We're reconsidering the role of pilot watches in the modern era. The "Praise for Pilot Watches" feature from Vol. 98 of Chronos Japan has been republished on webChronos. This time, we're focusing on the Sinn 103, a direct descendant of the French military's Type 20 standard, which has maintained its tool-like feel since its inception.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Text
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]
A true tool watch, following the Type 20 standard
The Sinn 103, released in the late 1960s, was a new generation pilot's chronograph based on the French military Type 20 standard but with a waterproof case made by Piquelet. The 103 is still in production today. Representative models include the basic 103.B.AUTO and the limited edition 103.KLASSIK12.
Sinn "103.KLASSIK12" "103.B.AUTO"
This is the third-generation 103.B, manufactured in the 1980s. The "A" suffix has a white inner dial. The "B" suffix has an all-black dial. According to Michele Tripi, an old Sinn expert, "The case is an old-stock Girard-Perregaux." The catalog states it is water resistant to 10 bar, but the case back states it is water resistant to 4 bar. This is a unique example from this transitional period. Manual winding (Cal. ETA7760). 28,800 vph. 17 jewels. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 13mm thick). Reference product.
(Right) Jin "103.B"
This is the third-generation 103.B, likely manufactured later than the model on the left. It uses the same ETA7760 movement. Unlike later 103s, the case lacks a crown guard and the lugs are slender. It's less well-made than current models, but that gives it a tool-like feel. This was the first 103 officially released in Japan. It later became a huge hit. Manual winding (Cal. ETA7760). 28,800 vph. 17 jewels. Stainless steel case (38.5mm diameter, 15.5mm thick). Reference product.
The "Type 20" standard (December 1952) created by the French military and the "Type 21" standard (April 1956), which added a rotating bezel, had a decisive influence on pilot chronographs thereafter.
One such example is Sinn's "103." Founded in 1961, the company achieved success by selling chronographs manufactured by Swiss watchmakers according to the Type 20 under their own brand. Since then, Sinn has continued to produce the 103, albeit with different movements. While many chronographs today have their roots in the Type 20, the 103 is the chronograph that is closest to the original, the one that is closest to a tool watch. The basic 103.B is a symbol of this. While the sub-dial arrangement is different and the case size is larger, the aluminum bezel, reinforced acrylic crystal, and sub-dial typeface are the closest to the classic Type 20.
The structure of the 103 is the same as that of old pilot's watches. The movement, dial, hands, and case are all made by external suppliers. The reason Sinn has gained a reputation in the world of pilot's watches is because of its excellence in assembly and quality control. Even after founder Helmut Sinn left, his successor, Lothar Schmidt, applied the know-how he had cultivated at IWC to turn Sinn, an "assembly shop," into "Sinn Special Watch Co., Ltd.", a company trusted by professionals.
Sinn celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2021. To commemorate this, it released the 103.KLASSIK12, which features a classic tri-compax layout.
This model commemorates Sinn's 60th anniversary. In addition to the classic three-eye horizontal layout, it features a rotating bezel with a ceramic insert and exclusive Sinn technologies, such as Ar-Dehumidifying Technology, which absorbs moisture from the case. It's a sophisticated tool watch, so to speak. Automatic movement (Cal. SW510). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 17mm thick). Water resistant to 20 bar. Limited to 600 pieces worldwide.
(Right) Sinn "103.B.AUTO"
The 103.B.AUTO faithfully inherits the design of the third generation. Its crystal is made of reinforced acrylic, as required by the German military, and has an aluminum bezel. The case is made by SUG in Glashütte, Germany, in which Sinn also has a stake. Its design, with its thick lugs, closely resembles the waterproof cased watches of the late 1960s. Automatic winding (Cal. Concepto C99001). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 15.5mm thick). Water resistant to 20 bar.
After Type 20 pilot chronographs became unavailable in the late 1970s, Sinn began producing new pilot chronographs powered by the Lemania 5100. However, in the early 80s, ETA relaunched the automatic chronograph 7750. With a new, more versatile movement, the 103 was reborn, but with a different dial layout.
In contrast, the 103.KLASSIK12 has a so-called tri-compax layout with a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a small second at 9 o'clock. This is exactly the same as the 103 from the 1960s and 1970s. The combination of a black dial and ivory subdials is also reminiscent of the old "103 Compax."
However, this is no retro reissue. The rotating bezel insert is now made of scratch-resistant ceramic instead of aluminum, and the dial finish has been changed from matte to polished black lacquer. The indices and hands are also rhodium-plated rather than painted. The tool watch 103 is given the same finish as the flagship "Frankfurt Financial District Watch" to mark the former as a premium version. As proof of this, the "Frankfurt Financial District Watch" logo has been added below the logo, just like the latter.
The basic 103.B and the updated 103.KLASSIK12 are completely different in character, but they share a common, unchanging tool-like feel. They feature a thick case, a reliable automatic chronograph movement, 20 bar water resistance, and outstanding legibility. While it may be easier to get into now, the 103, made by Sinn Special Watch Co., Ltd., is a direct descendant of the Type 20, meaning it is the pilot's chronograph that is closest to a tool watch.
