Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk and designer Martin Frey visited Japan to celebrate the reopening of the Hourglass Ginza store. The company has become an authorized distributor and has begun selling Urwerk products.
Photograph by Yu Mitamura
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
"We are pioneers among independent watchmakers"
Co-founder of Urwerk. Founded Urwerk in 1997. Starting with the first model, the UR-101, the company has gained a passionate fan base with its unique time display and high-quality timepieces that go beyond the boundaries of an independent watchmaker. "We've known each other for over 30 years, so we bounce ideas off each other like we're playing ping-pong," says Baumgartner. Starting in 2022, the company is increasing its recognition among a wider audience with the entry-level model, the UR-100.
"Ulwerk was sold at Hour Glass in Singapore, so we wondered why it wasn't sold in Japan as well. We hope that Hour Glass Ginza will be the final destination for Urwerk." (Felix Baumgartner)
Although Urwerk is an extremely niche brand, it has steadily gained fans since its founding.
"The brand began in 1997, and from 2003 to 2010 it became multidimensional as its next phase. Then, from 2010 onwards, it was in an electromagnetic direction. The next chapter began with the UR-100, which was released in 2022. This is an entry-level model with a smaller case and more elegance."
The new product they have brought to the table is the UR-150, which combines a satellite system with a 240-degree retrograde minute hand.
"The design of the UR-150 started with the case design. With the UR-100, the frame got in the way and prevented the movement from being fully displayed. So we considered what was necessary to show off the movement, and what was not. We also added curves to the entire watch to give it beauty and continuity. The retrograde minute display, which returns to zero using a flyback mechanism, also moves like a storm is rising. We named it Scorpion because it resembles a scorpion stinging with its stinger" (Martin Frey). It is Urwerk's maturity that has made it possible to express things more than ever before.
This is Urwerk's latest creation, a watch that has pursued unique time displays. The minute retrograde hand moves 240° and returns to zero in 1/100th of a second. It rotates 240° along with the hour satellite disc that indicates the hour. When the minute retrograde hand returns to zero from 60 minutes, it rotates another 240° along with the disc indicating the next hour. Automatic winding (Cal. UR-50.01). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 43 hours. Titanium case (52.31mm x 42.49mm, 14.79mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. Price: ¥17,556,000 (tax included).
"Three or four years ago, we changed the base movement from Sowind to one made by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. What's more, this is a special specification that we created in collaboration with our engineers. Not only did we change the mainspring to increase the torque of the barrel, but we also made changes to the automatic winding mechanism. As a result, the minute retrograde now moves at 240 degrees instead of the previous 120 degrees. The flyback is controlled by our own hairspring, which we make in our workshop in Zurich."
Despite this success, Urwerk continues to take an increasingly edgy approach. Why?
"Other companies are making all sorts of things, so there's no reason for us to do the same thing. We are pioneers among independent watchmakers. We were founded before FP Journe, de Bethune, Vianney Halter, and others. So we always want to be pioneers and push the boundaries." (Felix Baumgartner)
