"Fun to look at, exciting to wear." A review of Orient Star's new 2025 model!

Journalist Shigeru Sugawara, who has been in the watch industry for over 30 years, has also been covering Orient and Orient Star for many years. Sugawara will be reviewing the brand's new 2025 model, the M34 Avant-Garde F8 Skeleton. Two years ago, when he first saw the Avant-Garde Skeleton, he felt it was a "problematic" model that "removed the limiter." So what does the author think of this latest model?

The author felt that the "Avant-garde Skeleton" had "removed the limiter"

　This "Avant-Garde Skeleton" was released two years ago. I felt it was bound to be a "controversial piece" that would reshape Orient Star's image. Orient Star has long promoted the appeal of mechanical watches through various types of skeleton designs, but this time, it has modernized that brand tradition. Perhaps that's why it's labeled "Avant-Garde." However, its bold openwork design, crafted using precision machining, is particularly eye-catching. It's a model that, so to speak, "removes the limiter." But that's not all. The new in-house movement is equally noteworthy. The Caliber F8F64 features a patented silicon escape wheel, improving the escapement's energy transmission efficiency and extending the running time to over 60 hours, a first for an Orient Star automatic. To my knowledge, Orient Star is the only Japanese-made watch to use a silicon escape wheel, and the dramatic improvement in power reserve achieved by this component is a remarkable achievement. This new-generation movement, which also enhances its technical appeal, undoubtedly further underscores the brand's unique approach.

2025 New Model "M34 Avant-Garde F8 Skeleton" Wear Review

　The watch I tried on this time was the latest model, officially called the "M34 Avant-garde F8 Skeleton," a special edition model available in limited quantities.

　The case has a powerful, architectural design, and the openwork dial emphasizes depth, just like the regular model, but the coloring is completely different. The gold-colored case, crown, and inner flange ring, along with the beige dial and khaki strap, create a new image based on the design theme called "desert luxury." The lineup also includes a type with the same stainless steel color and texture, as well as an all-black version, but in contrast to the metallic = cool, black = stylish aesthetic, the desert color evokes images of hot and active scenes.

　Speaking of deserts, I've traveled to the Sahara Desert in Africa and the outskirts of Dubai on the Arabian Peninsula. While the desert color of this limited edition model is a simple association, I enjoyed reminiscing about those desert trips and looking at photos from that time with the watch beside me. Watches aren't just functional tools; they also have a different value system, something that evokes imagination and emotion. The moment I put the Avant-Garde Skeleton on my wrist, it was like, "Ready to Go!"—a watch that makes you feel restless. So, while it would be a fantastic story if I immediately set off on a desert trip, I actually took the watch on a leisurely stroll around my hometown of Yokohama.

　I looked at the watch in the natural light of a clear spring day, just before the cherry blossoms bloomed. Its visibility was excellent. Thanks to the SAR anti-reflective coating, the sapphire crystal is so clear that it almost seems nonexistent, offering a clear view of the intricate multi-layered dial and movement details, including the beveled edges and delicate decorative finishes on the surface. I was particularly struck by the blue silicon escape wheel, which shimmered for a moment depending on the light. To put it in a more pretentious way, it resembled a star in the night sky. I apologize for making this seem like a stretch to connect it to Orient Star, but I felt like it wasn't just my imagination that the blue silicon escape wheel symbolized the current "space feel" of collections organized around meteor showers, like this model's "M34." It literally looked like a "shining star."

　I wore it for three days, combining desk work and outings. The things I liked about it were that, despite being an automatic watch, it still had a small second hand display. The preference for a small second hand is purely a matter of personal preference, not just for this model. Of course, limiting the number of hands is the logical choice to fully showcase the appeal of a skeleton design. While the regular model with a bracelet weighs 180g, this model with a strap weighs a significant 110g. Therefore, I barely felt any strain on my wrist. While I definitely prefer the strap, the stylish design of the canvas-like nylon exterior and yellow leather interior was also appealing. Another plus point is the easy three-fold deployant buckle with a push button, which makes the strap easy to fasten and remove.

A piece that not only exudes technique but also evokes imagination and emotion

　I already own several Orient Star watches of the old standard, but there are many new discoveries to be made with the Avant-Garde Skeleton, and it will appeal to watch lovers who are familiar with the traditional Orient Star. In short, it's fun to look at and makes you feel excited when you wear it. The technology is impeccable, and although it may seem repetitive, I think it's a watch that awakens the imagination and emotions, and allows you to discover such values. Seeing is believing. It's important to experience it for yourself.

Shigeru Sugawara's profile

Born in 1954. Watch journalist. In the 1980s, he covered France and Italy for fashion and jewelry magazines. Since the 1990s, he has focused on watches, covering the annual watch fair held in Switzerland for over 25 years. He has written and published numerous articles in watch magazines such as "Chronos Japan" and general magazines. He also translates books on watches.