After joining the LVMH Group, Tiffany has been successfully revitalizing its jewelry business. It has now re-entered the watch business. Now, Tiffany's long-awaited return is clear: a return to jewellery and heritage. The skillful balance is impressive.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Jewelers and a return to heritage
This high jewelry watch is inspired by Tiffany's iconic jewelry. To emphasize the three-dimensional effect, the bird perched on a gemstone has evolved into a bird taking flight. To create the three-dimensional effect, 16 turquoise stones of varying thicknesses are used to represent clouds. A masterpiece from Tiffany. Manually wound (Cal. AFT24T01). 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 18K white gold case (39mm diameter, 11mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Limited to 25 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.
The big attraction at LVMH Watch Week is undoubtedly Tiffany & Co. After a long absence from the show, the brand made a bold return this year, releasing some astonishing new pieces. As many watch enthusiasts know, Tiffany once produced exceptional luxury watches in its own workshop in Geneva. The company later sold the workshop to Patek Philippe, further strengthening its relationship with the brand. Today, the company's watch division aims to return to its roots: ultra-luxury watchmaking.
The most symbolic example of this is the "Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany" jewelry watch, which was inspired by the famous "Bird on a Rock" brooch designed by designer Jean Schlumberger. All four models are luxurious jewelry watches, but the one that stands out the most is the one equipped with a flying tourbillon. Its composition, which emphasizes birds and jewelry, is typical of Tiffany, the jeweler.
A new creation only a jeweler could create. The 36mm 18KWG case and bracelet are set with a total of 1318 round brilliant-cut diamonds, and 30 aquamarines are invisibly set around the dial, where the bird perches. The movement is quartz. The time is adjusted with a pusher on the case. Quartz. 18KWG case (36mm diameter). Limited production. Price upon request.
While you might think this is just the model above made from a different material, it's actually a completely different watch. The case diameter has been enlarged to 39mm, and the movement is an LTM automatic. The dial is eye-catching with 36 baguette-cut tsavorites. The dial and case are snow-set with diamonds. Automatic winding (Cal. LTM 2100). 25,200 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 18KWG case (39mm diameter). Limited production. Price subject to availability.
Even more historic is the Tiffany Eternity, which is based on the Wisteria Lamp that the company produced from the late 19th century to the early 20th century. The 12 diamonds on the plique-à-jour enamel dial were inspired by an engagement ring advertisement from the 1960s. The company's ability to incorporate classic references into various details is also evident in the classic logo.
This time, only high-end pieces for women were unveiled, but if Tiffany has already shown off such a high level of perfection, there is no doubt that they will also add attractive new pieces for men.
What personally caught my eye was the high jewelry watch "Carat 128." The highlight of the collection, named after the carat weight of the famous Tiffany diamond, is this watch, which features an aquamarine (!) for the crystal. The rough stone is 34.52 carats, cut to resemble the Tiffany diamond. The bracelet features 251 diamonds totaling over 28 carats. Quartz movement. Limited production. Price subject to inquiry.
Tiffany lamps are the source of many masterpieces. This watch was inspired by their pattern. The dial features a wisteria pattern made of plique-à-jour enamel instead of glass, and is set with 12 diamonds reminiscent of engagement rings. Automatic movement (Cal. LTM 2100). 25,200 vph. Power reserve: approximately 38 hours. 18KWG case (38mm diameter). Limited production. Price upon request.
This watch is made of a different tsavorite material. The "16 Stone" cross-stitch pattern, designed by Jean Schlumberger in 1959, is adorned around the outer edge of the dial. This part rotates in accordance with the wearer's movements. The name "24 Stone" comes from the 24 diamonds set around the outer edge of the dial. Automatic winding (Cal. LTM 2100). 25,200 vph. Power reserve: approximately 38 hours. 18KWG case (39mm diameter). Limited production. Price upon request.
Tiffany Enters a New Chapter in Watchmaking
Anthony Ledoux x Nicolas Beaux
Tiffany, now under the umbrella of the LVMH Group, has re-entered the world of watchmaking, showcasing a limited but eye-catching selection of new pieces at LVMH Watch Week 2025. We spoke to President and CEO Anthony Ledru and Tiffany Horlogerie Vice President Nicolas Baud to find out why they made such a big change in direction.
President and CEO of Tiffany. After earning a master's degree from SKEMA Business School, he served as Vice President of North American Retail at Cartier, President and CEO of the Americas at Louis Vuitton, and Senior Vice President of Global Commercial. He has held his current position since 2021. He has given Tiffany a heritage brand name and is putting the company on a growth trajectory.
"Tiffany has a history of watchmaking dating back to 1847. At this event, we exhibited 20 historical timepieces selected from our archives. Among them, two pieces made in our Geneva workshop in 1874 and a pocket watch given to the captain of the Titanic who heard the radio message and saved the passengers in 1912 are symbols of that history," says Anthony Ledoux. Why re-enter the highly competitive watch market now?
In response to this question, Ledru expressed his enthusiasm, saying, "There is still great potential for growth in the watch market. I want to utilize the craftsmanship and creativity that are unique to Tiffany." One way to achieve this is by repurposing archives and fusing them with jewelry.
Vice President of Tiffany Horlogerie. After graduating from ISG in France, he worked at Cartier and Baume & Mercier before joining Chanel. As head of the jewelry and watch divisions, he significantly expanded the business. After serving as global head of business development, he joined Tiffany in 2021.
"The watches we create are a fusion of meticulous watchmaking and the artistry of jewelry. A prime example of this is Jean Schlumberger's Bird on a Rock. We've transformed a design known as a brooch or ring into a timepiece," says Ledru. Indeed, it seems likely that the techniques that have been successful in jewelry will also be successful in watches. So how will they go about revitalizing the Japanese watch market, which once had a large presence?
"Japan is an important market for us, with a long history and deep ties. Through this new collection inspired by our archives, we hope to re-introduce our watchmaking traditions to the people of Japan and rebuild their trust," says Ledru. The high jewelry watch unveiled at LVMH Watch Week symbolizes this restart. Nicolas Baud explains:
"We've reinterpreted Jean Schlumberger's designs into modern watches. For example, the Bird on a Rock Tsavorite is a model with a 39mm diameter case, an automatic movement, and more than 5 carats of tsavorite. It's packed with more than 55 hours of craftsmanship," he continues, "and the Aquamarine model features a full diamond bracelet and snow-set dial, taking more than 200 hours to make." We can also look forward to the men's watches.
"Tiffany watches are designed to appeal to a wide range of customers, regardless of gender. However, we also focus on traditional men's watches, and will continue to offer the Atlas and Union Square brands, while also expanding our lineup," says Bo.
Armed with the history and craftsmanship it has cultivated as a jeweler, Tiffany has once again entered the world of watchmaking. The company's direction is as Ledru states: "The watches we create are not just timepieces, but icons that will be passed down to the future."
Not only is Tiffany re-entering the market, but it has also touted itself as an icon. Let's look forward to seeing what the brand does next.
