We're reconsidering the role of pilot watches in the modern era. This issue of Chronos Japan, Vol. 98, "Pilot Watch Praise," is now republished on webChronos. This time, we'll be introducing five "pilot watches" that are sophisticated yet professional, including those worn by the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School, "Top Gun."
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Text
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]
85 years of experience refining professional tools
IWC, which released its pilot's watch in 1936, has since collaborated with air forces around the world. In particular, its work with the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School, also known as "Top Gun," has further evolved the company's pilot's watch. While being a professional tool, the pilot's watch also boasts the quality to be used widely. The five watches introduced here are emblematic of this.
The 14th Fighter Attack Squadron, also known as the "Top Hatters," was founded in 1919. The dial and hands are finished in the squadron's distinctive red accents. The crown and other components are made of Ceratanium. A soft iron inner case provides enhanced anti-magnetic properties. Automatic winding (Cal. 69380). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 46 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 44.5mm, thickness 15.7mm). Water resistant to 6 bar.
(Center) Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun "Royal Maces"
The 27th Fighter Attack Squadron of the United States Marine Corps, also known as the "Royal Maces," is stationed at Iwakuni Air Base in Japan. It is one of nine squadrons attached to Carrier Air Wing 5 in Yokosuka. The base model was developed in collaboration with the 27th Fighter Attack Squadron. This civilian model is finished in the Maces' unique yellow. The F/A-18E "Super Hornet" is engraved on the case back. The basic specifications are the same as the model on the right.
(Left) Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun "Blue Angels®"
This model commemorates the 75th anniversary of the US Navy's acrobatic flying squadron, the Blue Angels. In keeping with the Blue Angels name, the case is crafted from blue ceramic and the dial has also been redesigned to blue. This model, as well as other models equipped with the 69 series chronograph movement, have larger subdials than the previous models equipped with the 79 series. This makes the chronograph significantly easier to use. The basic specifications are the same as the model on the right.
IWC "Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun" and "Big Pilot's Watch"
IWC produced its first pilot's watch in 1936 and has since provided pilot's watches to air forces around the world. It was the Mark XI in 1948 that solidified its reputation. With high magnetic resistance, water resistance, and a pressure-resistant case with an integrated bezel and middle case, this watch represented the pinnacle of military pilot's watches. Highly acclaimed by various military forces, IWC also made the Mark XI available to the civilian market. This was the so-called "civilian" model.
This tradition continues to this day at IWC, which began collaborating with the US Navy Fighter Weapons School (also known as "TOP GUN") in 2007. Behind the scenes, the company has been developing watches that incorporate the input of pilots flying cutting-edge aircraft.
Since the 2000s, IWC has been conducting rigorous testing in its in-house laboratory. Chronograph start, stop, and reset functions are tested 2 times and 1 times, respectively. Dials are exposed to a 300-watt halogen lamp for 120 hours to check for deterioration, equivalent to the amount of sunlight a watch will be exposed to in its lifetime. They are also stored at temperatures ranging from -20°C to 70°C to ensure they function in harsh environments. Sports watches, including pilot's watches, are subjected to 10 small shocks to ensure proper function. Crowns are wound a lifetime, and their airtightness is checked afterward. It's no surprise then that a company like IWC has become serious about pilot's watches. Today, IWC is the only manufacturer licensed to develop pilot's watches for the U.S. Navy's 347th Aero Team, and the Top Gun watches it sells are essentially the same as the engraved models for its personnel.
The Big Pilot's Watch is a professional pilot's watch with a soft-iron anti-magnetic inner case. This model combines it with an "unusual" green dial. As you'd expect from a company that specializes in colored dials, the combination of luxury and high legibility is impressive. Automatic (Cal. 52110). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 168 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 46.2mm, thickness 15.4mm). Water resistant to 6 bar.
The case material was one area where the opinions of active pilots were strongly reflected. Previously, the Top Gun case was made of stainless steel. However, all current models are made of either ceramic or Ceratanium, a new material that combines the benefits of both titanium and ceramic. While IWC also uses titanium, the professional-grade Top Gun is made exclusively of a material that is not only light but also resistant to damage. The case size is also different from that of the general model. The Top Gun case is slightly larger than a standard pilot's watch. This is due to the addition of a soft iron inner case and a slightly wider bezel to make it less susceptible to damage in the event of an impact. While IWC's standard pilot's watches are "slim" enough for everyday use, the Top Gun remains as robust as a professional tool.
This is an attempt to add a perpetual calendar to a pilot's watch. The familiar perpetual calendar mechanism has seen significant improvements in shock resistance since the late 1990s. Its use in pilot's watches used in tough environments is understandable. The in-house manufactured case also combines robustness with a high-quality feel. Automatic winding (Cal. 52615). 54 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 168 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 46.2mm, thickness 15.4mm). Water resistant to 6 bar.
However, it seems that IWC is no longer so rugged. The three Top Guns, "Blue Angels®," "Royal Maces," and "Top Hatters," are so sophisticated that it's hard to believe they're for professionals. The "Big Pilot's Watch," featuring a green dial, also combines the quality of a professional watch with the refinement of a luxury watch. The skill with which they combined a bright dial with high legibility is extraordinary.
Despite being a purely professional watch, IWC's pilot's watch has the sophistication of a civilian. Although it is a tool, its appeal goes beyond that, and is the result of sincere craftsmanship.
