A review of the King Seiko KS1969, a timeless dress watch that has been revived!

We review the Ref. SDKA017, one of the "King Seiko KS1969" models released in 2024. This model inherits the design of the classic model born in 1969, and is a dressy King Seiko that combines a highly legible matte silver dial with a thin case.

The Resurrection of the King Seiko 45KCM

　This time, we'll be reviewing the King Seiko Ref. SDKA017, which was released in 2024. This model, which was released as part of the "King Seiko KS1969" series, follows the design of the "45KCM," which, as its name suggests, was born in 1969. The 45KCM is a model characterized by a rounded cushion-shaped case and a high-frequency hand-wound movement that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, and is highly popular in the antique market.

　Until the arrival of the KS1969, the current King Seiko lineup consisted of models based on the design of the 1965 "KSK." Compared to the KSK, which combined sturdy, thick lugs with imposing dauphine-style hour and minute hands, the KS1969, with its mirror-finished case and baton-style hour and minute hands, gave off a slightly dressier impression. Its unique character quickly earned the KS1969 recognition as the second pillar of the current King Seiko line. Let's get our hands on one and explore its appeal.

A matte silver dial that combines elegance and practicality

　The dial, which combines bar indexes with bar hands and has a date display at 3 o'clock, has a very simple structure. However, although it may seem ordinary at first glance, its dignified presence makes it truly worthy of being called a "king."

　The greatest element in creating this sense of dignified tension is the three-dimensional indexes. The way they sparkle in the light is the result of the smooth mirror surface on the top of the indexes and the cuts on their edges. Rather than shining brightly, they emit a more subdued light, evoking a sense of modest Japanese beauty. The index at 12 o'clock is engraved with a diagonal, multi-faceted cut, adding an accent to the dial. This pattern is inspired by the feathers of an arrow flying straight towards the target.

　The hour and minute hands are equally expressive. Initially, they looked a little flat in the images, but seeing them in person made me realize that this impression was incorrect. The hour and minute hands have cuts on both sides that capture and reflect light, creating a three-dimensional effect. The long, slender second hand has a thin and delicate appearance, but even when looking at the side, there are no visible burrs, and the tip is even bent.

　The texture of the date window is also high quality. The slightly thicker frame, which enhances the presence of the date display, may be a matter of personal preference, but there are no burrs, and the inner slope has a sandy texture that improves visibility.

　The biggest factor that gives this watch a calm impression is its slightly rough, matte silver color. It doesn't shine too brightly when light catches it. The dial elements are all in the same color, yet still maintain excellent legibility. This is likely due to the contrast created by giving the indexes and hands a polished finish and the dial a matte finish. The Seiko logo at 12 o'clock and the print at 6 o'clock can also be clearly seen. According to the brand, the dial is "a newly developed embossed pattern based on the modern cityscape of Tokyo."

　The crystal is a box-shaped sapphire crystal. Looking at the dial from an angle, it gives off a plump, retro impression, but it's not overly protruding. It doesn't have a forced vintage feel, but blends naturally into the design.

Iconic cushion-shaped case

　The cushion-shaped case, contrasting with the simple dial, expresses the KS1969's unique character. Rather than a design in which the lugs protrude from the round middle case, the lugs and middle case are completely integrated, creating a flowing form. However, what surprised me when I held the watch in person was its dual nature. From above, it has a rounded, soft impression, but when viewed from the side at an angle, the sharply cut-off tops of the lugs, the edges running down the case sides, and the flat bezel give it a sharp, blade-like tension. There are many watches with similar cushion-shaped cases known as "C-lines." However, this watch still exudes a strong individuality. It reminds us that iconic design is not born from the pursuit of eccentricity.

　The entire case, except for the case back and the underside of the lugs, is polished. The image reflected there is undistorted, just like a mirror. As a result, it reflects light quite well, but strangely enough, it doesn't feel flashy. Perhaps the matte silver dial neutralizes the overall shine of the watch.

　What's particularly noteworthy about the case is its thinness. The catalogue says it's 9.9mm, but the extremely thin case back and the sloping lines on the top of the lugs make it appear even thinner than that. Seiko calls this an "elegant dress watch," and the thin, elegant case fits easily under a shirt sleeve, and doesn't get caught when taking it in or out.

　The crown, which is partially recessed into the middle case, is a standard size for an automatic watch. It has a non-slip groove and features the King Seiko shield logo on top. Perhaps due to the case design, it is easy to grip with your fingers and gives the impression of excellent operability.

　The King Seiko logo is also engraved in the center of the case back. Although the solid case back prevents you from seeing the movement inside, the smooth feel of the hairline finish will likely contribute to an improved wearing experience.

　The bracelet is made of 13 stainless steel links. The dressy design seen in the 1960s matches the characters in this work perfectly. The links have a polished and hairline finish, so light reflects off the watch with every movement, creating a sense of dynamism.

　The links appear to be connected using a C-ring system. Considering the price range, I would have preferred screws, but the C-ring system may have been the best option to achieve the appropriate looseness, thinness, and flexibility that is characteristic of a dress watch. Many bracelets have links that can be removed to adjust the wrist size, and links that are welded and cannot be removed. In this case, if a welded link comes off, the entire bracelet must be replaced, which can be a costly repair, but this model is made up of all removable links, so there is less need to worry about that.

　The buckle is a double-sided type that opens and closes with a push button. When closed, the buckle is not noticeable, which is a key feature of this dress watch.

Slim automatic mechanical movement, Cal.6L35

　The thin case is made possible by the Cal. 6L35 movement. It boasts the thinnest movement among Seiko's current automatic mechanical movements, boasting an accuracy of +15 to -10 seconds per day. While a thinner watch typically reduces the movement's rigidity, the Cal. 6L35 overcomes this by revising its materials, hardness, and finish. While the power reserve of approximately 45 hours may feel a little lacking, the Cal. 6L35 is a well-balanced movement, combining thinness, precision, and durability. Compared to the Cal. 6R series of popular models, the watch also features more decorative details, such as stripes on the bridge, but this model does not have a see-through caseback, making these unfortunate.

　The operation method is the same as a typical automatic three-hand movement with a date function. With the crown fully pushed in, wind the mainspring; pull it out one notch to fast-forward the date; and then pull it out one more notch to adjust the time. The manual winding feel is certainly more pleasant than that of the Caliber 6R series. While the Caliber 6R series has a jingling feel, the Caliber 6L35 has a more twangy feel. Turning the hands when adjusting the time is also a pleasant experience. The moderate weight prevents the hands from wobbling, and there's no noticeable change in torque whether you turn the crown forward or backward. Even fast-forwarding the date allows for a satisfying, satisfying feel. The attention paid to even the feel that goes beyond the specs makes this a truly luxury watch. While it would have been nice to see a 10-beat manual winding movement, following the original's characteristics, this watch offers plenty of appeal to make up for that.

A versatile and dressy bracelet watch

　This watch combines a thin case, a low center of gravity, a smooth solid back, and a flexible bracelet. When you actually put it on your wrist, you'll be impressed by how comfortable it is. After wearing it for a while, you'll forget you're wearing it. Even in appearance, it incorporates some retro elements, such as the bracelet design and box-shaped sapphire crystal, but it doesn't feel outdated. A cushion-shaped case with a diameter of 39.4mm may seem a little large for a dress watch, but with a short vertical length of just 43.6mm, it doesn't make an overly bold statement on the wrist.

　As mentioned above, the dial is very easy to read. The matte silver dial not only makes the indices and hands appear to be floating, but also gives the watch a calm impression. It looks classic yet a little unique. It also has the potential to be a very practical dress watch.

King Seiko is steadily expanding

　King Seiko made its modern-day comeback in 2021. Technically, it was still a limited edition model in 2021, and it wasn't until 2022 that it became a regular model. However, over the past few years, King Seiko has rapidly grown into one of Seiko's most iconic collections. Initially, the lineup consisted solely of designs based on the 1965 KSK, but in 2024, models based on the 45KCM design, including the SDKA017 reviewed here, were released, raising even greater expectations for King Seiko's future. This may have also served as a catalyst for drawing attention to the King Seiko of the 1960s and 1970s.

　And just recently, the new "Banack" was announced. It may seem like a surprising choice, but the fashionable and sporty Banack fills a gap in the current King Seiko collection. It's also interesting that it incorporates new ideas, such as a 10-bar water-resistant case with a screw-down crown and the robust, highly accurate Cal. 8L45 movement.

　The KS1969 adds new appeal to the collection and maintains its iconic design. However, it is merely one aspect of King Seiko. There is surely still much of the charm of the old King Seiko hidden within. It will be exciting to see how King Seiko develops in the future and continue its history.