Watch enthusiast and watch writer Shun Horiuchi reviews the new Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Ref. SARH001, released in 2024. In this article, Horiuchi examines this model from the perspective of how well it balances cost, quality, and originality.
Photographs & Text by Shun Horiuchi
[Article published on January 9, 2025]
Seiko Presage "Craftsmanship Series" Ref. SARH001 Review
In my previous review of the Seiko Presage "Classic Series" Ref. SARX121, I titled it "An excellent daily watch with no flaws in any aspect, recommended for everyone." This article is also about the GMT model from the Seiko Presage "Craftsmanship Series" with a lacquered dial. Aside from the dial, there are many other differences from the Classic Series, and I would like to share my impressions after using it thoroughly.
The first GMT watch in the "Craftsmanship Series"
Seiko's Presage collection combines a sophisticated exterior design that reflects Japanese aesthetics with a high-quality mechanical movement. Its unique appeal is the combination of traditional Japanese craftsmanship and a mechanical watch, and its luxurious finish despite being relatively affordable. The collection ranges from entry-level models in the tens of thousands of yen to high-end models costing around 30 yen, and there are many models that even enthusiasts who already enjoy mechanical watches will want to try.
Within the Seiko Presage line, the Craftsmanship Series is positioned as the top model, featuring models that utilize traditional Japanese techniques for the dial. These "traditional Japanese techniques" include enamel, cloisonné, and even the lacquer model featured in this review, all of which are highly popular. While the majority of the collection is made up of three-hand watches, the lineup also includes models with additional functions such as a GMT and power reserve display, as seen in this model, making this a collection primarily intended for everyday use, including business settings.
The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship series highlights traditional Japanese craftsmanship and promotes Japanese beauty through mechanical watches. This is the first model in the series to feature a lacquered dial with a GMT function. Automatic movement (Cal. 6R54). 24 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.2mm, thickness 12.4mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 243,100 yen (tax included).
What are the details of this model?
Before sharing my impressions of wearing it, let's take a closer look at the watch itself. With watches like this one, which have a certain upper price limit and are mass-produced to a certain extent, the key is knowing where to spend money to create distinctive features and how to balance the overall package, all while maintaining a certain level of profitability. This kind of feat is the specialty of large, established manufacturers accustomed to making watches, and I feel it's an area where newcomers can't easily compete. Perhaps examining the balance between quality, cost, and originality is one way to enjoy the watch hobby. Below, I'd like to look at this model from the perspective of this "balance."
A close look at the dial and hands
Let's start by looking at the dial, which is likely the most distinctive feature and the one on which the greatest expense has been spent. The manufacturer touts it as a "dazzlingly lustrous lacquer dial," and I think it truly lives up to that description. As they say, "By repeatedly applying and polishing the lacquer dozens of times, the unique lustrous, deep expression of lacquer is created." The finish is very "glossy" and glossy, and the smooth dimples around the date window and the central axis of the hands are clearly visible in the reflection of light. It's by no means an attempt to be "perfectly flat," but rather a smooth, glossy finish that is enjoyed for its expression. Therefore, rather than the rigid, uniform texture of an industrial product, it's a dial that offers a sense of handcraftedness.
What particularly impressed me were the indices. If the watch were to feature shiny indices like those found on Grand Seiko watches, the lacquer finish likely lacks absolute surface precision, resulting in uneven surface flatness (know what I mean? The reflection of light would reveal whether the tops of the 12 indices form the same plane, or whether the individual indices are even), potentially creating a cheap look. However, these indices are finished with an exquisitely matte white finish, and the indices are subtly curved, meaning they are not flat. This means that even if the indices' tops were uneven, almost no one would notice. The thin white indices, along with the white hour and minute hands, create the effect of appearing to stand out against the jet-black dial.
The seconds track on the outer edge of the dial, which matches the color of the second and GMT hands, and the Arabic numerals for the 24-hour display are also extremely delicate, and the gold "PRESAGE AUTOMATIC 3DAYS GMT" inscription is clear and beautiful. Personally, I prefer this font over the "HI-BEAT" font used on Grand Seiko models.
The gold-colored second hand is extremely thin and elegant, and has a crescent-shaped counterweight common to the Craftsmanship series. The GMT hand is a slender spade, with a blasted finish that deliberately dulls the shine so as not to interfere with reading the white-painted hour and minute hands. While the three-hand Craftsmanship model has leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, this model features both a spade-shaped GMT hand and hour hand. The balance is excellent, with the white and gold clearly separating their roles on the lacquered black dial, making the use of the black, white, and gold colors very effective.
The GMT hand rotates once every 24 hours, so the second time zone can be intuitively distinguished between day and night. I personally like the idea of a hand that rotates once every 24 hours, and it would be possible to create a variation of a watch that deliberately removes the regular hour hand and displays the time in 24 hours. I think it would also be possible to plan a somewhat military-style Arabic numeral design. What do you think?
The dial conveys a sophisticated design and a sense of handcrafted work, and it's clear that a lot of money has been spent on it, and I think it's a success.
Points of concern along with "mean shots"
So far, I've been mostly praising the watch, but honestly, I feel the cost cap is showing in the case. This case appears to have been pressed into one piece, even the lugs, and the only area where the finish feels lacking on this model is the outside of the lugs. Though well-polished, there are vertical scratches from the pressing that haven't been completely removed. However, they're barely visible in a photograph, so if you don't mind, it's fine. The inside of the lugs on the opposite side still retain the pressing marks, but if they were to be reworked to this extent, it would have significantly increased the price. On the flip side, the only thing I noticed about the case was the lug finish; the bezel, which is made up of separate parts, is also excellent. The tops of the lugs are beautifully satin-finished, which makes the finish on the sides all the more disappointing.
The case itself is not cylindrical, but has a curved shape and is well polished. There is no distortion in this shape, and it feels like the quality is sufficient for this model's price range. The bezel is a separate part that is finished without distortion, and it serves as a design accent when viewed from the side, while also creating a slim, intelligent look when viewed from above.
Unexpected benefits of the windshield
The crown is a standard Seiko Presage item with an "S" mark. The Classic Series models I reviewed previously had an embossed "S," but this model has an engraved finish, which is different. The crowns of the Craftsmanship Series, which use traditional craft dials, all have this engraved design.
The crystal is not flat, but subtly domed, which actually has a significant effect. This model has four central hands due to the addition of a GMT function, making the watch itself thicker than a three-hand watch. With four hands, it's not possible to space the hands closely together, and gaps are visible when viewed at an angle. However, by using a slightly domed dual-curve sapphire crystal, the gaps are less noticeable when viewed at an angle. The hour and minute hands' edges are intentionally thick, designed to make the gaps less noticeable.
Detail from the case back
The case back is see-through, revealing the Cal. 6R54 movement with a gold-stripe rotor. The diameter of the crystal is smaller than that of the Classic Series, which I previously reviewed, and at first glance it felt like it contained a small movement. Conversely, the Classic Series gave the impression that the movement was surprisingly large, so human perception is simple. It would be worth exploring how to create a design that takes this "illusion" into account and matches the movement and case size in a natural way.
The black calfskin strap is made from leather produced by an LWG (Leather Working Group) certified tanner and comes in a relatively long size (up to 19.5cm) that can accommodate people with thick wrists. The watch itself is a little large for a dress watch, measuring 40.2mm in diameter and 12.4mm thick, so the strap is also of a reasonable thickness, creating a good balance.
The buckle is a one-push three-fold type. The length and radius of this buckle vary depending on the manufacturer and model, and this Seiko model has a radius that gets tighter towards the 12 o'clock side. It doesn't fit particularly well on my slender wrist, which is only 15cm long, but if I change the strap at 6 o'clock to a shorter one, it should probably be fine. The sides of the buckle are mirror-finished, and the top is satin-finished with the "SEIKO" logo engraved on it, which I feel is a satisfactory finish for this price range. It's easy to fasten and remove with just one touch.
Does this model achieve "high-level balance"?
As a watch with a price cap, how does it achieve the "balance" mentioned at the beginning? The eye-catching smooth lacquer dial and printing have been produced at a reasonable cost, and the hands and design are also excellent, using delicate parts. On the other hand, the movement is the general-purpose Cal. 6R54. However, the eye-catching rotor has a striped finish, and the pressed case is also polished. The quality of the strap and buckle is also above average, and the overall balance can be described as "an exquisite balance that shows off the good points while, of course, not overpowering them." With this construction, the selling price of 243,100 yen (tax included) is indeed high cost performance.
The only thing I noticed was the finish on the side of the lugs, and with a little more investment, I think this watch would have been exceptionally well-balanced. Of course, if it bothers you, you can always have it refinished at a watch repair shop. While it's more difficult than simply replacing a strap or buckle, it's also possible to work on the watch itself. This is how watch enthusiasts grow.
What are your impressions when wearing it for everyday use?
This model is a slightly larger dress watch, likely suitable for work. Accuracy was just +10 seconds after the first five days of continuous use, then +30 seconds (cumulative) over the next 10 days. Over the first five days, the average was +2 seconds per day, followed by +4 seconds per day over the next five days, an excellent result. Experience has shown that watches that have just come off the production line or that have not been used for a while often stabilize slightly more quickly than initially after about a week of use. This particular watch, once well-seasoned, maintains an accuracy of +3 to +4 seconds per day, far exceeding the catalog value. The dial is easy to read with just a glance, and the GMT and second hands are also easily visible with careful attention, thanks to the exquisite balance of color and design.
However, because I have thin wrists, I had one problem: the strap and buckle were quite thick, and even after adjusting to the appropriate length, the circumference of the entire watch measured about 20.8cm, which did not fit around the cuff of my left arm (20.5cm) of my usual dress shirts. This meant that I could only wear it with ready-made shirts or casual attire with a loose cuff, which was a real frustration.
This isn't a problem for users who don't normally wear dress shirts. However, as a watch with a design and functions that make it easy to use at work, it may spoil some of the standard usage conditions. If I were to buy this watch, I would immediately replace it with a short strap with a pin buckle. Incidentally, when I measured the circumference of a typical dress watch (the "Hentschel H1") that I've had for 20 years while wearing it, it was about 19.0 cm. While the difference is only 1.8 cm, it feels quite different when you're wearing it.
Straps and buckles can be replaced as many times as you like, so users who want to use them as they are can leave them as they are, but changing them to suit your preferences is also part of the watch hobby.
The GMT function is very easy to use; with the crown pulled out one position, turning the GMT hand clockwise advances the hour, and turning it counterclockwise advances the date. It's a very straightforward operation. While I was moving the GMT hand, I realized that this is a Seiko watch that doesn't stand out, and it's perfect for Japanese people traveling abroad. While the GMT hand only moves forward, it's not linked to the date, so it can be operated without hesitation, even during times when the calendar is prohibited from being used. It's also probably less likely to break.
One you should buy while you can
Here are my impressions of the Seiko Presage "Craftsmanship Series" Ref. SARH001.
The design and functionality are excellent, and it's wonderful that this GMT watch, which uses the traditional Japanese lacquering technique, can be purchased for just 243,100 yen (tax included).It is truly a watch that embodies Seiko's true capabilities.
Since it's not a limited edition, there may be a lead time before you can buy one. However, if you recall that the Seiko Presage with its Spring Drive movement and enamel dial was quickly dropped from the catalog, isn't it important to buy a watch while you can?
Profile of Shun Horiuchi
Born in 1968, he has been a watch enthusiast for 30 years, owning a wide range of timepieces, from Swiss-made watches, primarily Jaeger-LeCoultre, to domestic brands like Seiko, and even independent Japanese microbrands, while deepening his knowledge of timepieces. He began working as a watch writer in 2021. Based on his own research, he is currently writing a lengthy article explaining his entire collection, including the lineage of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master, which he is eagerly awaiting for publication. He also has many hobbies outside of watches, including racing cars, roasting his own coffee, and listening to recommended music.
blog:Tokino Tawagoto blog
note:Reverso_suki
