After luxury sports watches became a huge trend and became a standard, dress watches are gaining attention as a new trend. This classic genre, which was once difficult to use, has now dramatically evolved into a more practical watch. We revisited this new era of dress watches in the January 2024 issue (Vol. 110) of Chronos Japan. This feature article is republished on webChronos. In this first installment, we define dress watches from the perspective of "wearability."
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama, Yu Mitamura, Masanori Yoshie
Tomoe Kase and Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and text
Text by Tomoshige Kase, Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Tomoshige Kase, Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan), Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
A New Era of Dress Watches Chapter 1: Wearing Comfort
The definition of a "dress watch" is becoming more and more vague with each passing year. However, a comfortable fit remains a key factor that distinguishes a dress watch from other watches. However, for a simple dress watch, these requirements are not many: a short overall length, a thin case, and a low center of gravity. So, what kind of innovations have each manufacturer implemented into their models? Let's take a look at the solutions each company has, using the latest dress watches as examples.
①Short overall length
A common feature of the latest dress watches is their short overall length. The reason they fit comfortably on the wrist despite the larger case is because of their short lugs. In the past, dress watches tried to lengthen the lugs as much as possible. However, today, manufacturers are aiming for the exact opposite. The secret to making short lugs look dressy is to angle them and make them drop significantly.
Throughout the 1990s and 2000s, many dress watches attempted to have as long lugs as possible. Long lugs not only made the watch look dressier, but also added dimension to watches with flat sapphire crystals. While Gerald Genta disliked this approach, brands like Girard-Perregaux and Maurice Lacroix of this era combined long lugs with their watch cases.
On the other hand, the recent trend is the exact opposite: larger watches with shorter lugs. A good example is the Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. The case diameter is 40mm, but because the lugs are short, the watch is only 44.8mm long. This is why it fits well even on smaller wrists.
Equipped with a coaxial escapement, it offers enhanced anti-magnetic performance and a longer maintenance cycle. The bezel is screwed from the back and the short lugs reduce the overall volume. The two-tone dial is paired with a clearly defined case that hints at high-quality craftsmanship, making it a prime example of a modern dress watch. Yet it also holds a Master Chronometer certification. Manual winding (Cal. 8934). 29 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (40mm diameter, 10.07mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. (Inquiries) Omega Customer Service Tel. 03-5952-4400
Incidentally, in the days when long lugs were the norm, it was common practice to bend the lugs toward the wrist to improve comfort. However, this level of care is excessive for a thin dress watch, not a heavy one. In addition, with the spread of raised dome crystals, there is no longer any need to force the lugs to create a three-dimensional effect.
Starting with the Omega Trésor, Audemars Piguet's Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet, and the latest IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, all share a common denominator: making short lugs appear shorter. All of them have thick lugs and middle cases, with the ends of the lugs connected to them dropped significantly. As a result, while the lugs appear short from the side, they appear surprisingly long when viewed head-on.
However, to incorporate this methodology, the middle case connected to the lugs needs to have a certain thickness, which is a design technique that was difficult to achieve in previous dress watches, which tried to make the middle case as slim as possible.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was a pioneer in the design of short lugs. The Reverso Classic Large Small Seconds introduced on this page is no exception, and by shortening the lugs, the watch's overall length is kept to just 45.6mm. This is roughly the same length as the Nomos Tangente 35mm, which means it should feel quite light on the wrist.
This technique of adding short lugs to the case has been seen in ultra-thin hand-wound watches since the 1940s. This was done to make the dress watch less conspicuous, but it is also useful for today's dress watches, as the cases have become larger. This trend of short overall length is now being followed by many manufacturers. It is attracting a lot of attention as a methodology for dress watches of the future.
The Reverso was born in 1931 with a reversible case to prevent damage to the crystal during polo matches. Although its origins are closely associated with sports, its Art Deco design gives it an elegant appearance suitable for formal occasions. Its case is large for a Reverso Classic, but it is comfortable to wear. The reversible caseback can be personalized with engraving. Manual winding (Cal. 822). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (45.6mm x 27.4mm, 8.5mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. (Inquiries) Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833
②Thin case
The classic way to improve comfort has always been to have a thin case. However, many models have lost individuality and practicality in exchange for this. So how can a dress watch be made more like a regular watch while still maintaining its thinness? Bulgari's Octo Finissimo and Breguet's Classique offer a clear solution. By using ingenious case processing, these watches incorporate individuality and practicality not previously seen in thin watches.
In the past, dress watches aimed to have as thin a case as possible to show off their technology. This was also welcomed by customers looking for accessories that matched their dressy outfits. However, as a result, it is undeniable that these thin watches lost their clear individuality and practicality. It is inevitable that today's active consumers have begun to shun dress watches and turn to sporty watches.
However, the new era of dress watches has made it possible to incorporate individuality and practicality into thin cases. In other words, they have become closer to regular wristwatches while maintaining their excellent wearing comfort. A prime example of this is Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT. Despite its three-dimensional case and automatic chronograph with a horizontal clutch, the case is only 8.75mm thick. Moreover, it is water-resistant to 100m, on par with a sports watch. While the Octo Finissimo has been praised for its thinness and excellent wearing comfort, its true appeal lies in the fact that it brings the polar opposite concept of practicality to the thin watch genre.
This model is equipped with a chronograph and GMT, based on the Octo Finissimo, a pioneer of thin practical watches. The chronograph is operated with a push button on the 3 o'clock side of the case, while the hour hand is operated independently with a push button on the 9 o'clock side. The case, composed of multiple facets, achieves both a thin and three-dimensional appearance. Automatic winding (Cal. BVL318). 37 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 43mm, thickness 8.75mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. (Inquiries) Bvlgari Japan Tel. 0120-030-142
In the past, it was considered impossible to create a three-dimensional effect or increase airtightness in a thin case. However, with the widespread use of cutting in case manufacturing and the increased precision of its processing, it can be said that the disadvantages of a thin case have now been largely eliminated. The Parmigiani Fleurier "Tonda PF" and other watches can be said to be dress watches of a new era, brought about by the evolution of case technology.
Authentic thin watches have also evolved. Breguet's Classique 5177 is a model with a standard three-piece case. Its 8.8mm thinness is achieved by using a snap-on case back. In the past, it was difficult to achieve 30m water resistance with a snap-on case back. Even if a manufacturer advertised a depth of 30m, there were watches that were barely airtight. This is why people used to say, "Don't wear a thin watch in the rain."
However, by improving the precision of the case parts and the processing of the crown, luxury manufacturers like Breguet have significantly improved the water resistance of their thin dress watches. Furthermore, in the Classique 5177, the case that holds the movement is made lightweight yet rigid, achieving both a light and sturdy case. While not visible, this is a consideration that enhances practicality.
Making the case thinner has always been a classic way to improve wearability, and modern dress watches have finally managed to add character and practicality without compromising on thinness.
This classic watch incorporates Breguet's iconic design elements, including a silver-finished gold dial with guilloched details, Breguet hands for improved readability, and coin-edge decoration on the case sides. The self-winding movement, which uses silicon for the balance spring and escapement for enhanced practicality, can be viewed through the caseback. Automatic (Cal. 777Q). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 55 hours. 18K white gold case (38mm diameter, 8.8mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. (Inquiries) Breguet Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7211
③Low center of gravity
Even a large, heavy watch will feel better if it has a low center of gravity. While this isn't as important for a thin, light dress watch, a watch with a "stable" head will still fit better on the wrist. The key is to place the movement as close to the dial as possible, and to distribute the weight of the watch. While there aren't many manufacturers that offer this kind of care for their thin watches, there are some out there if you look hard enough. Louis Vuitton, Moritz Grossmann, and the new Grand Seiko are examples of such brands.
If a watch is thin and light, it will feel comfortable even if it has some imperfections. This is one reason why enthusiasts who are tired of heavy sports watches have started to turn their attention to simple dress watches. In addition, some dress watches have begun to take measures to improve comfort, such as lowering the center of gravity.
Louis Vuitton's new Tambour has a sporty design, but it is clearly tailored as a dress watch. Details like the small seconds at 3 o'clock and the tapered bezel are undoubtedly typical of dress watches. Additionally, this model incorporates numerous ingenious features to enhance comfort. One such feature is the case that widens toward the back. This is a reference to the original Tambour, and the design of making the back of the thin case heavier makes it exceptionally comfortable on the wrist. Additionally, by making the bracelet thicker and deliberately reducing the taper, the weight of the watch is distributed evenly throughout. The fact that the stainless steel and 18K gold cases offer similar comfort is likely due to the excellent design.
Grand Seiko's Elegance Collection SBGW305 is also a watch with a surprisingly low center of gravity. To begin with, this model is only 37.3mm in diameter, 11.7mm thick, and just 44.3mm long. However, because the case back is narrowed, the watch's center of gravity is steeply inclined. This approach typically raises the watch's center of gravity. However, by tilting the lugs significantly toward the wrist and pairing it with a heavier bracelet, the Grand Seiko SBGW305 succeeds in lowering the watch's center of gravity and distributing the weight, just like its predecessor, the SBGW235. The excellent packaging of this model is evident from the fact that it remains virtually unchanged from its predecessor.
A dress watch with a simple manual winding and no date design. The sharp hands and indices offer excellent visibility and add a touch of elegance to the design. Its small size also gives it an elegant impression. The use of a manual winding movement keeps the case thin, while the smooth rice bracelet provides a comfortable fit. Manual winding (Cal. 9S64). 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 37.3mm, thickness 11.7mm). Water resistant for everyday use. (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service (Grand Seiko) Tel. 0120-302-617
A surprisingly good choice? A compact, thin, hand-wound watch
The minimum requirement for a dress watch is that it is thin and comfortable to wear. The latest models are of course excellent, but there are many older models that can also be called masterpieces. The target is a compact, thin, hand-wound watch.
Since the 1940s, manufacturers such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Piaget have perfected the style of thin watches. Cases are made from precious metals, movements are hand-wound (later automatic), the indices and hands are thin, and the cases are simple. Later, these manufacturers added stainless steel to the case material and improved water resistance with screw-down case backs, but the basic structure has not changed much since the 40s and 50s.
These watches experienced a revival in the 80s and 90s. However, unlike the thin watches of the past, they now featured sturdy sapphire crystal for the crystal, and their previously meager water resistance was greatly improved. In particular, the advances in waterproof gaskets from the 60s to the 70s gave subsequent thin watches a level of airtightness that was previously unimaginable.
The Altiplano, released in 1998, was equipped with the Caliber 430P. Despite its ultra-thin three-piece case, it's water resistant to 3 ATM. While it looks modern, its components are all classic. Manually wound. 21,600 vph. 18 jewels. Approximately 43 hours of power reserve. 18K White Gold case (38mm diameter). Reference product.
First released in 1985, this dress watch features the masterpiece Cal. 215 PS in a slim case. Its simple dial and compact lugs make it a typical ultra-thin dress watch. However, perhaps for practicality's sake, it also features a small seconds hand. Manual winding. 18K yellow gold case (33mm diameter). Water resistant to 2.5 bar. Reference product.
The two models mentioned here are dress watches with a traditional design. The Piaget Altiplano and Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3919 house the two companies' masterpiece manual-winding movements in compact cases. Unlike modern dress watches, which have begun to consider timekeeping performance, the biggest difference is that the design elements of these watches have shifted significantly in the direction of dressiness. For example, the extremely thin hour and minute hands. While this would never be acceptable by today's standards, for dress watches of the past, ease of reading the time was secondary.
Short lugs are also a detail unique to ultra-thin dress watches. This was originally designed to make the watch less eye-catching. However, because it shortens the overall length of the watch, it has become a common feature in the latest dress watches. These two thin and light models are extremely comfortable to wear, and the short lugs further emphasize their character. Incidentally, the Ralph Lauren Slim Classic, which has sadly been discontinued, is also a model that fully incorporates these elements.
To be honest, it's hard to imagine a revival of compact, thin, hand-wound dress watches. This is especially true considering that in-house movements from various manufacturers have shifted to automatics and have also grown in size. However, the ultra-thin hand-wound movements that defined the style of dress watches epitomize the inherent beauty of dress watches. And fortunately, these watches are still available at affordable prices on the secondary market.
