A quick look at Chanel's new watches for 2025! [J12, Monsieur de Chanel]

The J12 was released by Chanel in 2000. It was a major collection that achieved great success by using ceramics, which had previously been treated as an industrial material, for the exterior and tailoring it as a luxury watch. 25 years after the birth of the J12, the company has released a variety of J12 models, including the first of its kind in blue with a matte finish. We will introduce this collection along with the latest Monsieur de Chanel, which was launched at the same time.

Chanel 2025 New Arrivals① "J12 BLEU"

　In 2000, Chanel released the "J12." This is the brand's signature watch collection, which used ceramics, a material previously used mainly in industrial products, for its exterior and elevated it to the level of luxury wristwatches. The first model was released in black ceramic, followed by a white ceramic model in 2003. Since then, various variations have been released, but the coloring has always been primarily black or white.

　The J12 will celebrate its 25th anniversary in 2025. To mark this milestone, the brand will release the J12 BLEU, its first watch to feature matte blue ceramic.

　Ceramics are hard, scratch-resistant, corrosion-resistant, lightweight, and fade-resistant. While it's an excellent material for watches, its hardness also makes it difficult to create complex shapes and patterns. Chanel's skill in handling ceramics and manufacturing them in its own workshops is surely what has enabled them to create this new ceramic with a deep matte texture and a blue hue that's almost black.

　Blue is a color that has adorned Chanel items, from the high jewelry collection "Bijoux de Diamants" launched in 1932 to the worlds of fashion and beauty. However, the ceramics of the J12 BLEU, which Chanel developed over a period of five years, are a new blue exclusively for wristwatches.

　The stainless steel bezel and crown are black-coated, and combined with the highly resistant matte blue ceramic ring on the bezel with a baguette pattern, the design is striking despite not being flashy in color.

"I had long wanted to add color to black, or to bring brightness with blue. Ultimately, I chose this special blue intuitively. I was looking for a blue that was close to black, or perhaps even a black close to blue, with a solemn elegance," said Arnaud Chastan, Director of Chanel's Watchmaking Creation Studio, who has worked on the designs of such watches as the Première, J12, Boyfriend, Code Coco, and Monsieur de Chanel. Rather than simply using blue, this collection has been enriched with originality and aesthetics, resulting in a one-of-a-kind luxury watch, a fitting way to mark the 25th anniversary.

J12 BLEU comes in a wide variety of options

　The J12 BLEU is being released in a total of nine models, including the Ref. H10310 and Ref. H9632, which have already been shown in images, as well as sapphire crystal models.

　In addition to the "J12 BLEU Calibre 12.1" with a 38mm case, the "J12 BLEU Calibre 12.2" with a 33mm case has also been released. Both are highly reliable automatic movements manufactured by Kenissi. Chanel has a stake in Kenissi, which also uses the movement of Tudor, Breitling, and Norqain. The transparent case back allows you to see the black coating on the movement of models with blue sapphire indexes.

　A model was also released in a limited production run of 100 pieces, featuring a total of 58 natural blue sapphires that are not baguette-cut, but are actually baguette-cut, set in the bezel and indexes.

　Even more extravagantly, two models have been released with baguette-cut sapphires set in the center links of the bracelet. These two models are available in 42mm and 28mm case sizes, which are not available on the regular J12. The sparkling gems, which took over 110 hours to set in Chanel's own workshops, feature 170 baguette-cut sapphires in the 42mm model and 196 in the 28mm model. Each model is limited to just 12 pieces worldwide, making them extremely rare and a masterpiece that fully showcases the skill of Chanel's manufacture.

　The lineup also includes models that are typical of Chanel, which has been focusing on developing complex mechanisms in recent years.

　This watch features a flying tourbillon visible through a large opening on the dial at 6 o'clock. A single 0.18 carat diamond, carefully selected for its optimal balance of weight and brilliance, rotates at its center. Echoing the 34 baguette-cut sapphires set in the bezel, this is a unique and elegant complication watch. This mystical rotation is made possible by the Cal. 5 movement, created in 2022 by Chanel at its La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, after approximately three years of development. The tourbillon is adorned with precious stones and diamonds, Gabrielle Chanel's favorites, and is comprised of 172 individual parts.

　Unlike the other models released at the same time, this model has a special finish in which the case sides have been hand-polished over a period of approximately eight hours.

　Because of its special nature, this work is extremely rare, with only 55 units produced worldwide.

　Another big attraction is the "J12 BLEU X-RAY," a product of the "X-RAY" series that uses sapphire crystal instead of ceramic to create a transparent blue color.

　This new model features a shade of blue inspired by the sea and sky on a sunny day, created exclusively for this watch. Its striking design, unlike matte blue ceramic, makes a striking statement. The case and bracelet were carved from a block of blue sapphire crystal after more than 1600 hours of work and are set with 196 baguette-cut natural blue sapphires. The 18K white gold bezel and links are dyed black, creating a striking contrast with the transparent case and bracelet.

　The movement, Cal. 3.1, is fitted with a sapphire crystal plate and gear bridges, including the minute wheel, which allow light to pass through, making the black gears stand out even more.

　The dial is also made of sapphire crystal and features 12 blue sapphires as indexes.

Chanel 2025 New Release ② "Monsieur de Chanel Lion Tourbillon"

　Named after the French term "Monsieur," which means a title of respect for a man, "Monsieur de Chanel" was launched in 2016 as Chanel's first men's collection. In addition to its sporty yet elegant design, it is now known as one of the watches that embodies Chanel's Haute Horlogerie.

　Now, Monsieur de Chanel has released a new model that highlights the lion: the Monsieur de Chanel Lion Tourbillon. A model featuring the same movement and a lion motif on the tourbillon carriage at 6 o'clock was released in 2023, but this time with a different dial and exterior.

　Mademoiselle Chanel's birthday was August 19th, making her a Leo. Therefore, she adopted the lion as her personal emblem. The lion's significant presence in her apartment on Rue Cambon in Paris is evident in the precious artwork it displayed alongside, and the lion even graced the buttons of the tweed jackets she designed. In fact, Arnaud Chastain commented in the release of this album, "The lion is an essential element of Mademoiselle's inner world." He continued, "The majestic lion now appears in every creation of the House, and stands out among the many timeless codes she left behind. It is truly a symbol of inspiration, and I deeply admire its authority and elegance."

　This piece evokes the lion, an important symbol of the brand and a symbol of protection and strength. The tourbillon, visible through a large opening at 6 o'clock on the dial, features a plate decorated with a lion on its titanium carriage. As mentioned above, this movement has been seen in previous models. However, what is particularly noteworthy about this piece is that the shining white platinum case accentuates the rotating lion motif. It is a flying tourbillon, and although we haven't seen the actual watch, we can imagine enjoying the fantastical rotation of the lion's face as if it were floating in the air.

　The movement that makes this powerful movement possible, the Caliber 5.1, is developed and assembled in the company's own workshop in Switzerland. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a lion-adorned carriage. By using titanium to make the carriage lighter and adopting a twin barrel, the movement boasts a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

　The price of this work, including tax, is 2090 million yen.

Chanel 2025 New Release ③ "Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Blue Edition"

　Another new model from Monsieur de Chanel has been released: the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Blue Edition, which, like the J12 BLEU, is clad in matte blue ceramic.

The "Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera" collection is inspired by the "Superleggera" design of the highest-level racing cars of the 1950s. Superleggera is a car body manufacturing technique developed by Italian coachbuilders, characterized by its ultra-lightweight body and aluminum chassis. Released as the J12 in 2005, the Monsieur de Chanel collection inherited its spirit in 2021. This latest model, clad in a "blue-close-to-black, or black-close-to-blue" colorway, exudes a mysterious aura of elegance and sportiness. While the overall impression is subdued, including the Superleggera logo at 12 o'clock, the dial's guilloched pattern reminiscent of a speedometer and the nylon and leather strap evoke a motorsports vibe.

　The movement is the "Calibre 1," developed and assembled by Chanel. It features a jumping hour display in a small window at 6 o'clock, a retrograde minute display that occupies a large portion of the dial, and a small second hand in the center. This movement also has a practical power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

　The retail price of this title is 7,678,000 yen including tax.