Louis Vuitton unveils all-new Tambour [LVMH Watch Week 2025]

LVMH Watch Week was one of the first to announce new models for 2025. Louis Vuitton has launched two completely new Tambour collections. We will introduce these new models, which allow you to enjoy the brand's sophisticated watchmaking.

Louis Vuitton 2025 New Release ① "Tambour Drum Spin Time"

　Louis Vuitton has launched an entirely new collection, the Tambour Tyco Spin Time. Each limited edition watch has been developed from scratch to push the boundaries of complication into the next generation. It is also noteworthy that each watch is powered by an in-house movement developed specifically for this collection by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

　The Spin Time concept was born in 2007 from the exceptional talents of veteran watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who founded La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton as specialists in complicated movements. With decades of experience at some of Switzerland's most prestigious watchmakers, the duo was well versed in classic high watchmaking. However, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini also sought innovation and invention to further enrich their vision of watchmaking.

　The Tambour Spin Time, released in 2009, established Louis Vuitton's position not only as a watch but also as a manufacturer of original complications. Since then, the Spin Time series has evolved into a diverse series of timepieces that represent Louis Vuitton's wide range of materials and repertoire of complications.

Six new models released

　Six limited editions of the latest Spintime collection, which has a rich history, have been released simultaneously. Each has been designed from scratch as the ultimate refinement of a complex mechanism. This collection is available in two sizes, 39.5mm and 42.5mm, sharing the same Tambour Drum case. The 39.5mm model features a discreet solid case back, while the 42.5mm model features a transparent case back that reveals the in-house movement.

　To ensure a uniform look across the entire range of the original Tambour Tyco Spin Time models, all six variations feature 18K white gold cases and understated yet powerful, instantly recognizable Dolphin Grey dials. All cubes, except for the hour cubes, feature a light grey face, and are finished in the same Dolphin Grey hue. While most elements of the dial are the same hue, individual details are finished using a variety of techniques, including sunburst and hawk's eye, resulting in a richly nuanced multi-toned appearance that changes with the light.

　The masterful use of color and texture is further accentuated in the jewel-encrusted Spin Time model, where the gray-blue color palette extends to the hawk's eye dial. Prized for its lustrous color and delicate pattern, this gray-blue quartz movement is being used in Louis Vuitton watchmaking for the first time.

　The purest expression of this complex mechanism is the 39.5mm Tambour Tyco Spin Time model, equipped with the Cal. LFT ST13.01 movement. This model combines the Cal. LFT ST13.01 with a dial containing a jumping hour cube, achieving a clear and highly visible display despite the complex mechanism.

　This model features a hawk's eye dial set with indexes set with 12 baguette-cut diamonds (totaling 0.13 carats). The 18K white gold case is water resistant to 100m and comes with a fully waterproof integrated rubber strap, creating a sporty yet chic style. The lugs and dial are also set with baguette-cut diamonds totaling 4.3 carats, matching the center of the hawk's eye dial, adding to the gorgeous look.

　This model, with its see-through outer dial, is a particularly distinctive piece among the collection released this time.

　This model is an even more gorgeous version of the previously mentioned see-through dial model, featuring a hawk's eye dial set with 118 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.26 carats) and a case set with 909 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 2.92 carats).

The Tambour Tyco Spin Time Antipodes combines a unique jumping hour mechanism with the world's first travel time complication. While a conventional hand indicates the minutes, the hours are indicated by a yellow arrowhead pointer inspired by the stitching on Louis Vuitton leather goods. This pointer is mounted on a rotating disc featuring a galvanic world map, a graphic representation of the Antipodes World Time complication. The display of opposite time zones is the inspiration for the "Antipodes" name. This model was developed at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

　It shows the time in 24 time zones around the world simultaneously with a day/night indicator, presented in an easy-to-read and intuitive way.

　Local time is indicated by a yellow minute hand and hour pointer, while world time is displayed by 12 cubes in a spinning time mechanism surrounding a world map disc. The hour numerals adjacent to each cube indicate the time in two cities marked on that cube. This ingenious design, with two cities per cube, sets the Antipodes apart from traditional world time mechanisms. This patented complication, thanks to technical ingenuity, allows users to easily keep track of multiple time zones at a glance through an interface that is simple and practical despite its complexity. The background colors of each city indicate the day/night distinction.

　This is a central tourbillon model. The Tambour Tyco Spin Time Air and Air Tourbillon mechanisms had to be housed within the strict constraints of the limited central volume of the case. Because the cube takes up most of the peripheral volume, central placement of both the automatic base movement and the flying tourbillon required significant design changes to the base movement. Not only did the main gear train need to be repositioned to position the tourbillon above the dial, but the minute hand was also repositioned below and around the tourbillon.

Technical capabilities that enable complex case manufacturing

Aiming to showcase the in-house case-making skills of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Tambour Drum case features a complex mix of mirrored and satin-finished surfaces, as well as raised and recessed elements. Adhering to the design codes of the current Tambour, the bezel features "LOUIS VUITTON" in polished relief lettering within a sandblasted groove, while the sides of the case are satin-brushed.

　The mirror-finished surface is polished by hand using a beechwood polishing wheel coated with diamond paste, while the recesses are matted with a laser. This same technique is used to matte the recessed grooves of the bezel, without damaging the polished relief lettering.

A groundbreaking movement family

　Every model in the Tambour Tyco Spin Time collection is equipped with an in-house movement developed from scratch specifically for the collection. Entirely conceived and produced at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the new Spin Time movement confirms Louis Vuitton's position as a vertically integrated watchmaker in Geneva, the traditional heart of Swiss high watchmaking.

　Furthermore, this movement family shares the distinctive visual style introduced with Caliber LFT023, the movement featured in the Tambour, launched in 2023. All of these movements share the new aesthetic codes first established with Caliber LFT023, including a solid gold rotor intricately decorated with a stylized "LV" in the form of a repeated motif. Together with micro-sandblasted bridges, polished edges and chamfers, this rotor gives a thoroughly contemporary look while maintaining a clear connection to the watch's overall design language.

　The circular-grained mainplate pays homage to traditional movement decoration, while the use of colorless diamonds rather than the more conventional red synthetic rubies accentuates the movement's avant-garde, modern look.

　In addition to the new style, the new collection features a redesigned mechanism based on a newly patented mechanism that improves on the original Spin Time concept. The upgraded complication operates on the same principle: two cubes rotate simultaneously, disappearing the previous hour and revealing the current hour.

　To achieve this, the engineers at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton devised a patented Maltese cross wheel, which is located at the base of each cube. Unique in that it has teeth on its inner edge, the Maltese cross wheel is also part of a system that allows for convenient time setting. The jumping hour display can be adjusted forwards or backwards without damaging the movement—a remarkable achievement for a jumping hour complication that, until now, could only be set forwards.

Notable details of the "Tambour Taiko Spin Time"

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Louis Vuitton 2025 New Release ② "Tambour Automatic Convergence"

　At LVMH Watch Week 2025, Louis Vuitton introduced two other noteworthy new models: the Tambour Automatic Convergence. This collection, too, was conceived and crafted using the same aesthetic language that unifies Louis Vuitton's Geneva ateliers: La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which designs movements; La Fabrique des Boitiers, which crafts cases; and La Fabrique des Arts, which specializes in rare arts and crafts. The collection's name not only refers to the fusion of Louis Vuitton's in-house craftsmanship, but also to the Tambour Convergence's unique time display.

Fusion of Time

　The Tambour Convergence replicates the Tambour's gracefully curved sides, tapering towards an inflection point. This allows the case to sit comfortably on the wrist and creates a slim appearance that belies the robustness of the automatic movement inside. Redesigned lugs set it apart from the current Tambour collection, heralding a new era of aesthetic diversity within the collection and drawing the eye with its harmonious, geometric profile.

　The top surfaces of the lugs are hand-polished, while the sides are recessed and micro-sandblasted, creating a visually elegant interplay between the contrasting finishes. The satin-finished case sides give the Tambour Convergence a slimmer appearance than its 8mm thickness would suggest. The discreet 37mm case diameter makes it suitable for a variety of wrist sizes. The polished crown mirrors the shape of the case and is slightly fluted for easier winding and time-setting. The transparent case back reveals the new in-house automatic movement, Cal. LFT MA01.01.

An original time display

　The time is displayed through two windows engraved into a precious plate, the shape of which recalls the interior details of the Vuitton family's Asnières mansion. The hours rotate clockwise through the upper arched window, while the minutes are displayed in the lower arch. Diamond-shaped markers in gold or platinum placed between the two windows allow for intuitive reading of the time. Countless hidden details combine to make the time display as easy to read as possible, from the metal edging on the sapphire crystal to the shape of the crystal itself, which is curved enough to provide structural strength without distorting the numerals below.

A fusion of craftsmanship

　Both new Tambour Convergence models offer a distinctive and captivating aesthetic. The platinum model features a satin silver finish and hour and minute discs with transfer-printed blue numerals. The watch's decorative focal point, the precious plate surrounding the time display, is set with 795 diamonds using a technique known as snow setting, in which stones of different sizes are placed so closely together that the metal is barely visible. Snow setting is performed by hand by experienced jewelers who are able to combine stones of various sizes to ultimately create one seamless, shimmering surface. The platinum Tambour Convergence features seven different sizes of stones, requiring 32 hours of meticulous work to complete.

Combination of expertise

　The Tambour Convergence case is entirely crafted in La Fabrique des Boitiers' workshops, a newly integrated Louis Vuitton case-making facility in Geneva. Within the confines of a 37mm diameter, it is powered by the new in-house automatic movement, Cal. LFT MA01.01, which offers a power reserve of approximately 45 hours. The creation of this movement marks a production milestone for La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and demonstrates the strength of the company's watchmaking department's production and engineering expertise.

New movement Cal.LFT MA01.01

　This compact movement, a time-only movement, boasts industry-standard balance frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph). An 18K rose gold rotor with high inertia efficiently winds the movement's barrel, providing the mechanism with an optimal level of energy for everyday use. This modern chronometer's commitment to quality and reliability is further reflected in features such as a free-sprung balance with a high-precision mass block. For those who appreciate the refinement of traditional watchmaking, details such as the elegantly arched barrel pallets further enhance the visual sophistication of the Caliber LFT MA01.01.

Notable details of the Tambour Automatic Convergence