Cartier is hugely popular among people of all genders and ages. There are many reasons for this: "Purveyor to royalty and nobility," "good brand image," "high quality." However, the main reason is undoubtedly the excellent design. Let's explore the appeal of Cartier's unique yet versatile design through the Santos and Tank. There's a clear reason why these have become classics loved by everyone.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 20, 2025]
A surprise interview with the editors-in-chief of two major watch magazines at a famous Cartier store
A popular video project by Masamasa Hirota, editor-in-chief of Chronos Japan, and Masaru Sekiguchi, editor-in-chief of Hodinkee Japan. This time, the editors-in-chief of two major watch magazines, both of whom are huge Cartier fans, visited a long-established watch shop that stocks Cartier.
[Interview video URL]
https://youtu.be/4IFdPq2slbo
Video content
Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota visited the COMMON TIME Yokohama Motomachi Main Store in Kanagawa Prefecture and had a conversation with Kotaro Tanaka, CEO of CHARMY, the store's operating company. They had a lively discussion on the theme of "Cartier and sex appeal."
Editor-in-Chief Sekiguchi Masaru visited two stores: "HASSIN" in Aichi Prefecture and "Kamine Tor Road Main Store" in Hyogo Prefecture. At HASSIN, Executive Vice President Kafuri Kamiya spoke about customers' love for Cartier, as well as her memories of Cartier with her father, founder Yoshihiro Kamiya.
At the Kamine Tor Road flagship store, we spoke with Kamine's president and CEO, Toru Uene. Of the three stores featured here, Kamine has been handling Cartier for the longest time, so don't miss the many stories he shares.
Diverse designs expand the possibilities of Cartier watches
When it comes to watch design, circles are the norm. Cartier was the one that challenged this conventional wisdom. The Santos, which is said to have been created in 1904, was a model with a square case and fixed lugs for attaching the strap. The Tank, released in 1916, also featured a square case inspired by the design of a tank.
Nowadays, non-round cases are commonplace, but at the time, there were restrictions on how cases could be made, so it was extremely difficult to create a non-round case. This unconventional design was possible only because Cartier had a history of making jewelry.
"Santos" with its multipurpose character
The Santos is said to be the world's first mass-produced wristwatch. Its successor is the Santos de Cartier. Its design, in which the lugs that fasten the strap are integrated into the case, can be said to have had a major influence on all subsequent wristwatches.
The reason for this design was that the client, Santos-Dumont, requested that he be able to see the time while piloting an airship or airplane. By integrating the lugs into the case, the strap would not come off easily. In other words, the Santos can be said to be a pioneer of sports watches.
The Santos de Cartier: a versatile watch that can be worn in any situation
The Santos can be considered a pioneer of sports watches. The Santos de Cartier emphasizes this character. Although it looks large, it fits comfortably on the wrist. This is due to the watch's short overall length and case thickness, which is less than 10mm.
The Santos de Cartier was released in 2018. Its design is modeled after the 1978 Santos Galbee, but it features a high-quality in-house case and bracelet, as well as a highly efficient, anti-magnetic in-house automatic movement. Despite being water-resistant to 10 bar, the case is just 9.08mm thick, comparable to a dress watch. The bracelet and strap can be easily swapped, making it suitable for any occasion. Automatic movement (Cal. 1847MC). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold case (47.5mm x 39.8mm, 9.08mm thick). Water-resistant to 10 bar. Price: ¥1,848,000 (tax included).
Another major feature of this model is the ease of reading the time. Cartier's signature Roman numeral indices are condensed vertically, but still have enough width to make it easy to read the time. Additionally, the five-minute markers are highlighted, allowing you to accurately read the time down to the minute.
However, Cartier's cleverness lies in not leaning towards sportiness. By deliberately giving the bezel that holds the crystal a glossy finish, it gives a different impression to sports watches. The hands are also much thinner than those of sports watches. It is sporty, but that is by no means all that is the appeal of the Santos de Cartier.
Automatic winding. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 48 hours. Stainless steel case (47.5mm x 40.2mm, 10.01mm thick). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,452,000 yen (tax included).
The Santos de Cartier also offers a dual-time display, allowing you to see the time at a glance. To emphasize its tool watch look, the dial is gray and the hands are luminous.
The metallic indices in this watch are what really show Cartier's skill. Matching the dial and indices in the same color creates a sense of unity in the design, but makes it difficult to read the time. So Cartier made the indices three-dimensional, making it easier to tell the time.
Manual-winding (Cal. 9612 MC). 20 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18K yellow gold case (47.5mm x 39.8mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 11,022,000 yen (tax included).
Another technique that Cartier specializes in is hollowing out the movement to create a skeleton. Normally, when making a watch of this type, an existing movement is modified, but for the sake of design, Cartier has gone to the trouble of creating a movement from scratch, emphasizing the "openness" of the watch.
What is noteworthy about the Ref. WHSA0042 is the Roman numeral indexes. By using these as the base that supports the movement, the movement appears even cleaner.
Dressy yet playful: Santos-Dumont
The Santos collection is designed to be suitable for a variety of situations, and the Santos-Dumont is the most dressy of the bunch.
This watch has a unique Cartier feel. By deliberately leaving parts of the case and strap matte, it gives off an impression that is different from your average dress watch. Although it is a dress watch, the elements that make it a "universal watch" are not lost. The strap is slim, but by not making it too slim, it has a design that suits both men and women. Manual winding (Cal. 430 MC). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 18KRG case (46.6mm x 36.9mm, 7.5mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 2,653,200 yen (tax included).
The design is based on the Santos de Cartier, but the case is thinner and the design is slimmer to go with a suit or dress.
However, unlike ordinary dress watches, it has a sporty element that is characteristic of Cartier. Even though it is a dress watch, Cartier never makes it ordinary. The Ref. WSSA0046, which is boldly designed in monochrome, is a symbol of this.
Manual winding (Cal. 430 MC). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (43.5mm x 31.4mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 957,000 yen (tax included).
The case appears black because it was carved and then black lacquer was poured into it. The dial is also black, and the indices are silver, further emphasizing the monotone look. Currently, Cartier is the only manufacturer in the world that uses the method of pouring lacquer into the case for mass-produced models. Perhaps for this reason, this watch is extremely popular, and it is said to be difficult to obtain.
What's interesting is the treatment of the hands. Unlike the Santos de Cartier, the hands are deliberately void of luminous paint. This is Cartier's assertion that this is a dress watch. The movement is the masterpiece hand-wound movement, Cal. 430 MC.
"Tank" utilizes the techniques unique to high jewelers
Cartier's Tank was inspired by the tanks that were used in World War I. Its square design and extremely thick strap, given the case size, are certainly reminiscent of the Tank. This design was made possible because Cartier was a jeweler.
At the time, watch cases were made by carving round bar stock. Therefore, round case designs were the standard. Cartier, on the other hand, achieved unique shapes by welding together square parts. The technique of making cases from plates rather than bar stock is unique to jewelers.
However, due to this elaborate construction, production was very limited and it was difficult to make the watch waterproof, but after Cartier started making the cases and bracelets in-house, they were able to make the watch waterproof while keeping the original shape.
The Tank Louis Cartier, which inherits the design of the past
The Tank classic is the Tank Louis Cartier with its rectangular case. The design was completed in the 1930s, but perhaps the power of the design is that it still looks timeless today. However, the design has been meticulously revised.
Manual-winding (Cal. 1917 MC). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. 18KRG case (33.7 x 25.5 mm, 6.6 mm thick). Water resistant to 30 meters. Price: 2,059,200 yen (tax included).
For example, the indices have been made slightly thicker, and the top and bottom of the case that supports the crystal have also been made slightly thicker. By making the frame a little thicker, it adds a modern touch. The thick indices have another advantage: they make it easier to read the time even when choosing a smaller size model.
These are typical Cartier designs, offering the same style for both men and women. The rounded case also makes the watch more suitable for women.
The Tank Louis Cartier color dial model is simpler
The Tank Louis Cartier has a square shape. This is further emphasized by the colored dial of the Tank Louis Cartier. The dial deliberately omits the indices and only displays the CARTIER logo, a testament to the confidence the brand has in its design.
The watch's excellent quality is also worth mentioning. The lacquered dial has a flat surface to match the distortion-free mirror-like case.
Normally, glossy dials make it difficult to read the time. Cartier, on the other hand, has made the hands slightly thicker and more three-dimensional, making them easier to read. It is precisely because of the simplicity that Cartier's attention to detail stands out.
Manual-winding (Cal. 1917 MC). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. 18KRG case (33.7 x 25.5 mm, 6.6 mm thick). Water resistant to 30 meters. Price: 2,059,200 yen (tax included).
There's a Cartier that's sure to suit you.
The interesting thing about Cartier is that, with the exception of a few watches, they are designed to be worn by both men and women. Take the Tank Louis for example. By making the bold design slightly rounder, it looks natural on women.
Also, even with the smaller models, the balance of the indexes and hands is the same as with the larger models, so it doesn't give the impression that you're wearing a watch for women.
What's more, the basic design of the models listed here has remained unchanged for over 100 years, meaning that Cartier watches look good on anyone, no matter how old they are.
As proof of this, old Cartier women's pieces are becoming popular in the antique market. The reason is that they are used by both men and women. Where else in the world can you find a manufacturer that has continued to create designs for everyone like this?
