We're reconsidering the role of pilot's watches in the modern era. We've republished the "Pilot's Watch Praise" feature from Vol. 98 of Chronos Japan on webChronos. This time, we'll take a closer look at the Big Pilot's Watch Top Gun "Mojave Desert," an unconventional pilot's watch from IWC, a manufacturer of pilot's watches for over 80 years.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Text
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]
The shape is unconventional. An ambitious piece with a deliberately sandy color scheme.
Since the 1980s, IWC has been working to "democratize" pilot watches. One result of this, as of 2021, is the sand-colored "Mojave Desert." This model, with its deliberately neutral exterior, is an unconventional pilot watch that only IWC could create.
This model replaces the Big Pilot's Watch with a ceramic case. The overall design is sand-colored, but the satin finish on the dial makes for better-than-expected legibility. It features an anti-magnetic soft iron inner case. Automatic movement (Cal. 52110). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 168 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 46mm, thickness 14.6mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Annual production: 250 pieces (this season's shipment is almost sold out).
(Left) IWC Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun "Mojave Desert" Ref. IW503004
This model features a perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, a specialty of IWC. The perpetual calendar module, whose basic design dates back to 1985, is highly durable and shock-resistant. Because it is a Top Gun, the "EasX-CHANGE" movement has been deliberately omitted. Automatic winding (Cal. 52615). 54 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 168 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 46.5mm, thickness 15.5mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Annual production of 150 pieces (this season's shipment is almost sold out).
"Mojave Desert" model with sand-colored exterior
Not as flashy as luxury sports watches, not as tool-like as military watches, and not as formal as divers' watches, pilot's watches are a clever saddle point between tools and luxury items. It's no surprise that various manufacturers are now exploring this genre in depth.
Of course, IWC is no exception, and in recent years, its pilot watches have begun to emphasize sophistication with elaborate finishes and vibrant dials. An even more ambitious attempt is the "Mojave Desert" with its ceramic case. This Top Gun model has a ceramic case. However, as its name suggests, the exterior is unified in a sand color. Not only the case, but also the dial, hands, and strap are all in the same color scheme, a point of emphasis.
From the late 1980s to the early 90s, IWC experimented with a variety of colored ceramics, including white, red (!), and black. The only mass-produced model was the Pilot's Watch Ref. 3705 with a black ceramic case. This model featured a screw-down caseback, which was unusual for a ceramic case, and was purely a professional-grade watch. The limited production numbers were due to the extremely complex construction required to carve out the ceramic case and then fit the inner case that supported the screw-down caseback. Mass production would have been possible if the screw-down mechanism had been eliminated, but IWC chose to use the same construction as the stainless steel model.
IWC began using ceramic cases extensively with the Top Gun in 2012. The lightweight and robust ceramic material was originally suited to pilot watches, but the company soon realized that it also had the advantage of being able to be given a variety of colors. This means that the material itself can be colored, rather than being a surface treatment, and the color will not come off even if it is hit. As Walter Wolpers of the development team said, "We don't introduce new technology until we are sure that it can be scaled up," IWC has now fully established a system for mass-producing ceramic cases.
IWC also divided the Top Gun into two models: one for professionals and one for civilians. The basic structure is exactly the same, but the former is only available to select members of Top Gun and is engraved with the name of each member. The latter is for complete civilian use. The only difference is the engraving, but by deliberately dividing the models into two, Top Gun has succeeded in expanding its lineup.
A good example of the latter would be the Top Gun "Mojave Desert." This model, which deliberately combines the entire exterior in a sand color, is an attempt to emphasize the uniqueness of its military origins rather than the high visibility required by professionals. It may be difficult for pilots to use, but it will undoubtedly appeal to users who like a military-style style.
However, even if the materials and colors of IWC's pilot watches change, the fundamental elements of a pilot's watch remain the same. In other words, the unique "Mojave Desert" is not a pilot's watch-like watch, but a genuine pilot's watch.
IWC is reinventing pilot's watches, building on 85 years of tradition in the manufacture of pilot's watches.
