Reconsidering the role of pilot watches in the modern era, we have republished the feature "Pilot Watch Praise" from Vol. 98 of Chronos Japan on webChronos. This time, Hisataka Ebe, who was the editor-in-chief of OCEANS at the time of publication, and Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan, analyze the birth and future of military-inspired pilot watches from both the perspectives of fashion and wristwatches.
Edited by Chronos-Japan (Yukiya Suzuki, Yuto Hosoda)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]
OCEANS x Chronos Japan Discuss a New Era for Military Pilot Watches
Military-inspired pilot watches have proliferated, seemingly in response to fashion trends. But could they really become the next mainstream sports watch after divers' watches? The editors-in-chief of both OCEANS and Chronos Japan look back on trends in both fashion and watches, exploring the background to the emergence of the new trend of military pilot watches and where it might lead in the future.
A new look for pilot watches born from "editing"
--Before we get into the main topic of new trends in modern pilot watches, I'd like to ask you first: why do you think military-inspired fashion, which was popular in the 1990s, has become trendy again in recent years?
Ebe Toshitaka (Editor-in-Chief of OCEANS, at the time of the January 2022 issue): First of all, fashion since the 2000s has fully entered the era of "editing," which involves creating new things by editing various clothes. While there is a keyword in fashion called "mode," which describes the construction of artistic styles, there are also "uniforms," which are the basis of men's clothing, such as military, work, and sports, but uniforms are not originally fashion but practical items. In other words, the military style of the 1990s was when practical items such as military clothing were edited and incorporated into fashion, and this is where edited fashion began, and in the 2000s, new styles that combined mode and uniforms began to be proposed more and more.
Born in Tokyo in 1977. Joined Sekai Bunka Publishing in 2000. After working in the editorial departments of Men's Ex and Begin, he left the company in 2006. He participated in the launch of OCEANS, and became its editor-in-chief in 2019. His hobby is surfing.
So why is military fashion so popular now? Well, while editing techniques continue, from the late 2010s onwards, fashion from the 1990s began to be appreciated. Military fashion was one of the topics of the 1990s, a street fashion born from the ideas and styles of young people in the city, and this culture and style is now being reevaluated and rediscovered, which is probably why.
Masamasa Hirota (Editor-in-Chief of this magazine): I see. By the way, what specific items have been edited - in other words, what kind of new military fashion has been fused with modern fashion?
Born in Osaka Prefecture in 1974. Started working as a watch journalist in 2005. Has been editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan since its second issue, and has been actively covering Switzerland. Has been in his current position since 2016.
Ebe: Uniqlo's "+J" is particularly symbolic. The lineup for the 2021 Fall/Winter collection includes military items...specifically, the MA-1. The M-51, also known as the "mod coat," is also currently attracting attention again as a fashion item, and the prices of second-hand items are rapidly rising. Essentially, the items themselves have not changed from the past, and the same items tend to be valued.
Hirota: The trend of editing what already exists is exactly the same as the trend in watches. I think pilot watches have probably been evaluated in the same way as military fashion within this trend. For example, diver's watches are too professional, but luxury sports watches can be used casually, and pilot's watches are not as targeted to a specific segment as diver's watches, so they are highly versatile. In other words, I feel that they have become something that can be used as a fashion item while still retaining their uniform-like qualities.
Ebe: Just like driving an SUV or wearing outdoor wear in the city, military watches are part of the luxury watch category.
A new concept of luxury underpinning the current popularity of military fashion
Hirota: For a long time, watch trends developed independently of fashion trends, but since the 2010s, I have the impression that they have suddenly become synchronized. Luxury sports watches are a prime example of this, and I feel like we may see a similar trend in pilot watches in the future...
Ebe: I agree. For example, Louis Vuitton currently has a 42-year-old African-American designer named Virgil Abloh. He's a fan of Japanese street culture and can usually be found wearing military pants and Nike basketball shoes. At first, I couldn't understand why a luxury brand would want to connect with street culture, but after researching, I realized it's because Louis Vuitton continues to create products for travelers.
In other words, in the past, it was mainly aristocrats who traveled, so they made products for them, and then around 2000, they started making suits and other items for business people who flew around the world. And in the 2020s, the people who travel the most are multi-creators, street artists, and DJs. If these people are part of today's wealthy class, making money while traveling the world in street fashion, then that kind of clothing will be sought after as luxury, and naturally, high-end brands will also start to deal in street fashion. So I think watchmakers are making things that fit their tastes in the same way.
Hirota: That's certainly possible. Moreover, military watches have a strong military image, but pilot watches are a good compromise. Until now, IWC has only made pilot watches for enthusiasts, but recently they have started to offer models like the "Mojave Desert," which uses ceramics and has a military-style color. With that in mind, it seems like we'll be seeing more watches with this kind of feel in the future.
Ebe: The concept of luxury has changed. Today's millionaires were deeply immersed in street fashion when they were young, and even now, as they get older, they still wear denim jackets and MA-1 jackets. I think that as they gained so many followers, military wear became an established fashion and a luxury item.
Hirota: When did that start?
Ebe: I think the base was established in the 1990s and it was well established by the 2000s.
Hirota: It's true, they're clearly different from the styles that came before. Perhaps that's why it seems like luxury sports watches and pilot watches are gaining popularity alongside the rise of street fashion, rather than being driven by brands.
Ebe: Street fashion in particular started to gain popularity in the mid-2010s. The sneaker boom was reignited, and with it, street fashion started to attract attention. It originally caught on in Asian markets like China, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, and then became popular in Japan as a reverse import, but now it feels like it's become a major culture in its own right.
It is because they value symbolism that they are supported by fashion-conscious people.
--By the way, military-style fashion has been a trend for a long time, but has it become trendy again in the 2020s? Has anything changed in terms of fashion?
Ebe: As you can see from +J, the design philosophy, concept and base have not changed, and probably will not change.
Hirota: In other words, is it something like symbolism?
Ebe: That's right. If that were to change, it would lose its value as a uniform, let alone be considered military. So what makes +J's MA-1 different from real military gear? It's that it's padded with down. Also, military gear has an orange lining, but we've changed that as well. In other words, we've updated it by changing its appearance and using different materials.
Hirota: With this in mind, the Big Pilot's Watch Top Gun "Mojave Desert" has been updated nicely, hasn't it? It has retained its symbolism while also being updated to suit the modern era.
Ebe: It incorporates elements that satisfy a certain target audience. Even though the padding has been changed to down to make it more comfortable, and the original synthetic material has been changed to cashmere, it still looks like a regular MA-1 because it has an identity based on symbols. If the MA-1 lost its left sleeve pocket, it would lose its meaning, right? If IWC's pilot's watch decided that a large crown was not practical, so they should make it smaller, it would lose its identity. It's the same thing, isn't it?
The editing power and future potential of a brand with roots
-Our editorial team predicts that pilot watches with a military theme will become even more popular in the future. What do you think are the characteristics of the colors and camouflage patterns used in these pilot watches?
Ebe: While maintaining strict design codes and symbolism, it seems like you're adapting to market needs and incorporating new ideas through your use of camouflage patterns.
Hirota: In other words, it's like your editing skills are really on display.
Ebe: I think the defining characteristics are things that can't be quantified, like sense and editing ability.
Hirota: Personally, I think the luxury sports genre lacks symbolism, but pilot watches are easier to maintain symbolism in comparison. I felt they were very similar to the MA-1.
Ebe: They have a clear origin in terms of their intended use. Luxury sports watches tend to be vague because of the word "sports," but pilot watches have a clear purpose, so they're easy to edit and make interesting. In that case, brands with roots like IWC and Breitling are likely to be strong.
For example, outdoor brand The North Face has collaborated with Gucci and Supreme, but that's because it wouldn't be convincing for a fashion brand with no connection to extreme environments to make outdoor wear. So, collaborating with an outdoor brand is more convincing and allows them to create better products. In other words, IWC and Breitling can also become a medium themselves precisely because they have the assets of pilot's watches. Even if they collaborate with a fashion brand, I think they can remain IWC and Breitling.
Hirota: Now that you mention it, it's certainly possible that both IWC and Breitling could become like that.
Ebe: It's highly valued because it's focused on one thing, but it's also solid no matter who it's paired with. I feel like it would work even if IWC set diamonds on the dial of the Mojave Desert. Because it has such a solid base, I think it would be easy to edit.
