The Omega Constellation is one of the most extreme "industrial" watches (a self-proposed concept) [Wearing Review]

Shun Horiuchi, a watch enthusiast and watch writer, gives his impressions of the Omega Constellation. There are many variations of the Constellation, and this time we will be looking at a model with a 41mm stainless steel case and a meteorite dial. From his unique perspective as an "industrial watch (mechanical watch)," he will unravel the details of this watch.

Omega Constellation Wear Review

　In writing this review, I first took some photos under the sunlight of a beautiful winter day, while also carefully examining the scratches, and I thought to myself, "Isn't this the pinnacle of modern "industrial" mechanical watches, which are only possible through rigorous design and a highly controlled production system?"

What is an “industrial” mechanical watch?

　Mechanical watches—with a history spanning more than four centuries—are considered to be one of mankind's first portable devices. The evolution of mechanical watches can be seen as being in line with the development of precision metalworking technology, and as we all know, in the process, manual processing has gradually been replaced by machines.

　Now, before the quartz revolution, the minimum performance required of watches was "high enough precision to withstand practical use as a daily necessity," and the products released on the market varied greatly in terms of the materials used and quality. Since the quartz revolution, unfortunately, the precision achieved by mechanical watches has rarely been on a par with that of quartz watches. While they still guarantee practical precision, especially since the 1990s, the era has shifted to one in which mechanical watches are enjoyed as a hobby or are owned as a status symbol. Given this background, I consider the significance of mechanical watches and their potential qualities to be broadly divided into those before and after the quartz revolution.

　The Omega Constellation featured in this article is, of course, a post-quartz mechanical wristwatch. Since the quartz revolution, especially in the 2000s, marketing that emphasized values ​​such as "Swiss Made" and "handcrafted" has become mainstream among mechanical watchmakers. In this environment, Omega and Rolex can be said to be watchmakers that have placed emphasis on practicality, although the characteristics of their watches naturally vary depending on the model.

　It goes without saying that accuracy is extremely important when it comes to the practical use of a wristwatch, and in today's world where we are surrounded by electronic devices, magnetic resistance is also essential. For many people, being a product of a well-known, prestigious brand is also an important factor, and it goes without saying that the watch must have a design and quality that lives up to the brand name.

　The Constellation is one watch that combines these elements to the fullest extent possible using modern technology.

　In other words, the processing quality of each metal part has been raised to a considerable level by machining centers, and extremely homogeneous parts such as silicon hairsprings and balance wheels are used, so everything that makes up this watch gives the impression of the pinnacle of high-level modern technology.

　This model is a first-class industrial product, not only in practical terms such as its precision, but also in terms of its extremely high-quality exterior and movement. Naturally, this would not have been possible without the capital resources to apply the vast amount of watchmaking know-how and technology built on history.

　Handwork produces craftsmanship and has a certain flavor. The flavor that comes from factors that are difficult to put into words, such as fluctuations and unevenness, can be seen as the value of handwork. On the other hand, Omega has eliminated these to the utmost extent, creating watches like this model that reach the pinnacle of homogenization. In this article, we will arbitrarily refer to these as "industrial watches (mechanical watches)."

Machining has produced a complete group of metal parts with no flaws.

　As usual, let's start by looking at the exterior.

　The meteorite dial is the first thing that catches your eye, but what amazes me even more is the precision of the processing of the bezel, case, bracelet, and buckle. For example, the sides of the case and the area where the case joins the bracelet have subtle curves, striking a contrast with the flatness of the lugs, which have an intricate satin finish.

　The edges of the case side where the "C" has been removed are not flat like diamond cuts, but have a subtle curved polish, like the facets of the bridges on movements made by the highest class. Perhaps this part is machine-made and then hand-polished? The claws on the bezel side, a characteristic of the Constellation, also have a beautiful polished finish, and are made by fitting separate parts together.

　The bracelet is seamlessly connected to the case via a slender center link, creating a beautiful contrast between the polished finish of the center link and the hairline of the links. The satin finish of the case resembles a ground surface, and although the finish is different from the hairline of the bracelet, the overall light reflectivity is similar, creating a sense of unity. This level of balance is truly impressive. The buckle is also exquisitely finished and has a one-touch fine adjustment mechanism, making it more than comfortable. Furthermore, since it comes with two half links, the ability to adjust not only the overall length of the bracelet but also the ideal position of the buckle is truly a design that takes the user into consideration.

　The crown has a soft design without any edges, which is appropriate for the image of the Constellation. Because the movement is automatic, the crown operation is generally only required to set the time and adjust the hour hand, but as long as the movement does not stop, the watch maintains incredible accuracy, so the crown operation is almost free.

　The surface of the crown is embossed with a polished "Ω," and the surface appears to have been sandblasted. It is unclear whether the Ω was masked before sandblasting, or whether the embossed portion was polished after sandblasting, but it is clear that a painstaking finish has been applied.

　The bezel is made of black ceramic, and the Roman numerals are inlaid with liquid metal. Finally, the entire surface of the bezel is polished, resulting in a flawless, aesthetically pleasing finish. The sapphire crystal appears flat at first glance, but is subtly domed. The inside face of the crystal is unusually black, creating a sense of continuity with the bezel and complementing the black indexes and hands for a refined look.

　The meteorite dial, a distinctive feature of this model, is a natural product, making it unique and unique. Its unique texture, resembling both stone and a metallic sheen, is a fascinating tale. The meteorite enthusiasts are quite numerous around the world. The Muoniorsta meteorite is believed to be used on the dial of this model. While meteorites are primarily found in Namibia and northern Sweden, this particular meteorite is likely from the latter. While obtaining such a meteorite can be done through a broker, it's also possible to use online portals where meteorite enthusiasts trade, and it's even easy to find it on eBay. However, it's easy to imagine the need for some strategy to acquire a large quantity.

　The indices on the dial, as well as the "★" markings that represent the origin of the names Omega, Omega, and Constellation, are all applied in black PVD. Because the bezel features Roman numerals, numbers cannot be used for the dial indices. Therefore, wedge-shaped indices are used, creating a natural overall design. The Constellation, CO-AXIAL, and MASTER CHRONOMETER inscriptions are so precise and clear that they resemble the metal seals of Tefco Aomori. All three hands are finished in a lustrous black PVD for high legibility. The second hand reaches just beyond the outer edge of the indices, while the minute hand is slightly shorter, reaching the middle of the minute markers, in line with theory. The tips of the hands are straight, not curved. Personally, I see no need to forcibly bend a completely flat dial.

　The case back is made of sapphire crystal, allowing you to see the Master Chronometer-certified Caliber 8900. The sapphire crystal glass is surrounded by a polished bezel with six-point holes, indicating that it is a screw-back. The case is 13.4mm thick, which is a bit thick for a dress watch, but considering the 41mm diameter, it is still within reasonable limits.

　The Constellation's design has no lugs and is connected directly to the bracelet, so you might think it would be unstable when worn on the wrist, but it's not. This is probably because the bracelet is just the right thickness and has a reasonable amount of weight. However, it is a heavyweight watch, weighing 172g with full links (153g with three links and two small links removed to fit my wrist), and as I have thin wrists, I tend to wear it tightly, restricting movement. Therefore, the fine adjustment mechanism on the buckle is a welcome feature, and I adjusted it quite frequently during my use to ensure comfort.

The pinnacle of the "industrial" movement

　I strongly feel that the Cal. 8900 mounted in this model is a mechanical movement that has been perfected in this modern age and is extremely user-friendly for everyday use. There are many reasons for this, and I will list them starting with what I consider to be the most important.

Five Benefits of Cal.8900

　First of all, the accuracy. After wearing it for two days, the accuracy was an astonishing ±0 seconds. After wearing it continuously for a little over a week, the cumulative accuracy over seven days was 7 seconds. Honestly, it's a bit of an exaggeration to say that it's comparable to a quartz watch, but I've never seen a mechanical watch this accurate and useful for everyday use in my entire life as a watch geek. I can confidently say that Master Chronometer certification is the culmination of modern technology such as a silicon balance spring and silicon balance wheel, parts with extremely precise machining that minimize variation, proper design and assembly, and the vast know-how required for that.

　Next, it's anti-magnetic, even though the movement is visible through the case back. Of course, this is the result of using non-magnetic materials such as silicon parts, and not having to worry about magnetic objects around you in your daily life is very good for your mental health.

　Third, the double barrel provides a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. This ensures that the watch will run smoothly over the weekend, even if you take it off your wrist on Friday night and put it back on Monday morning. Approximately 48 hours is not enough. The half-day power reserve extension significantly reduces the chances of the watch stopping.

　The fourth feature is the time zone function, which allows the hour hand to be moved forward or backward in one-hour increments by pulling the crown out one notch. There are no prohibited time periods for this function, and it can be adjusted in either direction without worrying about the timing of the date change. This is very convenient when traveling abroad, as many users will adjust the time to the local time after boarding, and at that time it is possible to move the hour hand back across the date. The same is true when returning home. However, we have heard from experts in the maintenance field that using this mechanism too frequently tends to cause malfunctions, so it is best to keep it to a minimum.

　The fifth feature is the coaxial escapement, which Omega claims extends the interval between overhauls. While not necessarily maintenance-free, it offers the benefit of longer maintenance intervals compared to typical mechanical watches.

"An exceptionally easy-to-use movement"

　These beauties of the Caliber 8900 are, once again, the result of extremely precise machining, resulting in uniform parts. Therefore, scratches reveal little human intervention. The distinctive decoration, officially called the arabesque Geneva wave, is precisely reproduced by milling. However, subtle variations in this milling make it appear to the naked eye as if it were handcrafted. The chamfers are perfectly diamond-cut, and the flat Cs are machine-finished to a crisp, mirror-like shine. Upon closer inspection, the inscriptions such as "BARREL ONE" and "TWO" are inked in red, matching the red of the ruby. The screws are made of polished silver stainless steel and dark brown, and while not the most precisely flat, the screw heads are well polished.

　The movement's spacers are black to avoid being conspicuous, and the balance wheel, also dark brown and relatively large compared to the movement size, operates at a characteristic frequency of 7.5 vibrations per second. Of course, it is free-sprung.

　As I have written above, the Cal. 8900 has many advantages, including the overwhelming accuracy mentioned above, and its excellent features make it an unparalleled movement that is easy to use on a daily basis.

A highly refined "industrial" watch

　This is my impression of the Omega Constellation. Some might say that this quality is to be expected, considering the watch itself costs nearly 150 million yen. However, I was very surprised at how refined the new Constellation is.

　This watch is flawless in every respect and is of such high quality that I can confidently recommend it to anyone.