Vacheron Constantin: Art Deco and Arabesque Art Sublimated by the Watchmaker's Spirit of Inquiry

2025.02.13

This year marks the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin's founding. The uninterrupted tradition of fine watchmaking is driven by a spirit of relentless exploration. This spirit is embodied in Les Cabinotiers, one of the few brands to offer bespoke timepieces today, and their techniques and artistry are passed down through generations.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon: A Tribute to Art Deco

Marquetry, a traditional wood inlay technique, combines cut pieces of wood to create an overall pattern. For the first time, the Maison has incorporated the champlevé enamel technique, which brings out the contours of the marquetry. The artistic decoration, made of gold and natural wood, took approximately one month to complete.
Text by Mitsuru Shibata
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]


Learn about the world of Haute Horlogerie from Vacheron Constantin

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon: A Tribute to Art Deco

The production process begins with creating a puzzle-like sketch consisting of different pieces, which are then cut one by one. 110 thin wooden boards are cut out to fit this pattern. The natural wood used is pear and tulip tree, which are stained black and blue respectively and finished with a smooth surface. Cracks and chips are not permitted, and when cutting with a jigsaw, the wood must be cut in the uniform direction of the grain, which often results in splitting along that line, requiring delicate work. This is truly the world of Métiers d'Art at its finest.

 The spirit of exploration that permeates the Maison is derived from a letter written by François Constantin to Jacques-Barthémie Vacheron III in 1819: "Do the best you can, or at least try."

 This may have not only encouraged Jacques-Barthélémy, who was devoted to watchmaking, but also inspired François himself, who continued on his arduous journey to expand his sales channels around the world. His adventures in search of encounters and discoveries with different cultures resonated with his challenge to the profound art of watchmaking. The two "Les Cabinotiers" watches released in 2023 are reminiscent of this trajectory.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon: A Tribute to Art Deco

The design motif of "Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon - A Tribute to Arabesque Style" is the architectural decoration of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, one of the world's largest mosques, which blends Ottoman culture with ties to the Middle East that began through trade with Turkey in 1817. The case and lugs feature intricate intaglio engraving to recreate the arabesque decorations and floral patterns found on the domes and minarets. The matte black grained dial is adorned with bas-relief engraving using the Ba-Lulief technique, and is covered with an openwork latticework cover. The contrast with the white gold creates awe-inspiring scenes, reminiscent of gazing up at a majestic stained-glass window.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon: A Tribute to the Arabesque

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon: A Tribute to the Arabesque
The intaglio engraving that covers the entire case is hand-carved to a precision of less than 0.1mm, and took approximately three months to complete. The three-dimensional openwork of the dial that flows from it exudes a sense of life, and the flange is engraved with a geometric pattern reminiscent of the silhouette of a mosque. Manual winding (Cal. 2755 TMR). 40 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 58 hours. 18KWG case (diameter 44mm, thickness 13.5mm). Not waterproof. Unique piece.

 At the other end of the spectrum is "Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon - A Tribute to Art Deco," which embodies Western European decorative culture. Its motif is the Art Deco style that flourished in the 1920s in America, which also began trading at the same time as Turkey. The Chrysler Building, completed in 30, is a symbol of this style, and its prosperity and powerful modernity radiating out towards the zenith are expressed using marquetry techniques that make full use of advanced techniques.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon: A Tribute to Art Deco

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon: A Tribute to Art Deco
The minute track, offset slightly toward 12 o'clock from the center, is set with pearl minute dots and faceted diamonds that match the width of the dots. It adds a graceful dynamic to the symmetrical design characteristic of Art Deco. Manual winding (Cal. 2755 TMR). 40 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 58 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 44mm, thickness 13.5mm). Not waterproof. Unique piece.

 The two-layered dial creates a three-dimensional effect, each layer carved into the gold plate, leaving the outlines of the gold plate, and inlaid with black and blue wood pieces. The combination of champlevé enamel and wood marquetry further accentuates the richness of the expression. It evokes the arrow-shaped spire of the Chrysler Building, creating a visual effect that makes the skyscraper appear to float in three dimensions.

 Each piece is a special, unique piece created by Atelier Cabinotier, a specialized department that responds to customer orders, and showcases the refined craftsmanship, artistry, and aesthetics that only a prestigious, historic brand can offer. This represents the current state of luxury timepieces, which continue to innovate for the future with a great spirit of inquiry while inheriting tradition and culture.

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon: A Tribute to the Arabesque

The design was copied onto a drawing, based on the arabesque decorations and floral patterns used in the largest Islamic house of worship in the United Arab Emirates, which has 82 domes and four minarets. The engraver used a burin to create a concave surface and reproduce smooth curves from the drypoint sketch. To achieve even more complex expression, an openwork cover was placed on the embossed black dial. Beneath the artistic decoration, which is made using a variety of engraving techniques, lies an equally intricate and complex mechanism.

Cal.2755 TMR

Both models share the same movement: the in-house Cal. 2755 TMR, introduced in 2005 to commemorate the Maison's 250th anniversary. Measuring just 6.1mm thin, it features both a tourbillon and a minute repeater. Derived from the Grand Complications collection, which boasts 16 complex mechanisms, the technology offers not only precision and reliability but also scalability. The case back features a power reserve indicator of approximately 58 hours. The large-diameter carriage features the Maison's Maltese cross logo, symbolizing the Maison's complex technology.

Professor Hirota's "This is amazing!"

 Vacheron Constantin has been working on a wide range of expressions on the canvas of watches. The high level of perfection that can be seen at a glance even in photographs is only possible thanks to the long history of Métiers d'Art.

 One example of this is the way they use white space. By skillfully balancing intricate workmanship with blank spaces, they achieve both precision and freedom. In addition, in recent years, they have acquired an even richer range of expression by adjusting the color tones. While meticulous traditional craftsmanship often kills the individuality of the entire watch, this long-established Geneva brand always includes a sense of "uniqueness."

 The two examples shown here are proof of this: the tourbillon carriage bearing the majestic Maltese cross makes these watches unmistakably Vacheron Constantin.



Contact info: Vacheron Constantin Tel. 0120-63-1755


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