For 150 years, Audemars Piguet has pursued innovation in both mechanics and design. Their uncompromising approach to watchmaking continues to this day, as they continue to release numerous fascinating models. Here, we will introduce some of Audemars Piguet's most iconic pieces, focusing on current models, from the five core collections that form the brand's current core.
Styling by Eiji Ishikawa (TRS)
Text by Katsuyuki Tanaka (Atelier ADJET), Mitsuru Shibata
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
The Royal Oak: A Revolution in Luxury Watchmaking
It all began with a phone call from Audemars Piguet. They asked him to design a steel sports watch unlike any other before. The deadline was the next morning, already 4pm. What's amazing is that Gérald Genta managed to accomplish this impossible task in just one night. The finished sketch remained largely unchanged, and the watch was released two years later in 1972. The Royal Oak was born.
However, its innovative design, featuring a multifaceted bezel and integrated bracelet, was extremely difficult to achieve with the machining technology of the time. This caused manufacturing costs to soar, to the point that at the time of its release it was more expensive than a gold watch. The Cal. 2121 movement it contained was 3.05mm thin, but still 28mm in diameter, and the case had to be enlarged to ensure water resistance. As a result, it was nicknamed "Jumbo." Despite its unconventionality, the Royal Oak was well received. It was supported by a younger generation dissatisfied with old-fashioned luxury watches, and it brought about a revolution in luxury watches.
The Royal Oak will be redesigned in 2022, celebrating its 50th anniversary. In addition to the logo on the dial, minor updates such as revised lug shape and thicker bracelet links have also improved the fit. Automatic movement (Cal. 4302). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 10.5mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 4,125,000 yen (tax included).
For over half a century, advanced technology has been poured into the watch, improving precision and reliability while maintaining the basic design. Some models use 200 to 648 parts, and the case alone takes more than 10 hours to manufacture. In addition to innovation, the high quality of the craftsmanship has made this a timeless masterpiece.
The combination of a PG case and black alligator strap creates a chic impression. The Grand Tapisserie movement, which accentuates the black dial, is slightly larger than the earlier Petit Tapisserie movement and has been used since 1999. Automatic winding (Cal. 4302). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 18K PG case (41mm diameter, 10.5mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 627 million yen (tax included).
The bezel is set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 0.92 ct). The Caliber 5900 movement was announced in 2022 as the successor to the previous Caliber 3120. It is now 3.9 mm thinner, with improved accuracy and duration. Automatic winding (Caliber 5900). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (37 mm diameter, 9.1 mm thick). Water resistant to 50 m. Price: 4,840,000 yen (tax included).
Inspired by the 1997 "Mini Oak," the bezel, case, and bracelet are finished in frosted gold. This is based on traditional metalworking techniques from Florence, Italy, and involves creating a finely textured surface using a special diamond-tipped tool. Depending on the light, it creates a sparkle reminiscent of diamond dust. Quartz movement (Cal. 2730). 18K yellow gold case (23mm diameter, 6.6mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 495 yen (tax included).
The first new collection in nearly a quarter of a century: CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet
C...Challenge
O...Own (inheritance)
D...Dare (pursuing spirit)
E...Evolve
CODE is an acronym made up of Challenge, Own, Dare, and Evolve. It symbolizes the brand's spirit of constantly challenging itself, inheriting its legacy, and continuing to innovate through unconventional thinking since its founding. "11.59" represents 11:59, just before the start of a new day.
A name speaks for itself. The reason the collection was named "CODE" rather than a concrete name is likely to be to incorporate the brand's DNA and strong passion for watchmaking that it has cultivated over the years. The "11.59" also signifies the moment just before a new day begins, and expresses determination for the future. Based on the concept of contemporary classicism, the watch has a very orthodox round case when viewed from the front. However, when viewed from a different angle, a completely different appearance emerges.
Between the bezel and the case back is an octagonal middle case, which is undoubtedly the brand's signature shape. The openworked lugs straddle this like a bridge. The sapphire crystal covering the front has a complex double curve, producing a variety of aberrations depending on the viewing angle. These design details give the watch a sense of discovering the hidden secrets that lie hidden within.
This new model features a slate gray dial with night blue and Cloud 50 accent colors. The dial features an embossed pattern called the Signature, with minute irregularities creating an elegant reflection of light. Automatic movement (Cal. 4302). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.7mm). Water resistant to 30m. Priced at 3,795,000 yen.
This is Audemars Piguet's first new collection in nearly a quarter of a century, and its 2019 debut saw the launch of 13 models and six in-house movements. Moreover, the brand continues to expand its lineup with ambitious new releases each year, including new colors, materials, and complex mechanisms. This represents the brand's mission and the true expression of its talent, positioned as a "canvas for creativity." The rapid progress of this new brand icon continues to amaze.
Three planetary gears rotate on their own axis, displaying the hours and minutes on a minute scale marked with an arc on the outer edge of the dial. Derived from the 17th-century invention of the Vagabond Hour, it first appeared at Audemars Piguet in 1991. Its avant-garde design is eye-catching. Automatic (Cal. 4310). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 18K white gold and ceramic case (41mm diameter, 10.7mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. 858 million yen (tax included).
This watch is equipped with the Cal. 4401, an in-house integrated chronograph movement released in 2019. It features flyback and an independent reset hammer, improving operational precision. The dial and rubber strap are unified in dark green, creating a stylish look. Automatic movement (Cal. 4401). 40 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 12.6mm). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 5,225,000 yen (tax included).
This size variation was added in 2023 to the collection, which is primarily centered around a 41mm diameter. The small 38mm case features a vibrant plum color dial and strap. The combination of a moderate size and unique color scheme is also suitable for men. Automatic movement (Cal. 5900). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. 18KPG case (38mm diameter, 9.6mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 4,950,000 yen (tax included).
Extreme Sports Watch "Royal Oak Offshore"
This new model, worthy of the anniversary year, features the iconic night blue Cloud 50 color on the ceramic bezel and dial. Over 30 years of refinement, the pushers are large and square to match the watch's form. Automatic (Cal. 4401). 40 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Ceramic and stainless steel case (43mm diameter, 14.4mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 616 million yen (tax included).
The Royal Oak Offshore collection was released in 1993, about 20 years after the birth of the Royal Oak. While retaining the basic design codes, the case was thicker and larger as an extreme sports watch, and its powerful presence caused controversy at the time of its release, with some calling it the "Beast." However, it was enthusiastically accepted by the younger generation, and the world view and appeal of the Royal Oak spread even further.
Originally released as a boutique-only model, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver was equipped with full-fledged diver functions in 2010. In addition to excellent water resistance, it features a rotating inner bezel set with the crown at 11 o'clock. Automatic winding (Cal. 4308). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel and ceramic case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.2mm). Water resistant to 300m. Price: 4.4 million yen (tax included).
The combination of an 18K pink gold case and black ceramic bezel creates a massive yet elegant appearance. The rubber strap provides a perfect fit and is easily interchangeable. Automatic movement (Cal. 4401). 40 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 18KPG and ceramic case (diameter 43mm, thickness 14.4mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 8,965,000 yen (tax included).
The elegant PG case is stylishly harmonised with the grey colour. The dial is decorated with a Grand Tapisserie motif, and the sporty rubber strap, symbolising the Offshore style, features a mosaic effect, enhancing the watch's look. Automatic movement (Cal. 5900). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. 18K PG and rubber case (diameter 37mm, thickness 12.1mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 6,820,000 yen (tax included).
The Royal Oak Concept: Expressing Tradition and the Future
The openwork dial features a split-seconds chronograph, GMT, and large date. It's the first watch to use patented CFT carbon, with blue accents that glow in the dark. Automatic movement (Cal. 4407). 73 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Carbon and ceramic case (43mm diameter, 17.5mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Price upon request.
Launched in 2002 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak, the Royal Oak Concept is a collection inspired by traditional watchmaking techniques and oriented towards the future, showcasing experimental technology and design. Combining complex mechanisms such as the Supersonnerie and Tourbillon with cutting-edge materials, the Royal Oak Concept has further sharpened its appeal with recent collaborations with KAWS.
The flying tourbillon features a GMT function, a second time zone at 3 o'clock, and a crown position indicator at 6 o'clock. The collection's first green ceramic bezel adds a touch of modernity. Manual winding (Cal. 2954). 24 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 237 hours. Titanium and ceramic case (44mm diameter, 16.1mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Price upon request.
"Remaster" - a reinterpretation of classic archives
The first release of 2020 is based on the rare Ref. 1533, produced in 1943, and incorporates modern technology such as automatic winding. The chronograph's minute counter features a red 4|5 to indicate halftime in soccer matches. Automatic winding (Cal. 4409). 40 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18KPG x stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 14.6mm thick). Water resistant to 20m. Reference product.
The Remaster collection reinterprets classic archive works with modern creative sensibilities and the latest technology, much like remastering a record. Launched in 2020, the second collection will be released in 2024. Each model not only embodies the originality and pioneering spirit that Audemars Piguet has maintained throughout its 150-year history, but also exudes a style that hints at the future of watchmaking.
The motif is the Ref. 5159BA, of which only seven were produced in 1960 and 1961. The unusually shaped case, influenced by Brutalism, is still innovative today. The dial features the signature color "Night Blue, Cloud 50." Automatic winding (Cal. 7129). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 52 hours. 18K sand gold case (41mm wide, 9.7mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide. 682 million yen (tax included).
