Audemars Piguet has produced a vast and diverse range of timepieces throughout its long history. Therefore, even when looking at the "Top 10 of All Time" as chosen by eight experts, including journalists and writers, the lineup is quite diverse. However, what all the models have in common is Audemars Piguet's outstanding design sense and innovation.
Styling by Eiji Ishikawa (TRS)
Text by Katsuyuki Tanaka (Atelier ADJET), Mitsuru Shibata
Edited by Yuzo Takeishi
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Kayo Okamura: "The charm lies in the Royal Oak!"
What surprised me was that when selecting the 10 masterpieces this time, I was able to recall each one smoothly, without looking at any reference material, from the appearance of the watch to the excitement I felt when I first touched it, just like a collection of famous scenes from a movie. Just like being able to instantly recall the scent of someone you fell in love with.
From the Royal Oak to high jewelry watches, Audemars Piguet's creations, which live vividly in our memories, are truly one of a kind, and I was reminded of this. I always tell my female readers that "Audemars Piguet's appeal is not just the Royal Oak!", but in the end, half of the readers were Royal Oaks.
This brilliance is unashamed! The dramatic contrast between the dazzling yellow gold and the vibrant turquoise, and the exquisite size of 37mm. Personally, it was just my type, and it even appeared in my dreams for a while after it was released. Beautiful and stylish, yet intelligent and manly, enjoying life to the fullest - it is an image of the ideal woman that I long for.
Kayo Okamura's "All Time Top 10"
- Royal Oak 15550BA (2023)
- Royal Oak Chronograph 26240BA (2023)
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon 26665SG (2025)
- Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz 67630OR (2024)
- Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon "Tamara Ralph" (2024)
- Remaster 01 Chronograph (2020)
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Automatic 77410BC (2024)
- Millenary 77244OR (2018)
- Sapphire Orb (2019)
- Royal Oak 5402ST (1972)
Tetsuo Shinoda: "A wide range of innovative models that will inspire your desire to own one"
The reason I chose it as number one is because I own it, but the 39mm size is amazing. In second place is the Offshore Chronograph, which I thought about buying for a long time. The models that follow are also ones that I want, and are highly innovative in the watch industry.
The first Royal Oak Concept model was the starting point for fusing a complicated mechanism with a sports watch, and the CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet two-tone model impressed with its use of case structure. The ninth and tenth places are round and square models, which haven't been seen in a while. I'm sure there are many people who would be very happy if these were expanded.
The black dial Ref. 15300 I bought about 15 years ago is my benchmark for a "good watch." The polished finish of the case and bracelet, the thinness of the case, and the balance of the center of gravity are all impeccable. It wasn't particularly popular when I bought it, but before I knew it, it had become a popular model. It's a masterpiece, and I want to show off my discerning eye for it.
Tetsuo Shinoda's "All Time Top 10"
- Royal Oak 15300ST (2005)
- Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26237ST (2018)
- Royal Oak Concept 25980 (2002)
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Automatic 15210QT (2023)
- Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT 26589IO (2018)
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel 15212NB (2022)
- Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie 26577TI (2016)
- Royal Oak Chronograph 26715ST (2023)
- Jules Audemars Extra-Thin (2010)
- Edouard Piguet Tourbillon (2004)
Masaharu Nabata: "Seeing the watch in person brings back the excitement I felt at the time."
Choosing 10 models from Audemars Piguet's long history is an extremely tough task. However, I managed to select them by looking through the Audemars Piguet history books and online information I had at hand. While there were many models I had only seen in documents, the Grand Complication, manufactured by Audemars Piguet in 1899 and supplied to a German watch manufacturer, was a memorable piece I saw in person at the Glashütte Watch Museum.
I also have vivid memories of actually operating and listening to the 2016 Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie and being impressed by its wonderful tone.
It took Audemars Piguet's craftsmen four years to complete this ultra-complicated watch, which features 21 functions, including a minute repeater, split-second chronograph, and perpetual calendar. I saw this watch with my own eyes in 2008 while reporting on the Glashütte Watch Museum, and was overwhelmed by its size and beauty, as well as the splendor of its neatly organized displays.
Nabata Masaru's "All Time Top 10"
- Grand Complication (1899)
- Jumping Hour (1930)
- Perpetual Calendar 5516 (1955)
- 5159BA (1960)
- Royal Oak 5402ST (1972)
- Perpetual Calendar 5548 (1978)
- Ultra-thin automatic tourbillon 25643BA (1986)
- Jules Audemars Grand Complication (1996)
- Royal Oak Concept 25980 (2002)
- Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie 26577TI (2016)
Koichi Namiki: "The image of the brand as a complicated watch remains unchanged to this day."
I chose these from my direct memories of the past 30 years and from the most memorable archives. My first visit to the headquarters in 1994 was to see how an automatic tourbillon is made. Thanks to the impression of Mr. N, a Japanese man who worked in the complicated watch department, my impression of AP as a brand of complicated watches has remained to this day.
I have always been drawn to the style of the Royal Oak, and my passion for the Royal Oak Offshore was most strongly fueled when Alinghi won the America's Cup in 2007. Before I started writing about Swiss watches, I was a supervisor for a TV special on yachting, and the memory of the unexpected connection between the two watches remains vivid.
Since this watch was created when I was still in elementary school, the feeling I have for it is not nostalgia but the utmost respect. How was such a stylish watch conceived and created more than half a century ago? I later had the opportunity to speak with Mr. Genta in Switzerland, but I never dared to ask him. Perhaps I was afraid that the answer would be different from the story I had woven in my mind.
Koichi Namiki's "All Time Top 10"
- Royal Oak 5402ST (1972)
- Ultra-thin automatic tourbillon 25643BA (1986)
- Jules Audemars Tourbillon 25964OR (2001)
- Edouard Piguet Tourbillon 26009BC (2005)
- Diamantissimo 79410BC (2006)
- Millenary 15320BC (2006)
- Royal Oak Offshore Team Alinghi Limited Edition Carbon 26062FS (2007)
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel 15212NB (2022)
- Remaster 02 Automatic (2024)
- Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin 16202BC (2023)
Shigeru Sugawara: "I've been reminded that it's a brand of complicated watches."
Throughout its long history, Audemars Piguet is best known for its complicated timepieces. In recent years, the brand's technical achievements have been centered around its two major collections: the Royal Oak and the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. However, the brand has also produced many other masterpieces in the past.
The perpetual calendars and repeaters (and sonneries) are particularly interesting, as they constantly remind us that, no matter the era, this complicated watch brand was founded by two watchmakers.
This rare model, which was released in 1955 and only nine were made, is notable for being the first wristwatch to feature a perpetual calendar with leap year display. Its easy-to-read dial design, with all time and calendar indications displayed by hands, also became a "classic" design that is still used in the current Royal Oak and CODE 11.59 models.
Shigeru Sugawara's "All Time Top 10"
- Edouard Piguet Perpetual Calendar (2000s)
- Extra Flat (1979)
- John Schaefer Minute Repeater (1907)
- Perpetual Calendar 5516 (1955)
- Ultra-thin automatic tourbillon 25643BA (1986)
- Star Wheel (1990s)
- Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie 26591IT (2023)
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Chronograph 26393BC (2019)
- Royal Oak 5402ST (1972)
- Remaster 01 Chronograph (2020)
Norio Takagi "Top 10 masterpieces of innovative and outstanding design"
Since I began covering watches, I have learned a lot about mechanisms from Audemars Piguet. I heard the sound of a minute repeater for the first time, and learned about the existence of the equation of time and the various types of escapements. From among these, including vintage models, I have selected 10 masterpieces that I have actually held in my hands and that have impressed me, as being highly innovative or having outstanding design.
I personally appreciate their stance of evolving the mechanism using only metal, without resorting to silicon. I sincerely hope for the reappearance of the AP escapement and the revival of Jules Audemars, Millenary, and Tradition.
Having had the opportunity to operate the actual watch in Le Brassus, I was convinced that this was the birth of a masterpiece. The fact that each date in the perpetual calendar can be individually adjusted using only the crown is extremely user-friendly. Although the mechanism is quite complex, using oscillating pinions and cams, the feel of operation is excellent. It is also surprising that this was achieved through machining alone.
Norio Takagi's "All Time Top 10"
- Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26674ST (2025)
- Royal Oak 5402ST (1972)
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra Complications Universelle (RD#4) 26398BC (2023)
- Jules Audemars Extra-Thin 15180BC (2010)
- Ultra-thin automatic tourbillon 25643BA (1986)
- Jules Audemars Equation of Time (2000)
- Tradition of Excellence Cabinet No. 5 Millenary Perpetual Calendar Deadbeat Seconds Power Reserve (2006)
- Royal Oak Concept CW1 Araclite (2002)
- John Schaefer Minute Repeater Starwheel (1995)
- Jules Audemars Chronometer Audemars Piguet Escapement (2011)
Masamasa Hirota: "The works I selected have outstanding movement."
Audemars Piguet, which is celebrating its 150th anniversary since its founding, has countless masterpieces. These include unique pieces made from the company's founding up until the 1950s, watches with bold designs from the 60s onwards, and the Royal Oak from 72. However, this time we have chosen to focus on watches with excellent movements.
I struggled to decide, but my top pick is undoubtedly the Universelle. The ultra-thin automatic tourbillon from 1986 is also a brilliant attempt in the history of watches. The design that deserves attention is the CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. Its innovation, which completely reimagined a basic model, is sure to be highly praised in the future.
Audemars Piguet has combined unprecedented functionality with an excellent interface. Despite this, the case is still within a reasonable size. Moreover, the exceptional wearing comfort that is unique to the CODE 11.59 is no exception, even in this ultra-high-performance watch. It is a remarkable achievement that, after nearly a quarter century of development of the in-house movement, it has developed into a unique watch. The price is also reasonable considering what's inside.
Masamasa Hirota's "All Time Top 10"
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra Complications Universelle (RD#4) 26398BC (2023)
- Royal Oak 5402ST (1972)
- Ultra-thin automatic tourbillon 25643BA (1986)
- VZSS (1950s)
- Perpetual Calendar 5548 (1978)
- CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Automatic 15210BC (2019)
- Star Wheel (1990s)
- Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie (RD#1) (2015)
- Remaster 02 Automatic (2024)
- Royal Oak Concept Laptimer (2015)
Yutaka Fukuda "10 brands that will amaze you with their innovativeness"
The ten watches are all wristwatches, selected in chronological order. Looking at these ten, one is once again struck by the innovativeness of Audemars Piguet. The most notable example of this is their continued production of the Grande Sonnerie as a series. There is no other watch brand in the world that does this.
There are also many masterpieces among minute repeaters. The Supersonnerie is a cutting-edge innovation. The perpetual calendar and Equation of Time are also pioneering models. The Royal Oak is also outstanding for establishing a new genre called "luxury sports watches." This is a masterpiece that truly revolutionized the watch industry and represents Audemars Piguet.
Caliber 2121/2120 is a masterpiece that represents Audemars Piguet. It is also renowned as the basis for ultra-complex mechanisms. It is also notable that it was used in the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and 222. In other words, the ultra-thinness of the 2121 created the prototype of luxury sports watches, making a thin watch appear three-dimensional, and the 5271 was the first to feature this movement. It is a historic masterpiece.
Yutaka Fukuda's "All Time Top 10"
- VZSS (1950s)
- 5271 (1967)
- Royal Oak 5402ST (1972)
- Perpetual Calendar 5548 (1978)
- Ultra-thin automatic tourbillon 25643BA (1986)
- Jules Audemars Ladies' Minute Repeater Carrion (1996)
- Jules Audemars Dynamograph (1999)
- Jules Audemars Equation of Time (2000)
- Millenary Audemars Piguet Escapement Deadbeat Seconds (2007)
- Jules Audemars Minute Repeater Supersonnerie (2017)
