After luxury sports watches became a huge hit and became a standard, dress watches are gaining attention as a new trend. This classic genre, which was once somewhat difficult to use, has now dramatically evolved to become more practical. We revisited this new era of dress watches in the January 2024 issue (Vol. 110) of Chronos Japan. This feature article has been republished on webChronos. From this issue onwards, we will explore this genre using specific models as case studies. The first one is Patek Philippe's Calatrava.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Tomoshige Kase, Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan), Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]
Case Study: Patek Philippe
It is equipped with a hand-wound movement with a small seconds hand, a rarity these days. The case is larger at 39mm in diameter, but the position of the small seconds hand is appropriate. The strap is wide compared to the case size, and the lugs curve downward, making it a typical Calatrava. Hand-wound (Cal. 30-255 PS). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 39mm, thickness 8.08mm). Water resistant to 3 bar.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119, released in 2021, is a model that embodies the company's vision of the future of dress watches. The combination of a thin, hand-wound case and a small seconds hand is a classic dress watch design. However, a closer look at the details reveals Patek Philippe's vision of a new era of dress watches.
Patek Philippe "Calatrava 6119"
The Calatrava (1932), with its lugs integrated into the case, was a masterpiece that transcended the boundaries of a dress watch and perfected wristwatch design. In response, other manufacturers sought designs distinct from the Calatrava, devising innovative designs for the lugs and case. One notable example of this "classic" Calatrava is the 2021 Calatrava 6119. It can be said to be a direct descendant of the Calatrava, combining the 3919, released in 1985, its successor, the 5119, and the 5196, which inherited the legacy of the '96 from 32. The bezel with its Clous de Paris pattern is inspired by the former, while the lugs and bar indexes integrated into the case are inspired by the latter.
This model is not equipped with an automatic movement, but rather with the hand-wound Caliber 30-255 PS. This is also the successor to the Caliber 215 PS that powered the 5119 and 5196. Incidentally, Patek Philippe has used the 215 PS as its core hand-wound caliber for many years. While it remains a masterpiece, its 21.9mm diameter doesn't suit the larger case. The company tried various measures to improve the appearance of the small seconds, which was moved closer to the center of the dial, such as incorporating a cross-shaped index, but it's hard to say it was a success.
In contrast, Patek Philippe has equipped the new 6119 with the newly designed Caliber 30-255 PS. Its thickness remains the same as the 215 PS at 2.55mm. However, its diameter has been increased to 31mm, significantly extending the power reserve from approximately 44 hours to approximately 65 hours. Despite the near-zero demand for manual-winding movements, Patek Philippe decided to go ahead with the new design because it was intended for use in complications. While thin automatic movements are now commonly used as the base for complicated watches, Patek Philippe prioritized thinness by opting for a manual-winding movement without a rotor. As an added bonus, the 30-255 PS boasts impressive basic performance, unusual for a thin, manual-winding movement, and finally a properly positioned small seconds dial. Furthermore, the circular-grained movement spacer has been eliminated, much to the delight of watch enthusiasts. Incidentally, the balance spring is now made of silicon. Its high magnetic resistance and shock resistance should significantly improve its practicality.
The exterior reveals Patek Philippe's vision for the future of dress watches. The bezel's Clous de Paris pattern is a tradition dating back to the 3919. However, the raised edge of the crystal has been toned down, while the crystal now protrudes more. This is likely to reduce the thickness of the bezel and make the middle case appear thinner. At the same time, the tapering of the lugs has been reduced, giving the watch a more straight-lined appearance when viewed head-on. While the design code itself is classic Calatrava, the strong sense of straight lines when viewed head-on reveals a departure from previous designs. The small seconds dial with a cross in the center, the strongly textured charcoal gray dial of the 18K white gold case version, and the hour and minute hands with an additional surface on top are also attempts to emphasize straight lines.
Many of today's dress watches strive to achieve both thinness and a three-dimensional effect. Patek Philippe is no exception. However, this model distances itself from the somewhat excessive three-dimensional effect seen in models such as the 5227. On the other hand, the 6119, by focusing on the element of straight lines, has succeeded in incorporating a modern feel using a methodology that differs from three-dimensionality. This skill is truly one you'd expect from a long-established brand.
