What are the models that you can enjoy as "mechanical" watches, not quartz watches? 10 recommended "Chronos Japan Edition"

In this series, the editorial team of the watch magazine Chronos Japan introduces recommended models to readers. The theme this time is "Watches that let you enjoy the joy of being mechanical." In this day and age, quartz watches have emerged that overcome the challenges of mechanical watches, so what is the one watch that will make you choose a mechanical watch?

What watches do the editorial staff of a watch magazine recommend? Carefully selected watches ranging from "adult quartz watches" to "ultra-luxury wristwatches"!

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A model recommended by the editorial team of Chronos Japan that lets you fully enjoy the fun of mechanical watches

　Chronos Japan, a watch magazine, will celebrate its 20th anniversary in 2025. What kind of models will the editorial team, which has been working closely with watches as a specialist magazine, recommend to readers? Our online publication, webChronos, is running a project in which members of the editorial team each introduce two recommended watches based on a set theme.

　The theme for this, the eighth installment, is "Recommended models that allow you to fully enjoy the fun of mechanical watches."

　These days, convenient quartz watches are becoming more and more common. Moreover, modern quartz models are evolving at an accelerating pace, with models being released that overcome weaknesses compared to older mechanical watches, such as "weak power to turn the hands" and "few watches that can be repaired and used for a long time." We've selected models that will make you want to choose a mechanical watch even in this day and age, and allow you to fully enjoy the pleasure of being mechanical, along with the reasons why.

Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota's recommended "mechanical watches"

Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan and webChronos, who is also nicknamed the Watch Professor, chose the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph and the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer.

A. Lange & Söhne "Datograph"

　I believe that the Datograph was the first watch in the history of watches to proclaim the meaning of being mechanical.

　Prior to the Caliber L951, all chronograph movements were designed with components stamped out and then scattered throughout the watch. Good examples include the Valjoux Caliber 72, Lemania Caliber 2310, Frederic Piguet Caliber 1185 series, and the ETA Caliber 7750. Meanwhile, the Caliber L951, through the use of wire EDM, allowed for the creation of a highly curved lever and regulating spring, a design not previously seen before. The layout, which lowers the seconds hand and counter to the 6 o'clock position, ultimately resulted in a multi-layered design for the movement. Logically, curved levers and complex layouts are completely inappropriate for a measuring instrument. However, I believe the Datograph's appeal lies in its bold departure from the norm for the sake of aesthetics. Perhaps no other watch in history has been so resigned to its mechanical nature.

　To be honest, I have never thought the Datograph's movement was good. However, it is also true that there is no other chronograph movement that I like more. Incidentally, last year I had the opportunity to have a drink with Tino Beauvais, the factory manager of A. Lange & Söhne. "Why did you release a Datograph with only a different color to mark the 25th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne's revival?" he asked, "A movement that is so well-made, there's no need to tinker with it anymore." I completely agree.

Hamilton "Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer"

　One of the attractions of mechanical watches is that they last longer than quartz watches. Of course, there are quartz watches that have a long lifespan and can withstand frequent maintenance, but they are not very common. Among mechanical watches, watches with large movements have an even longer lifespan. This may be a bit of a rough statement, but if you were to travel the same distance on a 50cc motorcycle and a 5000cc car, the latter would likely suffer less mechanical damage. The same is true for watches. The larger the "engine," the less wear and tear it will have, and the longer it will last.

　The Caliber ETA (formerly Unitas) 6498-1 that powers Hamilton's Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is a movement originally designed for pocket watches, with a basic design dating back to the 1930s and directly to the late 1960s, making it a classic among classics. Considering that it uses the same engine as an old pocket watch, it's not only durable, but also has a long lifespan. In fact, I've bought quite a few watches equipped with the Caliber 6497 and its sister movement, the Caliber 6498, and have only experienced a single malfunction.

　What's more, the accuracy of this "Unitas" movement is surprisingly not bad. In fact, the high-frequency versions of Cal. 6497 and Cal. 6498-2 even exist in chronometer versions. In addition, perhaps because the movement is large, accuracy is less likely to deteriorate even with long-term use. Even with the standard grade, my impression from using it is that the accuracy is generally good.

　Unfortunately, there are only a handful of watches that use the Unitas movement today. Only a few manufacturers in the Swatch Group, including the French company Berthet, which has adapted the movement design, and Hamilton, use it. Despite its excellent durability and accuracy, the Unitas is now an endangered species due to its 37.8mm diameter.

　To be honest, it's doubtful how long the Khaki with the Caliber 6498 will remain in the lineup. So, if you're looking for a truly mechanical watch, this is the one for you. The feeling of winding the mainspring is also great, as it really does feel like handling an old watch.

Mechanical watches recommended by Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki

　Deputy editor-in-chief Suzuki Yukiya recommends Van Cleef & Arpels' Lady Arpels Heure Florale Sérisier Watch and Jacob & Co.'s Bugatti Tourbillon.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heure Floral Sleisier Watch

　Although it's a model released three years ago in 2022, when I saw the theme "A model that allows you to enjoy the joy of mechanical watches," the first thing that came to mind was the Lady Arpels Heure Florale Cerise watch. Its playful design displays the time based on the number of cerise (cherry blossom) flowers blooming on the dial. The "Poetic Complications" collection, based on the concept of "Poetry of Time," weaves one poetic complication after another onto the dial, incorporating the Maison's renowned enamel and other savoir-faire. I believe this is a literal masterpiece, a culmination of Van Cleef & Arpels's efforts to create this collection.

　There are a total of 12 cherry blossoms blooming on the dial. The idea of ​​expressing the current time by having a flower suddenly bloom on the hour at each hour is truly gorgeous and exciting. Moreover, the flowers that bloom on the hour do not bloom in the same position every time and their number does not increase, but rather at first glance, they appear to bloom randomly in completely different positions on the hour. This is a major reason why this model is both poetic and elegant, and is a masterpiece all its own.

　Behind the elegance of this watch, the maison is developing one complicated mechanism after another that offers gimmicks that other companies would never dream of, even though they call them "poetic complications." This fact makes us realize that Van Cleef & Arpels is not only a top-class high jeweler, but also a rare leader in haute horlogerie.

　The 12 cherry blossoms are rendered with exquisite engraving and enamel techniques, creating a truly dazzling sight. In addition to the 12 cherry blossoms that indicate the time, the dial also depicts cherry blossom buds and butterflies alighting on the blossoms. Beneath the dial, the complex mechanism that controls the opening and closing of the cherry blossoms is made up of 266 gears and 166 other components that are ingeniously distributed, and their exquisite harmony allows the flowers to move in a "random" fashion, almost as if by magic.

　Van Cleef & Arpels has elevated the most basic function of a mechanical watch—to display time—into an excitingly poetic expression. Van Cleef & Arpels' poetic complications always incorporate a dreamy, playful spirit when expressing time, such as the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux watch, which depicts lovers rendezvous on a bridge, and the Lady Arpels Papillon Automata watch, in which a butterfly with enamel wings, encrusted with the sparkle of stained glass-like plique-à-jour, gracefully flutters its wings across the dial.

　These are the masterpieces that I personally pay the most attention to at Watches & Wonders Geneva, which is held in Switzerland every year in early spring.

Jacob & Co. "Bugatti Tourbillon"

　This is a model that allows you to enjoy the pure pleasure of mechanical watches. With its design and mechanism that is full of extravagance in a good sense, Jacob is supported by many watch enthusiasts, from connoisseurs who seek a watch that is different from others, to those in the world of super luxury, and hobbyists who appreciate true high complications.

　Among the collection's unique and original pieces, the Bugatti Tourbillon stands out for its enjoyment of mechanical movement.

　This model is a collaboration between Bugatti and Jacob & Co., inspired by Bugatti's new hypercar, the Bugatti Tourbillon, which has the same model name.

　Jacob & Co. is a brand that exudes a unique presence by presenting various time-related displays, including not only the time but also celestial bodies, in a tricky yet super luxurious way. What makes this model particularly fun is something completely separate from the time display and the related complex mechanisms that affect its accuracy, such as the tourbillon.

　The highlight is the automaton modeled after a Bugatti V16 engine, located in the opening at 6 o'clock on the small dial offset from 12 o'clock to display the time. This is truly a gimmick for the sake of gimmicks; by pressing the push button at 6 o'clock, tiny pistons perform a precise and elaborate reciprocating motion, just like a real engine. The fact that this automaton has nothing to do with displaying the time, but is purely for the enjoyment of its movement, makes it all the more exciting.

　Jacob's generosity and generosity in attempting to recreate the workings of an engine so seriously and precisely shows the freedom and pleasure that can be achieved by true super luxury, freed from the constraints of orthodox mechanical watches, which are destined to display accurate time.

Yuto Hosoda's recommended "mechanical watches"

　The watches recommended by Hosoda Yuto, who has been with the company for eight years, are the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometer FB RES and the Otsuka Low-Tech No. 6.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud "Chronometer FB RES"

　These days, it's much harder than you might think to come up with a reason why you need a mechanical watch. Since mechanical watches are now a hobby, "because I like it" is a valid reason, but you still want to choose a watch that has a compelling reason to some extent. So, I've chosen the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud "Chronometer FB RES," which is packed with gimmicks unique to mechanical watches.

　Until the advent of quartz watches, the only way to create a highly accurate watch was to refine the mechanical movement. This watch fully incorporates the wisdom of our predecessors who sought the high precision of mechanical watches, and has made it possible to achieve this in a compact wristwatch.

　Functions such as the fusee-chain mechanism, the remontoir d'égalité constant-force mechanism, and the Geneva mechanism for winding were undoubtedly developed for mechanical watches powered by mainsprings. It must be truly blissful to enjoy the visual sensation of these mechanisms in action.

　Also, strictly speaking, it may not be something that can be said to be "unique to mechanical watches" (= theoretically this could be achieved with quartz watches as well), but the feel of setting the hands and the quality of the finish are also impeccable, which are the selling points of high-end mechanical watches.

　This is a watch that allows you to enjoy the fun of mechanical watches in every way.I can't possibly buy it though...

Otsuka Lowtec "No. 6"

　Retrograde movements can be achieved with quartz movements, but when it comes to displaying the hours and minutes in retrograde, a mechanical movement is probably a better fit.

　Whether mechanical or quartz, retrograde mechanisms are powered by a module consisting of a snail cam, lever, and return spring, combined with a base movement. This means that even in quartz watches, fine adjustment of the lever is essential, and even strong impacts can cause the zero-reset timing to be thrown off.

　Furthermore, if even the hour and minute hands were to be retrograde, the display scale would have to be set to a fairly large arc for legibility reasons. This would make the design more difficult for a low-torque quartz movement, and would also shorten battery life. It's no wonder that the only quartz watch with a true hour and minute retrograde movement is the Jean-Yves Sectra.

　So far, this is just a case of "there is no benefit to using quartz." It's not a strong reason to choose a mechanical watch. However, (as other editorial staff members have probably said over and over again) this large torque (compared to quartz) is a major advantage of mechanical watches.

　Now, let me show you the long minute hand of the Otsuka Low-Tech No. 6. The hand, which is longer than the radius of the dial, is a design possible only with a retrograde watch that draws an arc, and it is only possible because it is equipped with a powerful mechanical movement.

　Additionally, in the case of No. 6, the character of the watch, which was inspired by a VU meter, makes a mechanical movement a better fit. The font that Jiro Katayama created based on Kodan Gothic, the case design that emphasizes the instrument feel, and the grained finish all suit the analog "engine" design.

Chieko Tsuruoka's recommended "mechanical watches"

　Editor Chieko Tsuruoka recommends Grand Seiko's Heritage Collection 45GS Reissue Design Limited Edition Model and Ulysse Nardin's Blast Tourbillon Freewheel.

Grand Seiko "Heritage Collection 45GS Reissue Design Limited Edition Model"

　Currently, there is little practical benefit to buying a mechanical watch. However, this mechanism has a significant market share and is actually continuing to grow. Each company is putting more effort into expanding their mechanical watch lineup, and is devoting themselves to developing and refining the mechanisms themselves and the designs that these mechanisms can realize.

　Despite the existence of quartz watches, which surpass mechanical watches in terms of performance, mechanical watches have not only not gone out of fashion but are constantly evolving. Such products are rare, and the mere existence of mechanical movements seems to have value. Models that fully utilize this value are surely what truly brings joy to this mechanism. Grand Seiko's "Heritage Collection 45GS Reissue Design Limited Edition," released in 2024, is a prime example. This is because the manual-winding movement, Cal. 9SA4, is a machine that incorporates ingenious features to enhance the sound and feel of winding the mainspring. The act of winding the mainspring is an important part of the charm of mechanical watches (though there are some exceptions, such as models that do not allow owners to wind the mainspring by hand and the existence of Spring Drive). Grand Seiko's new design of the Kohaze (spring lock) was born from the pursuit of this charm. When you actually wind this watch by hand using the crown, you can hear the ticking sound and feel the perfect weight, giving you the feeling that you are breathing life into the watch.

　The Cal. 9SA4 will make its debut at Watches & Wonders Geneva in April 2024. It will be featured in two new models, the "Evolution 9 Collection Hand-Wound Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Model." The crown was designed to be just the right size to maintain the dressy style while still providing a comfortable winding experience (Reference:http://www.webchronos.net/features/116826/The crown of this 45GS reissue design model is easy to operate, but its size does not affect the original atmosphere of the 45GS, and it is a well-thought-out design for the enjoyment of mechanical watches.

　As an aside, there's a reason why we chose this 45GS reissue design model for this project, rather than the "Evolution 9 Collection," which was the first to feature the Caliber 9SA4. The 45GS was launched in 1968, before quartz watches had taken the market by storm, as Grand Seiko's first wristwatch equipped with the Caliber 4520, a high-beat movement with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, and this model is a reissue of that design. This "history" is one of the reasons why we can appreciate the joy of mechanical watches, which have been deeply rooted in people's lives for much longer than quartz watches.

Ulysse Nardin "Blast Tourbillon Freewheel"

Along with "winding the mainspring," another way to emphasize the value of mechanical movements is to "visualize the mechanism." As with the aforementioned Grand Seiko, various brands now have designs that allow the internal movement to be seen through the case back or dial. While there are some quartz movement models that allow this kind of "visibility," mechanical watches are more suited to this design, as you can enjoy watching the balance wheel moving and the barrel rotating as the watch winds.

　The Ulysse Nardin "Blast Tourbillon Freewheel" is a watch that skillfully visualizes this mechanism and incorporates it into its unique design codes. This model features the gear train centered around the barrel on the dial side, as well as a power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock and a flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock, allowing these mechanisms to be viewed through the openwork dial. Another unique feature is that against the black baseplate, each gear appears to be floating, giving the viewer the impression. Another key point is that half of the case is made of sapphire crystal, allowing the mechanism to be viewed from the side as well.

　It's really fun to watch the huge barrel at 12 o'clock rotate.

　Another major highlight is the tourbillon at 6 o'clock. It is a flying tourbillon without a bridge and is equipped with a constant escapement that maintains a constant torque regardless of the amount of winding of the mainspring. The tourbillon, visible alongside the silicon Ulysse anchor that replaces the conventional lever escapement, gives this watch a special feel. Incidentally, tourbillons and constant force mechanisms are, of course, mechanisms unique to mechanical watches. Mechanical watches equipped with complex mechanisms such as perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and chronographs are also full of romance. However, while some complex mechanisms are now realized in quartz movements, for now, tourbillons, where the balance wheel plays a central role, are worthy of enjoying mechanical watches.

　There's another great thing about this watch that makes it so fun. With an ultra-long power reserve of about seven days, it takes quite a while to fully wind the mainspring. This means that compared to models that stop winding quickly, you can enjoy the pleasure of winding the watch using the crown for a longer period of time. This watch also has a crown that is just the right size and easy to operate, so you may find yourself wanting to enjoy this winding experience again and again (but be careful not to overwind it!).

Yosuke Ohashi's recommended "mechanical watches"

　Yosuke Ohashi, who has been with the company for a year, recommends the Seiko Prospex Alpinist and the Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion.

Seiko "Prospex Alpinist"

　Some may think that digital watches have an overwhelming advantage when it comes to outdoor watches. They are shock-resistant so you can survive a fall, and there are plenty of watches with a multitude of convenient features.

　As a quaint retro tool, a mechanical watch can be counted as outdoor gear, just like an oil lantern is used for camping.

　Rather than just looking at it from a hobbyist's perspective, we can also look at it from a more practical perspective. First, it can be used as a simple compass. With the watch held horizontally on the ground and the hour hand pointed in the direction of the sun, the midpoint between the hour hand and the 12 o'clock index points south. Once you know "south," using the inner ring on the Ref. SBDC091 makes it easy to determine other directions.

　Secondly, thanks to the luminous paint, you can tell the time in the dark without turning on the backlight. Digital watch backlights not only drain the battery, but it's also a hassle to have to press a button every time you want to light it up. Even when you're out in the darkness of nature, the backlight ruins the atmosphere. With luminous hands and indexes, you can tell the time just by looking at the dial, and their soft glow won't ruin the natural ambiance.

　The above applies to analog watches, even those with quartz movements. But let's look at the advantages of mechanical watches. It may seem obvious, but they don't require batteries. With a mechanical watch, you won't have to worry about the battery suddenly running out and leaving you stranded in the mountains. As long as you handle the mainspring properly, you'll still know the time and general direction even if you're lost. Even if your watch has advanced functions, it's useless if the battery runs out.

　When you think about it like this, aren't mechanical watches practical enough for outdoor activities? Unless you're doing strenuous mountain climbing, you probably don't need a lot of functions for simple hiking. Enjoy the outdoors with a mechanical watch!

Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion

　Poetry through machines. In the world of mechanical watches, there are highly artistic brands and individuals who challenge the limits of expression through gears and springs. Take MB&F's exquisitely crafted clocks and Hublot's complication models. Urwerk is one of the brands attempting to create poetry using machines.

　When it comes to the poetry of machines, many people in Japan will likely think of the poems of Inagaki Taruho. However, in the United States, the home of mechanization, there was an artist around the 1920s who captured more industrial scenes, such as gears and industrial zones.

　Compared to the works of European Futurists, who also found poetry in machines, the landscapes they focused on give the impression of being brash and even macho, showcasing the rawness of industrial products. Among the artists who figured prominently were Louis Lozowick and Charles Sheeler, as well as Margaret Bourke-White, who made a name for herself as a photographer for Life magazine.

　How does this poetry of machinery link with Urwerk watches? The UR-150 Scorpion, mentioned here, is a model with an elegant and refined streamlined case, even among Urwerk's models, and it gives off an impression somewhat removed from the ruggedness of machinery.

　However, the satellite mechanism installed in this model is a "bare mechanism." The minute hand of the retrograde display returns to zero at a speed of 1/100th of a second when it reaches 60 minutes. Because the minute hand is part of the satellite hour mechanism, this mechanism itself rotates dynamically. This is a watch that allows you to feel the poetry of the machine. Only a mechanical movement with high torque can achieve such dynamic movement.