I had the opportunity to wear and review the Ref. SBSC013, one of Seiko's casual watch brands, the Seiko 5 Sports. This model, part of the brand's FIELD series, is not only functional for both outdoor and everyday use, but also appeals to men with its all-black look, which is enhanced with a military-style touch that appeals to men.
Photographs & Text by Kento Nii
[Article published on January 3, 2025]
The first GMT model in the Seiko 5 Sports "FIELD" series
Seiko 5 Sports is a casual watch brand with a design concept based on five styles that symbolize the diverse values of today. Its history dates back to the Seiko Sportsmatic 5, released in 1963. This model gained popularity among a wide range of people as a practical, high-quality timepiece in an era when dress watches were the norm. The Seiko 5 Sports, released in 1968, built on the practicality and reliability of the Seiko Sportsmatic 5 with upgraded specifications and incorporating a sporty design using vivid colors. The Seiko 5 Sports already boasted five groundbreaking features for its time: an automatic winding mechanism, water resistance, a day-date display, a crown at 4 o'clock, and a durable case and band.
The original Seiko 5 Sports was released to meet the growing demand for sports watches, but its vivid color design also proved popular, successfully gaining global support, especially among active young people. Continuing its global expansion, the brand was finally relaunched in Japan in 2019, and has since expanded its lineup to the present day.
The current Seiko 5 Sports lineup features five styles that represent modern lifestyles. These are comprised of three core series: SKX, FIELD, and SNXS. Each series has its own distinct concept, catering to a variety of needs: SKX, which is inspired by the style of a diver's watch; FIELD, which is suitable for both outdoor activities and everyday use; and SNXS, which has a classic, timeless design.
Automatic movement (Cal. 4R34). 24 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 41 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39.4 mm, thickness 13.6 mm). Enhanced water resistance for everyday use (10 bar). Price: 57,200 yen (tax included).
The Ref. SBSC013 that we will be reviewing today is one of three models released as the first GMT watch in the FIELD series. The all-black coloring, achieved by the adoption of a black case, gives this model a bold look.
The price is less than 60,000 yen including tax, which is a very reasonable price for a mechanical watch with a GMT function and 10 bar water resistance. Of course, this is a watch that we would recommend to anyone buying a watch for the first time.
A dial with a moderate military feel
When I first saw the Ref. SBSC013 in my hands, my first impression was, "Wow, this is cool!" As a former member of the Self-Defense Forces, I have a weakness for anything with a military feel. In that respect, the easy-to-read Arabic numerals and the hour markers on the inner periphery, which display the hours from 13:00 to 24:00, were exactly what I wanted.
Let's take a look at each of its features one by one. First of all, the dial is not simply black, but has a matte finish that reduces light reflection, making the indexes and hands stand out. In addition, the SEIKO logo and Arabic numeral indexes are three-dimensional, so the watch does not have a flat appearance. While there are watches in the same price range that have printed indexes, this is an elaborately finished watch.
What I personally appreciate is that the Arabic numerals are colored a pale green. Military night vision devices often use a highly visible green, and the indices stand out against the total black appearance, which is reminiscent of that color. Unfortunately, the luminous paint is only applied to the hour and minute hands and the hour markers on the outer edge of the dial, but for a watch priced in the 5 yen range, these kinds of small details are effective in creating a distinctive look.
The second hand, 24-hour hand, and GMT markings are also colored orange, making them stand out on the dial. Vivid color accents are common to many Seiko 5 Sports models, and even this all-black model exudes an aggressive look. Additionally, each hand is coated with luminous paint, ensuring visibility in dark places.
The fixed bezel surrounding the dial is engraved with a 24-hour display, with its glossy numerals standing out against the hairline finish. Of course, if legibility were a priority, the 24-hour display would probably be painted white. However, from the perspective of emphasizing the total black color, this model's specifications are spot on. This makes the 24-hour display less visible the further away you are from the watch, further accentuating its rugged look. This is a key point, highlighting the watch's powerful wrist and its role as a fashion item.
Compact looking black case
The case diameter of this watch is 39.4mm. It's a little small for a sports watch, but the thick, sloping bezel and the shrinking color that makes black objects look smaller make it feel even smaller on the wrist. If you're considering purchasing one, you might want to imagine a model with a diameter of around 38mm, as this might reduce the gap when worn.
The case itself is 13.6mm thick. The leather strap is attached using a pull-through system, so the case floats slightly from the wrist when worn, but by wrapping it tightly, the feeling of it shaking is reduced. Incidentally, the head alone weighs 64g.
I tried wearing this watch for both business and personal occasions, and it felt great. The black calf leather is incredibly soft, and while its texture is inferior to that of alligator leather, it fits snugly on the wrist. However, if I wanted to customize it to my own taste, I would consider replacing it with a nylon or polyamide strap to emphasize a more military feel.
Functionality that focuses on the essentials
The watch is equipped with the Cal. 4R34 movement, which is also used in the Seiko 5 Sports SKX GMT model and the Presage GMT model. Catalog specifications guarantee a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and accuracy within -35 to +45 seconds per day. If you're looking for an entry-level mechanical watch, this model offers ample performance.
The crown operates in two stages. Turning it clockwise in the first stage advances the GMT hand by one hour, while turning it counterclockwise advances the calendar by one day. Pulling it out to the second stage stops the second hand, allowing you to adjust the main time. I previously handled a Presage watch with the same movement, and I noticed that there was little play in the crown, making it easy to adjust the time.
The case is also water resistant to 10 bar, just like the previous Seiko 5 Sports, and is also somewhat antimagnetic. Naturally, like a field watch, it is a watch that can be carried around in active scenes.
A casual and enjoyable military style
After wearing this watch for about a week, I realized that its all-black look and the military feel that can be felt everywhere are its charm. The all-black look accented with pale green and orange gives it the look of a full-fledged military watch, and while it lacks the stoicism of Panerai and IWC watches, it feels like a casual, "military-style" watch that can be worn casually on a daily basis.
Of course, even without considering the design, this watch is highly refined. The functionality common to all Seiko 5 Sports watches makes it easy to use on a daily basis, and combined with its price range of under 60,000 yen, it is a watch that can be confidently recommended even to those new to mechanical watches.
In recent years, Seiko 5 Sports has not only released a series of limited edition models in collaboration with other companies and celebrities, but also re-imports overseas models, such as the SNXS series, which will be released in 2024. We look forward to seeing the lineup expand even further in the future.
