LVMH Watch Week is one of the earliest announcements of new products for 2025. Daniel Roth, who became part of Louis Vuitton's watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, in 2023, has released the dressy "Extra Plat Subscription."
Daniel Roth's new 2025 collection is "Extra Plat Subscription"
Retracing the brand's origins in the 1990s, Daniel Roth has unveiled his second model, a two-hand dress watch: the Extra-Plattice Subscription. Like its predecessor, the Tourbillon Subscription, this watch was developed and manufactured by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which became part of the brand in 2023.
Manual winding (Cal. DR002). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 18K yellow gold case (35.5mm wide x 38.6mm long, 7.7mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 20 pieces worldwide. Price: 45,000 CHF.
Daniel Roth pays homage to its roots and its founder with this new model. Following the distinctive form established by the Tourbillon Subscription, this new model is faithful to the original model from the 1990s in terms of style and craftsmanship. However, the mechanism has been completely redesigned, featuring the hand-wound movement Cal. DR002, which was specially developed for this model.
It was produced by La Fabrique du Temps
"Having known Daniel for a long time, we wanted to stay true to his philosophy and vision for watchmaking," said Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, founders of La Fabrique du Temps. "The Extra-Plat Subscription is a simple two-hand watch, realized to the highest aesthetic and technical standards, as Daniel would have done, but this time produced in our own Manufacture."
Celebrating the original
Following in the footsteps of the Tourbillon Subscription, the Extra-Plattice Subscription is housed in an 18K yellow gold case and features an 18K yellow gold dial adorned with handmade Clous de Paris guilloching.
The Extra Plat Suscription faithfully maintains the refined form of the original model from the 1990s, and has the same dimensions as the Tourbillon Suscription, measuring 35.5mm wide x 38.6mm long. However, the case is even thinner than the Tourbillon Suscription, at 7.70mm thick. This is thanks to the inclusion of the ultra-thin movement, Cal. DR002, which is just 3.1mm thick.
The case design remains faithful to the original, but has been slightly reworked in keeping with Daniel Roth's visual codes. Crafted from 18K yellow gold, the case retains the iconic double ellipse shape, with perfectly centered pleats along the perimeter for symmetry. Meanwhile, the lugs are slightly rounded for visual consistency and arch downwards for superior comfort.
Also pay attention to the guilloched dial
The guilloched dial is also crafted in the traditional, artisanal way: it consists of two parts: a base and a chapter ring attached to it, both of which are made of 18K yellow gold and are hand-engraved using restored antique machines at La Fabrique du Temps' in-house guilloché atelier.
Newly developed movement, Cal. DR002
The second movement designed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton for Daniel Roth, the DR002, celebrates Daniel Roth himself and Swiss high watchmaking. While retaining the distinctive visual style of the DR001 movement used in the Tourbillon Subscription, the DR002 was developed from scratch specifically for the Escutcheon Platter Subscription.
Cal. DR002 employs a movement with the same unique "double ellipse" shape as the case. Despite its unconventional form, this movement is equipped with all the characteristics of traditional high watchmaking, both structurally and decoratively. The elegant contours of the bridges, inspired by classical movements, are finished with rounded, polished chamfers called angurage, and also feature sharp corners that can only be achieved by skilled craftsmen.
Despite the movement's classical style, the Caliber DR002's technical foundations are sophisticated. The balance, which beats at 28,800 vph, is a free-sprung mechanism with four arms, each equipped with a variable inertia weight for adjustment, ensuring exceptionally stable timekeeping performance over the long term. Furthermore, a single large mainspring provides a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, providing the convenience of running the watch for three days, or even a weekend.
Notable details
About Daniel Roth
The name of independent watchmaker Daniel Roth is often mentioned alongside such great independent watchmakers of the 20th century as George Daniels, FP Journe, and Philippe Dufour. In fact, he was a contemporary and sometimes collaborator of these great figures in traditional watchmaking. Roth was born into a family of French watchmakers and trained early at companies such as Audemars Piguet. He was soon recruited by Breguet, where he led the brand's redevelopment in 1976 and re-established it in Switzerland with the opening of its first workshop in Le Brassus. Over the next 12 years, his influence on Breguet's future was immeasurable. In 1988, Roth became one of the first watchmakers to leave the stability of a major brand to launch his own eponymous brand. Having quickly set the highest standards, the master watchmaker began work on tourbillon wristwatches housed in the unique double ellipse case that would become the brand's signature design. In 1988, a commission from Asprey in London to create 25 hand-wound double-faced tourbillons with a special seconds display provided the capital to launch his brand and vision.
In 1989, this distinctive tourbillon was put into production as the 2187/C187. Shortly thereafter, Roth introduced the C147, a two-register chronograph based on the legendary Lemania 2310, and a series of rattrapante special pieces using the Venus 179 movement. It's important to remember that at the time, manual-winding chronographs were virtually unheard of in the catalogs of major Swiss manufacturers, let alone smaller brands. Roth subsequently produced the C107 Ultra-Thin Automatic, the C127 Retrograde, and the C117 Perpetual Calendar, all housed in Roth's now-iconic oval case. The C117 Perpetual Calendar's instantaneous jump mechanism was the result of direct collaboration with Philippe Dufour and others.
