Zenith, celebrating its 160th anniversary, unveiled four special new models at Watches & Wonders Geneve 2025. The highlight is the "GFJ," a reproduction of the legendary Cal. 135 movement.
Reproduction of "GFJ" Cal.135
The year 20025 marks the 160th anniversary of Zenith's founding. To celebrate this milestone, the legendary Caliber 135 movement has been reissued and released as part of the new "GFJ" collection. Let's take a look back at the glorious history of the original Caliber 135.
Manual winding (Cal. 135). 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.15 mm, thickness 10.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 6,952,000 yen (tax included).
Before the 1960s, competitions held by observatories were considered extremely important, with many brands and workshops entering to demonstrate their skills. Zenith, founded in 1865, had been participating in competitions since 1897, and one movement that achieved particularly outstanding results was the Cal. 135.
Between 1949 and 1962, Cal. 135 was produced as a commercial model and as Cal. 135-O for chronometer testing at the observatory. The "135" refers to the maximum size permitted in the wristwatch category at the Nutéchal Observatory Competition (13 lignes, or 30 mm), indicating a thickness of 5 mm. Since larger diameter movements generally provide more stable and accurate movements, Cal. 135 was likely designed with competition entry in mind. The Cal. 135-O, manufactured and tuned for competitions, won a total of 235 chronometry awards and achieved the remarkable feat of winning first place in the Nutéchal Observatory's wristwatch category for five consecutive years from 1950 to 1954. It's no exaggeration to call Cal. 135 legendary.
This year, the Cal. 135 is being reissued. It retains the same size, appearance, and structure as the original, with the adoption of an offset center wheel in particular being a notable design feature, allowing for more space to accommodate a large balance wheel for high precision. It's not just a simple reissue; through subtle design improvements, such as optimizing the geometry of the gear train teeth and using updated materials, the power reserve has been increased from approximately 40 hours on the original to approximately 72 hours. A stop-seconds hand has also been added, and the daily rate has been adjusted to within ±2 seconds.
The Caliber 135 will be installed in the new collection "GFJ," named after Zenith's founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. The overall design incorporates the essence of the 1950s, when the Caliber 135 was popular, while maintaining a modern and sophisticated impression. The dial, which features a small seconds hand, is simple and based on straight lines, and is entirely Zenith's signature color, blue. The outer ring surrounding the dial is decorated with a "brick" guilloched pattern and faceted white gold indexes, while the center is set in deep blue lapis lazuli.
Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition
To celebrate its 160th anniversary, Zenith will be adding a commemorative model to its iconic Pilot collection: the Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition. Zenith was one of the first to recognize the growing use of watches in the aviation industry, and filed trademark applications for the French word "Pilote" in 1888 and the English word "Pilot" in 1904. Since then, pilot models have been a part of the brand's lineup for a long time.
Automatic movement (Cal. El Primero 3652). 26 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 42.5mm, thickness 14.25mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 160 pieces worldwide. Price: 3,102,000 yen (tax included).
The current Pilot collection was revamped in 2023, and this commemorative model is based on it, finished in a single tone of Zenith's signature blue. The round case and gently sloping lugs create a case shape that blends classic and modern, while the horizontally embossed dial, reminiscent of the metal sheets used in the exteriors of past aircraft, is a design code that runs throughout the collection. The case of this model is crafted from blue ceramic with a micro-blasted matte finish.
This model is equipped with the Caliber El Primero 3652, an evolution of Zenith's iconic high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. At the 6 o'clock position, there is a big date display with a double disc, which features an extremely short switching time of less than 0.007 seconds, and it is equipped with a Layback chronograph mechanism with a central chronograph second hand and a 30-minute counter at the 3 o'clock position.
This model will be limited to 160 pieces worldwide to commemorate the 160th anniversary of the company's founding. The straps included are a blue Cordura-effect rubber strap for a coordinating look, and a white Cordura-effect strap for a refreshing impression.
"DEFY Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition"
The Defy Skyline Chronograph, which blends tradition and modernity, will also be available in a commemorative model celebrating the brand's 160th anniversary: the Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition. This model is also limited to 160 pieces worldwide. The current Defy Skyline collection is a modern reinterpretation of the octagonal form of the 1969 Defy Ref. A3642. The model features a silhouette that combines an architectural, three-dimensional case with a multi-faceted bezel.
Automatic movement (Cal. El Primero 3600). 35 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 42mm, thickness 12.7mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 160 pieces worldwide. Price: 3,102,000 yen (tax included).
This model, finished in a single blue tone common to the 160th anniversary model, is equipped with the Caliber El Primero 3600, a modern version of the traditional automatic high-frequency chronograph movement. Its distinctive feature is that the central chronograph second hand rotates once every 10 seconds, allowing it to measure time in 1/10th of a second increments.
The case and bracelet are made of blue ceramic, which has a distinctive luster and is lightweight and scratch-resistant.The watch also features an easy-to-operate quick strap change system integrated into the case, allowing it to be easily replaced with the included blue rubber strap.
"Chronomaster Sports 160th Anniversary Edition"
Zenith's Chronograph tradition continues with the modern, sporty chic Chronomaster Sport, and the Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition, a commemorative model celebrating the 160th anniversary of the company's founding, will be added. Like the other models, this model will be limited to 160 pieces worldwide.
Automatic movement (Cal. El Primero 3600). 35 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 160 pieces worldwide. Price: 3,102,000 yen (tax included).
The Chronomaster Sports was released in 2021 at the same time as the Caliber El Primero 3600, a revamped version of the traditional El Primero. Capable of measuring 1/10th of a second with a central chronograph second hand that rotates once every 10 seconds, the Chronomaster Sports is a model unique to Zenith, a brand that has contributed to technological innovation in automatic mechanical chronograph movements.
This model is the first Chronomaster Sports watch to be crafted from blue ceramic. The case features a combination of brushed and polished finishes, highlighting the modern case shape. The three subdials, painted in three different colors, are carried over from the previous model and are now blue, gray, and silver, aiding in legibility.
