Jaeger-LeCoultre's Métiers Rare workshop preserves traditional techniques for the Reverso

2025.03.31

From the end of the 18th century, miniature enamel, the art of creating miniature pictures with enamel, flourished in the watch industry, centered in Geneva, Switzerland. Jaeger-LeCoultre's Métiers Rares® workshop continues this traditional technique with the Reverso.

Photograph by Masanori Yoshie
Edited and Text by Chieko Tsuruoka (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]


Wear the thriving Geneva tradition now on your wrist

 Enamel has long been used for a variety of decorative items, and is also closely related to the watch industry. From the end of the 18th century, Geneva, Switzerland, saw the active production of pocket watches decorated with miniature enamel (miniaturized enamel paintings) for special customers.

 There is a wristwatch with this miniature enamel applied to the case, just like the pocket watches that were once produced in Geneva. It is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colors. Taking advantage of the Reverso's unique feature of being able to slide the case over, chevrons and straight lines are applied in Grand Feu enamel on the side opposite the dial. This timepiece is a visual treat, while also featuring this traditional Geneva technique on the wrist.

Reverso One Precious Colors

Reverso One Precious Colors
This model features an 18K white gold case decorated with a chevron pattern of varying shades of green in Grand Feu enamel. It is set with 277 diamonds (approximately 1.6 carats), further enhancing its exclusivity. Manual winding (Cal. 846). 18 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. 18KWG (40mm x 20mm, 9.09mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price upon request.

 This precise geometric pattern in enamel was realized by Jaeger-LeCoultre's Métiers Rares® workshop. This piece features a seamless pattern that flows from the flat surface to the rounded case side. It is extremely difficult to ensure that the glaze on the side adheres to the case, and then apply it evenly and without unevenness to the rounded surface, just as it did to the flat surface, and then fire it. The straight line pattern must be drawn with an extremely fine brush, demonstrating the high level of skill of the enamellers at this workshop.

Reverso One Precious Colors

Reverso One Precious Colors
This model features an 18K pink gold case with blue Grand Feu enamel. The enameling process takes approximately 80 hours, including up to 15 firings and multiple drying stages at 200°C, and approximately 45 hours to set the 277 diamonds (approximately 1.6 carats). Manual winding (Cal. 846). 18 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. 18KPG (40mm x 20mm, 9.09mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price upon request.

 The vivid color scheme is also noteworthy. Grand Feu enamel is fired at high temperatures, which requires repeated firing and strict temperature control, and any misreading would immediately change the color of the glaze. This piece, with its vivid and uniformly painted shades of green or blue, is a feat that, as the name Métiers Rhônes suggests, could not have been achieved without the "artisan's skill."

 The Reverso One Precious Colors, which does not rely on the latest machine tools or design technology, is a timepiece that truly allows you to experience the traditions that have flourished in Geneva, both in terms of its design and manufacturing methods.


Contact info: Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833


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