German company Leica has been in the watch business since 2018. Their latest model, the Leica ZM 12, was released in March 2025. Managing Director Henrik Ekdahl visited Japan to unveil the new Leica ZM 12. An event was held for the company's customers, and we'll report on it along with the new model.
Text by Chieko Tsuruoka(Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 26, 2025]
Leica announces new watch, the Leica ZM 12!
Did you know that Leica, the German brand known for producing high-quality cameras, also sells watches?
In June 2018, the company announced the Leica L1 and Leica L2. These models, which feature a push-button crown inspired by a camera's shutter button, combine practicality with the "fun of operation."
The Leica ZM 1 features a crown equipped with a push button. This push button is a function selector, allowing you to alternate between winding the mainspring and setting the time with each press. When setting the time, the second hand is also reset to zero. A small window next to the hour and minute hands allows you to check the currently selected function, and the push button at 2 o'clock allows you to fast-forward the date, making it a convenient addition. Manual winding (Cal. L1). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 14.5mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 1,562,000 yen (tax included).
The Leica ZM 2 adds a dual time function to the Leica ZM 1. The second time zone display can be changed by operating the inner bezel with the crown at 4 o'clock. Manual winding (Cal. L2). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 14.5mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 2,178,000 yen (tax included).
The Leica L1 and Leica L2, renamed the Leica ZM 1 and Leica ZM 2, are still the driving forces behind the company's watch business. Equipped with a hand-wound movement developed in collaboration with Lehmann Precision Würren, the pushers and crown were designed for ease of operation (according to our editorial staff member, Hosoda Taketo, who is also a camera enthusiast, the feel is similar to that of the pushers on an M-type Leica), these watches were coveted by enthusiasts, especially Leica collectors.
In order to reach a wider audience, the Leica ZM 11 watch was launched in 2023, and the new Leica ZM 12 is based on the Leica ZM 11, achieving a compact size and minimalist design.
Automatic movement (Cal. Leica LA-3002). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 100m. 1,001,000 yen (tax included). Straps are sold separately: (from left) Clou de Paris orange strap for 110,000 yen, rubber strap for 86,900 yen (both tax included). Only the Blue Orange version is scheduled to be released in April 2025.
Automatic movement (Cal. Leica LA-3002). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 100m. 1,001,000 yen (tax included). Stainless steel bracelet sold separately for 181,500 yen (tax included).
Automatic movement (Cal. Leica LA-3002). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Ti case (diameter 39mm, thickness 13mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,078,000 yen (tax included). Fabric strap sold separately for 118,800 yen (tax included).
There are four types of Leica ZM 12 released: three stainless steel models with blue orange, silver gray, and olive black dials, and one titanium model with a chocolate black dial. All Leica ZM 11 and Leica ZM 12 models are equipped with the Easy Change system, which allows you to attach and remove straps without tools, so users can enjoy a variety of combinations by purchasing bracelets and straps sold separately.
The movement used is the Chronode automatic movement, Leica LA-3002. It has a simple three-hand movement and no calendar display. The power reserve is approximately 60 hours. Combined with water resistance to 100m, this is a highly practical and easy-to-use watch.
"Leica Watch Event" held to coincide with the release of the "Leica ZM 12"
To coincide with the unveiling of the Leica ZM 12 in Japan, a "Leica Watch Event" was held at a location in Marunouchi, Tokyo, to which Leica customers and media were invited.
On display at the venue were four models of the newly released Leica ZM 12, four models of the Leica ZM 11, the Leica ZM 1, the Leica ZM 2, and the Leica ZM 1 Monochrom and Leica ZM 2 Monochrom, which are all-black versions of the Leica ZM 1 and Leica ZM 2.
All the actual devices are touch and feel OK. By actually holding them in my hands, I was once again amazed at the high level of perfection of Leica watches, including the Leica ZM 12.
The Leica ZM 12 is amazing!
I immediately picked up the Leica ZM 12, which was on display at the venue. The case is 39mm in diameter and 13mm thick, and has no lugs, making it compact, yet its round shape is unique.
On the other hand, as you would expect from Leica, which has established a position in the camera market as a manufacturer of "cameras that people aspire to," the end pieces and bracelet have no sharp edges and feel pleasant against the skin. Also, while the satin-finished case and bracelet give it a tool-like feel, the edges are polished, giving it a more refined impression than the Leica ZM 11, which has an overall matte finish.
The dial is also a major highlight of this model. It has a two-layer structure that has been inherited from the Leica ZM 11 but has been evolved, with the subdial for the small seconds at 6 o'clock and the dial itself being manufactured separately, resulting in a minimalist yet profound finish.
The dial is lacquered and embossed with a sunray and horizontal stripe decoration. When you move the watch, the lines of light run through it and the shades of color change, making it an endless sight. Incidentally, the changing expression of the dial is said to represent "the fascinating play of light and shadow, one of the elements of photography."
All colors feature elegant, deep dials, with soft, rather than vivid, colors that stand out. Each dial takes about three weeks to create, including decoration, lacquering, and polishing. While the watch has a minimalist, classic style with no date and small seconds, the dial alone is unique, showcasing Leica's watchmaking prowess.
Looking at the case back, you can see that there are red buttons attached to the end pieces at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Pressing these buttons allows the strap to be released with a click, enabling the easy-change function. The strap can be attached and detached with a satisfying click, demonstrating the high precision of the parts' machining. As mentioned above, the movement is made by Chronode, and the dial is marked SWISS MADE, but the supplier that manufactures the exterior is a German manufacturer.
The Leica ZM 12 will be available for sale at Leica stores nationwide and at the Leica online store.
Being able to operate the actual device and hear directly from the employees is something that can only be done at an event. However, as mentioned above, the device will be sold nationwide, so camera enthusiasts and watch enthusiasts alike should definitely go and see it for themselves.
Presentation by Henrik Ekdahl
To coincide with this event, Henrik Ekdahl, Global Managing Director of Ernst Leitz-Werckstatten GmbH (ELW), which handles Leica's watch and accessories division, visited Japan and gave a presentation on Leica's entry into the watch business, its history, and new collections.
What was interesting about Ekdahl's story was that Leica's history is closely intertwined with watches. Leica's founder, Ernst Leitz I, traveled to Switzerland to study fine mechanics and learn how to make watches. Having learned metal parts processing and mass production techniques, Leitz I applied these skills to the manufacture of microscopes after returning to Wetzlar, Germany. Given this history, it was only natural that a company that had achieved success in manufacturing small precision cameras would enter the watch business. In 2015, the company began full-scale watch manufacturing under the slogan "Leica on the wrist," which culminated in the launch of the Leica ZM 1 and Leica ZM 2 in 2018.
After the presentation, there was a free interaction session, including a chance to experience the touch and feel of Leica watches. Ekdahl was seen chatting with the customers, and we had the opportunity to hear directly about the products and Leica's brand strategy. What made the most impression on me was Leica's "future." Leica is not just a manufacturer of cameras and watches, but is also involved in a wide range of businesses, including sports optics like binoculars and smartphone-related products. Ekdahl said, "We will expand (these businesses) with cameras as the core. Watches are one of the areas we will expand into." These words give us hope that Leica watches will continue to expand and that even more interesting new models will be released.
An event where it was fun to interact with Leica enthusiasts
This event was open to both press and customers. So, I apologize for talking about something personal, but it was a very enjoyable experience for me to be able to interact with camera enthusiasts, who I don't usually get to meet. While the focus was primarily on wristwatches, there were many similarities between the two, and I learned a lot.
During the event, a photography class was also held by Christian Dowling, a photographer who also serves as a training manager and strategic consultant for the watch division. He gave detailed explanations on lighting techniques and other topics, which made me want to start using a camera myself.
As a maker of extraordinary watches
In 2025, we reported on our participation in the unveiling event for Leica's newly released "Leica ZM 12."
Leica, which has previously focused on collections aimed at core enthusiasts, has now released a new collection aimed at a wider range of users. However, this is by no means a budget version of a previous Leica watch; it is a new wristwatch with an exceptionally well-crafted exterior. The fact that a manufacturer that does not specialize in watches can create such sophisticated new watches is likely due to the fact that, as Henrik Ekdahl stated, watchmaking and camera manufacturing have much in common.
We encourage all watch enthusiasts to try out the actual models from this collection. Their exquisite workmanship will surely whet your desire to own one, and you'll no doubt be excited to see what Leica's future watch business will bring.
