Martin Green, a watch editor and writer for the US edition of WatchTime, reviews the Orient Star M45 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding. Skeleton watches often prioritize design, making it difficult to read the time and making people wonder if they're losing sight of the true essence of a wristwatch. This Orient Star watch achieves two seemingly contradictory elements simultaneously: a captivating skeleton design and easy-to-read time. See the true power of Orient, the third son of the Japanese watch industry!
A skeleton watch commemorating the brand's 70th anniversary
In 2021, Orient celebrated the 70th anniversary of the Orient Star brand with the launch of the M45 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding, an evolution of the brand's signature skeleton watch. Orient Star is Orient's flagship collection, a subsidiary of Seiko Epson, and has been around since 1951.
The watch we reviewed this time is an overseas model, so the strap specifications are slightly different. Manual winding (Cal. F8B62). 22 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38.8 mm, thickness 10.6 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 352,000 yen (tax included).
The "skeleton watch" is an important design that characterizes the current Orient Star, and even more so, Orient itself. Orient's first skeleton watch, the "Mon Bijou," was released in 1991. 2021 marked the double anniversary of Orient skeleton watches.
The power reserve is also worth noting. The movement used in this model, Cal. F8B62, has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Amazingly, this coincides with Orient's 70th anniversary. The previous model, Cal. 48E52, had a power reserve of approximately 50 hours, so this is a significant improvement. The vibration frequency is 21,600 vibrations per hour. The power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock allows you to see how much power is remaining, which is a nice touch.
I believe that Orient's signature "skeleton design" is a way to highlight the various positive aspects of its prized mechanical movement. The Cal. F8B62 movement is full of highlights. There are many technical aspects to note, but there are also many design aspects that are noteworthy.
A successful example of a highly legible skeleton watch
Making a skeleton watch is not that difficult, but creating a well-designed skeleton watch is another matter entirely. Orient Star has taken the difficult path when it came to designing a skeleton watch, and they've succeeded.
It is the juxtaposition of contradictory elements. Specifically, it is robust, yet allows the viewer to see the inside of the movement, and at the same time, it utilizes decorative techniques and ensures legibility. And it is not just a success; it is a refined and accomplished achievement.
The scale is a separate part to ensure visibility
Skeleton watches are often said to be difficult to read. However, that is not the case with the M45 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding. Why? Because the power reserve and small seconds scales on the dial are separate parts, ensuring visibility. The same can be said for the Orient Star logo at 3 o'clock.
The outer crosshatched ring is decorated with a railroad minute track printed with an octopus print and stainless steel hour markers, which are exquisitely finished and shimmer with the inherent color of the material when light hits them.
Exquisitely balanced meat removal
The movement is skeletonized, but not overly so. The baseplate appears to have been minimally hollowed out, not for sturdiness, but to allow for circular graining. The edges of the baseplate are chamfered, and the way they reflect light is captivating.
The blue hands reflect light well, adding an accent to this watch. Inside the movement, you can also find blue parts. This is a silicon escape wheel, created using Epson's MEMS processing technology. It's here that you can see Epson's proud technology.
Every detail has been carefully thought out
Japanese people are known for their perfectionism and the effort they put into achieving it. This spirit is also evident in this watch. One example is the high-precision anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal, which minimizes light interference when viewing the movement or checking the time.
Additionally, Orient has also put all their effort into the case finishing. The top-of-the-line Orient Star models are polished with Zaratsu polishing, and the finish is very similar to that of Grand Seiko's Zaratsu polishing.
Orient seems to have paid close attention to the proportions of this watch: the case measures 38.8mm in diameter and 10.6mm thick, a classic size ratio that will fit comfortably on any wrist.
The crown gives you an idea of the overall quality of the watch.
The M45 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding is a manual-winding model. The feel of winding the crown is the first step to enjoying the unique characteristics of this watch. The crown is a little small, but it is easy to grip and turns smoothly with just the right amount of resistance.
If you're curious, try pulling the crown and you'll see that it has a mechanism to stop the balance so you can adjust it down to the second.
Pay close attention to the back cover as well
The case back is clean and reveals the high-end, traditionally laid out Caliber 8B62. The movement finish seen through the case back is also excellent. The Orient "Geneva stripes" give the movement a play of light and a sense of depth.
Silver color model also available
Manual winding (Cal. F8B62). 22 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38.8 mm, thickness 10.6 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 352,000 yen (tax included).
The M45 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding featured here is a champagne-colored model, but there is also a silver-colored model, which has a slightly more modern feel.
