few fighter planes of this era had pressurized cockpits, but the British Spitfire fighter did have some high-altitude specifications. This was one of the reasons why the Mark X pilot's watch supplied by IWC to the Royal Air Force came to have a structure in which the bezel and middle case were integrated. Even if the cockpit were shot through and the pressurized cockpit were to be decompressed, a two-piece case would prevent the crystal from coming off. It is fair to say that the two-piece case, which has now become a distinctive feature of German (and IWC) pilot's watches, was introduced by the British military.
During the last war, Laco, along with other renowned manufacturers, supplied the German military with aviation chronometers. This model's design follows that tradition. Functional beauty shines through in its rugged design, including a riveted strap and sandblasted case. Manual winding (Cal. Laco01). 17 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (42mm diameter, 13mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. (Inquiries) Link Up Tel. 075-693-1236
This model features a vintage-finished bronze case. The Super-LumiNova applied to the hands and indexes is a burnt cream color. The rotor bears the same engraving that was inscribed on the case back when the watch was delivered to the German military. Automatic winding (Cal. ETA2824-2). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Bronze case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.2mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. (Inquiries) Spindle Shin-Maru Building Store Tel. 03-3211-5117
After Germany's destruction in World War II, the center of pilot's watches shifted from Germany to France. This era saw the widespread adoption of chronographs. Junghans' Meister Pilot and Breguet's Type XXI watches still adhere to the Type 20 design standard established by the French military in the 1950s. The latter also faithfully adheres to the requirement that the watch feature a flyback function. While flyback functions are no longer necessary today, in the 1950s, this feature was considered essential for aircraft chronographs, especially fighter aircraft. Breitling's AVI REF. 765 1953 Re-Edition is another iconic military pilot's watch of this era. While it was not officially adopted, the French and Italian militaries showed interest in this model shortly after its release. The original AVI had a digital 15-minute counter, but the French military is said to have had it converted to a standard analog display.

A modern update of a model delivered to the German military in the 1950s. The distinctive 12-sided bezel contributes to the miniaturization of the bezel itself while maintaining ease of use. The thick, long hands, which improve visibility, convey the pride of a long-established company pursuing high precision. Automatic winding (Cal. J880.4). 45 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 43.3 mm, thickness 14.4 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. (Inquiries) Europassion Tel. 03-5295-0411
The Damascus DK10B is a symbol of today's military pilot watches. It incorporates everything required of a modern pilot watch, including a structure that prevents the bezel from coming off even in the event of sudden decompression, high magnetic resistance thanks to a silicon balance spring, and a hardened exterior. The hardened exterior was chosen to prevent watches from being knocked around in the cramped interior of a cockpit. The same reason applies to IWC, which uses ceramic cases, and Breitling, which hardens its cases through forging.
With the advances in aviation technology, there is no longer a large demand for military pilot watches, but the style continues to strongly define what a pilot watch should be.

A simple pilot's watch with excellent visibility and a bidirectional rotating bezel. As the "Si" on the dial indicates, silicon is used for the balance spring and escapement, improving magnetic resistance. The case is made of hardened stainless steel patented by Damasco. Automatic winding (Cal. A35-1). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 52 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.2mm). Water resistant to 100m. (Inquiries) Brains Tel. 03-3510-7711







