The yellow gold Historiques 222, released in 2022, was highly praised by watch enthusiasts. This was not merely a rehash, but a reinterpretation of the dress watch. Three years later, the established Geneva watchmaker has released a new stainless steel model. While it may seem like just a change in material, what really stands out is the unique positioning that the original was likely aiming for.
Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Sporty yet dress-watch-like
In 1977, Vacheron Constantin unveiled a watch at the Basel Fair to commemorate its 222nd anniversary. Its name was "222." Featuring an integrated case and bracelet and an ultra-thin automatic movement measuring just 3.05mm thick, this ambitious piece was one of the pioneers of what we now call "luxury sports watches."
The impetus for development came from a request made by a retailer in Singapore.
"Can't you make a sporty watch like other companies?" This question was answered by André Gore of Vacheron Constantin. He selected Jorg "Maverick" Hysek, a young 24-year-old, and entrusted him with the design of the new watch. Hysek, who would later be recognized as a leading expert on ergonomics in watch design, already had a clear philosophy regarding the comfort of wearing a watch. Hysek's case and case back were one piece, and the bezel was screwed down to increase water resistance.
The completed 222 was a wristwatch with a thin case just 7mm thick and water resistance of 120m. Although it was not a big commercial success, the superiority of the concept behind this watch was evident from the fact that the later "Overseas" inherited the structure of the 222.
Now, onto the main topic. In 2022, Vacheron Constantin reissued the 222, announcing it as the Historiques 222. However, this was more of a reinterpretation than a simple remake. The case was made of 18K yellow gold. Moreover, the satin finish is a slightly lighter touch that is clearly different from the current Ragstar Sport model, and the dial has been changed to a subdued cream color.
In addition, the bracelet's play has been moderately reduced, and the buckle has been renewed to a high-quality triple-folding type. In other words, what Vacheron Constantin has launched is not a revival of a luxury sports watch, but a "reconstruction" of a dress watch with an integrated bracelet.
The latest addition to the range is the stainless steel 222, which we'll introduce here. While the basic structure is the same as the 2022 model, it's interesting to note that the stainless steel construction further emphasizes its individuality. The original 1977 model actually had a more dressy design than the 72 Royal Oak or the 76 Nautilus.
The Historiques 222, released in 2022, has garnered worldwide acclaim. This model has been reworked in stainless steel. The thin case and lightness make for an exceptionally comfortable fit, while the tapered bracelet adds a dressy touch. The automatic movement has a short power reserve, but feels exceptionally good. Automatic (Cal. 2455/2). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Stainless steel case (37mm diameter, 7.95mm thick). Water resistant to 5 bar. Available exclusively at Vacheron Constantin boutiques. Price: 4,752,000 yen (tax included).
This is evidenced by the bracelet's strong taper at the buckle. The Yzec further evolved the technique favored by Gérald Genta, creating a strong taper comparable to that of dress watches of the past. This is surprising given that later Yzec models favored bracelets with less tapering, but with the thin 222, Vacheron Constantin likely decided that this configuration would not compromise wearing comfort. This is perhaps why Vacheron Constantin redesigned the 2022 Historiques 222 in the context of a dress watch, rather than a "luxury sports" model.
What surprised me about the 2022 18K yellow gold model was how light and comfortable it felt, despite its massive appearance and weight. This was due to the excellent weight balance between the watch body and bracelet. This character is further emphasized in the new stainless steel model. Specifically, the weight reduction makes the watch more comfortable and lighter to wear. What's more, the bracelet, with its moderate amount of play that was so well-received in the 18K yellow gold model, has been retained.
To be honest, I didn't have high expectations for this stainless steel 222. However, I urge all watch enthusiasts to try it on and see how it feels on your wrist. The way this watch is crafted, both as a dress watch and a sports watch, is quite unique, and perhaps that is precisely what makes the 222 so unique. I take my hat off to this long-established company for not letting this reissue end up as a mere revival.
