After luxury sports watches became a huge trend and became a standard, dress watches are gaining attention as a new trend. This classic genre, which was once somewhat difficult to use, has now dramatically evolved into a more practical watch. We revisited this new era of dress watches in the January 2024 issue (Vol. 110) of Chronos Japan. This feature article is republished on webChronos. In this third installment, we define this genre from the perspective of the "movement" that gives modern dress watches their practicality.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama, Yu Mitamura
Tomoe Kase and Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and text
Text by Tomoshige Kase, Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Tomoshige Kase, Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan), Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
New Era Dress Watch Chapter 3 Movement
One of the main reasons for the current revival of dress watches is undoubtedly the ability to manufacture highly airtight and sturdy cases. However, there is another factor that may further accelerate the popularity of dress watches: newly designed in-house movements. Features such as automatic winding mechanisms with greatly improved winding efficiency and shock-resistant free-sprung balances have given the new generation of dress watches the performance to be suitable for everyday wear. Let's take a look at some good examples.
①Automatic winding mechanism
It was once a common belief among those involved in the watch industry that "thin dress watches have trouble winding their mainsprings." Of course, watchmakers have tried to improve this by placing the rotor weight on the periphery, but it was impossible to expect high winding efficiency from a thin and light rotor. However, the new generation of in-house automatic watches is dramatically changing this conventional wisdom. Good examples include ratchet-type automatic watches that use pawls to wind the watch, smooth-rotating peripheral rotors, and bidirectional micro-rotors.
The Portugieser, born in the 1930s, is a large, highly accurate wristwatch equipped with a pocket watch movement. This model adheres to its simple design codes while being made in an easy-to-handle size. The Pellaton automatic winding mechanism uses ceramic material for excellent durability. The wide variety of dials is also appealing. Automatic winding (Cal. 82200). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.4 mm, thickness 12.3 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. (Inquiries) IWC Tel. 0120-05-1868
Thin automatic movements became mainstream in dress watches from the late 1960s onwards. However, they rapidly lost popularity in the 80s. One reason for this was their low winding efficiency. As a result of making the movements thinner, thin automatic movements were forced to use lighter rotors. In addition, the switching rocker type automatic movement, which was adopted to avoid wear, quickly lost winding efficiency when the oil ran out.
Manufacturers tried to make the rotor heavier by using platinum or gold, which have a high specific gravity, but it cannot be said that they were successful. Although there were successful examples such as Patek Philippe's micro-rotor, Cal. 240, many thin dress watches began to use quartz movements instead of automatic winding. Even after the revival of mechanical watches, the market perception that "thin dress watches do not wind the mainspring" remained unchanged.
The navy blue dial and Arabic numeral indexes with vertical satin finish, and the fabric strap make this watch suitable for casual wear. The movement visible through the see-through back is full of highlights, including the chamfered bridges, Côtes de Genève, and micro-rotor. Automatic winding (Cal. LUC 96.53-L). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 58 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 7.2mm). Water resistant to 30m. (Inquiries) Chopard Japan Press Tel. 03-5524-8922
However, over the past decade, thin automatic watches have been making a comeback. This is due to the evolution of automatic winding systems, boasting high winding efficiency. Ratchet-type automatic winding systems, such as Seiko's Magic Lever, IWC's Pellaton, and Richemont's MagicClick, which use pawls rather than gears to wind the mainspring, are highly efficient enough to keep the mainspring wound even while working at a desk. Furthermore, MPS's micro-ceramic bearings have finally made peripheral rotors, which were previously extremely inefficient, usable. Micro-rotors are also changing. While micro-rotors were once considered only suitable for unidirectional winding, highly efficient bidirectional micro-rotors are changing that perception.
The myth that thin dress watches have trouble winding their mainsprings is now a thing of the past.
This watch features natural colors inspired by nature. The blue dial adds warmth to classic elements such as wedge-shaped indexes, dauphine hands, and a small seconds hand. The peripheral rotor boasts high winding efficiency and also allows the finish of the bridges to be easily admired. Includes an interchangeable strap. Automatic winding (Cal. CFB A2050). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.6mm, thickness 11.2mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
②Free Sprung
We've covered the free-sprung balance many times in this magazine, a rate adjustment system that doesn't rely on a regulator. Instead of a balance pin that comes into contact with the balance spring, this system adjusts the loss or gain of a watch by rotating a weight attached to the balance wheel. It was once considered to provide mechanical movements with stable accuracy over the long term, but the structure of having no parts that come into contact with the balance spring has also greatly improved the shock resistance of mechanical movements. This mechanism may become more common in dress watches in the future.
A free-sprung balance without a regulator is one of the characteristics of high-end mechanical movements. Patek Philippe, followed by Rolex, were among the first to adopt this mechanism because it maintains stable accuracy over long periods of time. However, this free-sprung balance also has another advantage: because there are no hairpins that come into contact with the balance spring and change its length, the balance spring is less likely to be damaged even when subjected to strong impacts.
It is no surprise that many manufacturers developing their own in-house movements since the 2000s have actively adopted free-sprung balances instead of regulators, and this shock-resistant mechanism has helped underpin the boom in luxury sports watches since 15.
This is Rolex's latest model, named after the year the brand name was registered as a trademark. The classic dial design is a modern reinterpretation of the original Oyster Perpetual. It features a transparent case back, allowing you to view the newly developed automatic movement, Cal. 7140. Automatic (Cal. 7140). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 66 hours. 18K yellow gold case (diameter 39mm, thickness 9.5mm). Water resistant to 50m.
A free-sprung balance not only improves isochronism but also the movement's shock resistance. Having recognized its benefits, manufacturers began to incorporate this mechanism into basic dress watches. A good example is the Rolex Perpetual 1908, released in 23, and the Caliber 7140 it is equipped with. Instead of the traditional Parachrom balance spring, this one uses silicon, which is less likely to deform even when subjected to shock. Given that a regulator cannot be used with a silicon balance spring, it's no surprise that a free-sprung balance was chosen for the regulator. This combination would theoretically provide this new dress watch with high precision and exceptional shock resistance.
The Swatch Group has been actively adopting free-sprung balances. The group's high-end brands, Breguet and Blancpain, now have free-sprung balances in almost all of their movements. The movement used by the Villeret watch shown in the photo is based on the classic Frédéric Piguet movement, Cal. 1150. By changing the original regulator to a free-sprung balance, performance has been further improved.
Free-sprung balances are also common in movements from other manufacturers. IWC's Portugieser and Patek Philippe's dress watches all feature free-sprung balances. Omega and its latest Longines models have also switched to free-sprung balances. The widespread adoption of silicon balance springs has undoubtedly accelerated the popularity of free-sprung balances, but if the mechanism hadn't been useful in the first place, it's unlikely it would have become so popular.
The free-sprung balance brought luxury sports watches to the forefront, evolving dress watches, once considered impractical, into watches that could be worn in any situation.
Blancpain has made a major contribution to the revival of mechanical watches by highlighting their appeal through complex mechanisms. It features a complete calendar displaying the month, date, day of the week, and moon phase, while also achieving a refined dial and slim case. The serpentine hand indicating the date and the moon with a painted face are iconic designs that symbolize the company. Automatic movement (Cal. 6654.4). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 10.9mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. (Inquiries) Blancpain Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7233
③Aesthetics
Dress watches require excellent finishing because they have few components. This also applies to the movements they are equipped with. The perception that a "dress watch" is a model equipped with a well-finished movement has not changed from the past to the present. However, with the evolution of dress watches, some of the latest models have begun to feature finishes that have never been seen before. One such example is a matte finish that deliberately reduces the shine. The perception that "luxury" means "something that shines" may change significantly in the future.
Piaget has been making thin movements since the 1950s. The micro-rotor automatic movement featured in this watch is just 3mm thick, but naturally, the finish is impeccable. The slim case that won't get in the way of your cuffs and the elegantly laid out dial are sure to add a touch of glamour to any party. Automatic (Cal. 1205P1). 27 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 44 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 40mm, thickness 6.36mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. (Inquiries) Piaget Contact Center Tel. 0120-73-1874
When it comes to high-end mechanical movements, the combination of linear Geneva finishing and circular graining is standard. And at higher price points, hand-crafted rounded edges are essential. Of course, these details have undoubtedly brought a distinct sense of luxury to dress watches.
However, as the nature of dress watches continues to change, some manufacturers are incorporating new finishes into their movements. Audemars Piguet and Cartier are two examples. By hollowing out the skeleton movement and giving it a satin finish, both companies have succeeded in adding a modern touch to dress watches. While it was once standard for dress watches to have a luminous movement, just like the case, this theory no longer has to be adhered to.
The design is modeled after the highly acclaimed Glashütte-made marine chronometers of the 19th and 20th centuries. The dial is hand-painted with a mixture of silver powder, salt, and water, giving it a rough texture. Equipped with an advanced second hand regulation mechanism that resets the second hand to zero when adjusting the time. Manual winding (Cal. 58-08). 58 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 44 hours and 40 minutes. 18KWG case (diameter 42mm, thickness 11.4mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. (Inquiries) Glashütte Original Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7266
Glashütte Original's Senator Chronometer also showcases a new approach. The movement bridge is blasted to create a perfect match between the monochromatic exterior and the movement. While blasting may seem inexpensive, achieving a high-quality finish requires preparing the base flat. This makes it more time-consuming than Geneva finishing, which simply involves cutting the surface. Just because something doesn't shine doesn't necessarily mean it's cheaper.
Changes are also being made to movements that use classic finishing techniques. Piaget's Altiplano uses a movement that replaces vertical Geneva finishing with a rounded finish that highlights the micro-rotor. Transforming decoration into a design element is new.
The nature of dress watches is currently undergoing major changes, and along with this, movement finishes are likely to see a variety of variations in the future.
Choosing a Classic Movement
Dress watches are evolving beyond conventional boundaries. Part of this is thanks to all-new in-house movements. But dress watches are not about performance. So why not turn to classic watches instead?
Tutima's Patria dress watch is equipped with the newly designed Caliber 617. However, it is packed with classic details, such as a small seconds gear train, hand-beveled edges, and a winding balance spring. Manual winding. 21,600 vph. 20 jewels. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (43mm diameter, 11mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar.
In this feature, titled "New Era Dress Watches," we have selected watches equipped with new-generation movements that are fundamentally robust. In other words, while the case is thin and dressy, it has a movement that can be used as well as a practical watch. Free-sprung balances and large-diameter balance wheels have undoubtedly greatly expanded the possibilities for thin dress watches.
However, if you don't intend to use it for rugged purposes, it's fine to choose a dress watch with a movement with a classic design. Masterpieces such as Patek Philippe's 215 PS, Piaget's 430P, Frederic Piguet's 21, Jaeger-LeCoultre's 849, Audemars Piguet's 2003, and Vacheron Constantin's 1003 have almost disappeared from the market, but if you look hard enough, you can still find classic movements suitable for dress watches.
The most prominent example is the Caliber LUC 96.40-L used in the Chopard LUC 1860. It was first released in 1996 as the 96.01-L (formerly known as the 1.96). It is a micro-rotor automatic winding movement, but rather than unidirectional winding, it uses an elaborate ratchet-type automatic winding mechanism. The combination of fine circular graining, a winding balance spring, and a swan-neck regulator adds to the appeal of this movement.
Vacheron Constantin's 1120 is also a movement worth choosing. Its basic design dates back to 1967 and it's still used in the company's complications. While its winding efficiency and precision aren't high by today's standards, its design remains the pinnacle of thin automatic movements. Unfortunately, it's not available in basic two-hand models, but it's still available for perpetual calendars.
The Cal. 68 series used in Credor's Gold Feather is also a movement that retains the design of the past. Looking around the world, the only ultra-thin hand-wound movements left are Piaget's 430P and the 68 series. If we follow the classic definition of a thin, two-hand hand-wound movement, the Gold Feather is probably the only choice in the world.
Lastly, there's the Tutima Patria. Its Caliber 617 is a completely new design, but it incorporates classic elements like a small seconds wheel train and a winding balance spring.
Of course, the latest movements are great, but especially in dress watches, I'd like to see more movements that are more visible.
