We reconsider the role of pilot's watches in the modern era. This issue of Chronos Japan Vol. 98, "Praise for Pilot's Watches," has been republished on webChronos. This time, we will be looking at pilot's watches that combine practicality and aesthetics, which IWC has been working on since the 1980s. What are the unique pilot's watches that also have a touch of luxury?
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Text
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]
A civilian model that combines practicality and aesthetics
Since the 1980s, IWC has maintained the same structure while making modifications to make it more suitable for everyday use. The Big Pilot's Watch 43 and Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41, released in 2021, are emblematic of this. Both stand out for their size and high-quality exterior, making them suitable for everyday use.
IWC Big Pilot's Watch 43 and Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41
This is the ancestor of the Big Pilot's Watch, produced in 1940 in only 1000 pieces. It was delivered to the German Air Force via Siegfried Heindorf in Berlin. To achieve chronometer-level accuracy, it is equipped with the pocket watch movement Cal. 52T.SC. To ensure legibility, the dial is 49mm wide. The case is made by Staybrite. Manual winding (Cal. 52T.SC). 16 jewels. 18,000 vph. Diameter 55mm, thickness 17.5mm. Reference product.
(Right) Big Pilot's Watch 43
This "small" Big Pilot's Watch is equipped with the core caliber 82 series. In addition to the case being 3mm smaller, the elimination of the soft iron inner case has significantly improved the wearing comfort. The "EasX-CHANGE" system makes it easy to change the strap. Automatic winding (Cal. 82100). 22 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 43mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 10 bar.
There are two major trends in IWC's pilot watches. One is the highly functional pilot watches represented by the Mark X and Mark XI. The other is the large pilot watches that began with the "Big Pilot's Watch" for the German military in 1940. The former evolved into the Top Gun, which has even more functionality, while the latter is evolving into a watch suitable for everyday use while retaining the appearance of a pilot's watch.
Symbolizing this is the Big Pilot's Watch 43, which was added in 2021. The case size is 43mm in diameter, 3mm smaller than the existing model. Although it is only a difference of 3mm, the shorter overall length clearly improves the wearing comfort. The watch itself has also become lighter by changing the movement from the pocket watch-sized 52 series to the compact 82 series. The soft iron inner case has also been deliberately omitted for the sake of wearing comfort.
Since reviving the Pilot's Watch in the 1980s, IWC has been working to make professional tools accessible to everyday people, as evidenced by the colorful limited edition Mark XII watches of the 1990s. However, by increasingly producing cases in-house, IWC was eventually able to inject a touch of luxury into its otherwise modest pilot's watches.
This is the first Big Pilot's Watch with a bracelet. While the bracelet still has a small amount of play, there's no longer any need to worry about metal chips getting on your sleeves as before. The vibrant blue dial, in keeping with IWC tradition, offers excellent legibility even under strong light sources. It features the "EasX-CHANGE" system, which allows for easy strap changes. Automatic winding (Cal. 82100). 22 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 43 mm, thickness 13.6 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar.
(Right) Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41
This model symbolizes the "democratization" of pilot watches. The case size has been reduced from 43mm to 41mm in diameter, while improvements in case manufacturing technology have increased water resistance from 6 bar to 10 bar. The dial is also a trendy green color. It uses the "EasX-CHANGE" system. Automatic winding (Cal. 69385). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 46 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 14.5mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar.
IWC's pilot's watches clearly improved with the 1997 Mark XV. The case and bracelet were still satin-finished, but the increased precision of the exterior processing gave them a level of perfection that went beyond that of a tool watch. Furthermore, the latest pilot's watches combined satin and polished finishes, giving them the appearance of luxury sports watches. However, the mirrored surface area was kept to a minimum to prevent the watch from shining too brightly even under strong light sources, which is why they are still considered pilot's watches.
The same can be said for colorful dials, which have become a trend in recent years. IWC has always specialized in bright blue dials, but in recent years they have also started using polished lacquer. The dials used in pilot watches have a glossy finish at first glance. However, the tone is muted so that the dial does not reflect light even when exposed to a strong light source. A shiny dial may look luxurious, but it will lose its legibility as a pilot's watch. By paying attention to the details, IWC has managed to incorporate a sense of luxury without compromising the "promise" of a pilot's watch.
The combination of practicality and aesthetics is evident in models with bracelets. The bracelet length can be fine-tuned by pressing in the IWC relief built into the buckle. The relief is deliberately left unraveled, likely to prevent the buckle adjustment mechanism from accidentally operating if the watch is bumped. Furthermore, the buckle itself is compact at approximately 40mm, meaning there's little risk of it popping out, even on those with slimmer wrists. There's just the right amount of play on the left and right sides of the bracelet, and there's no longer any risk of metal powder spilling out, as was the case with the Mark XV.
IWC has taken its tradition of making pilot's watches and put them into a package that can be used by the average person. Today's pilot's watches are both tool watches and luxury watches, and are a product that only IWC could make.
