A quick look at Vacheron Constantin's new watches for 2025!

Vacheron Constantin will celebrate its 270th anniversary in 2025. The stainless steel "222" watch was released this year, generating a lot of buzz, and at Watches & Wonders Geneva, the brand will unveil new models from its "Traditionnelle," "Patrimony," and "Les Cabinotiers" lines. As befits an anniversary, the lineup is prolific.

New Watches for 2025① "Traditional" 270th Anniversary Model

　Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has been manufacturing watches without interruption ever since, and this year marks its 270th anniversary. To celebrate this anniversary, eight special limited edition models were introduced at Watches & Wonders Geneva. Four of these are "Traditionnelle" models with distinctive patterns on the dial.

　The Traditionnelle collection pays homage to the rigorous traditions of fine watchmaking in Geneva, Switzerland in the 18th century, fusing high technical standards with a unique watchmaking aesthetic. While the elegantly thin round case, slender bezel, and dauphine hands are minimalist, the Traditionnelle's unique details, such as the polished case, stepped lugs, and coin-edged caseback, make it an original dress watch.

　The 270th anniversary model, the Traditional Manual Winding, is equipped with a traditional hand-wound movement and features a distinctive geometric pattern on the dial. This pattern is inspired by the Maltese cross, a symbol of Vacheron Constantin since 1880. The design of the part attached to the barrel cover housing the mainspring once resembled a Maltese cross, and the company has used this motif as a symbol of its commitment to precision.

　The anniversary model is available in either platinum or 18K pink gold, both of which are thin and elegant, measuring 38mm in diameter and 7.77mm thick.

　The movement inside each anniversary model is the Caliber 4400 AS/270. The bridges of this movement, available for each anniversary model, feature a "Côtes Unique" finish. This finish was invented by Vacheron Constantin more than a century ago and was reintroduced in 2021 for the re-release of the Historiques Américaine 1921. To create the impression of uninterrupted, flowing lines across the multiple bridges, craftsmen made precise fine adjustments to the movement of each anniversary model. This technique therefore took more than 500 hours to perfect.

　The Traditional line also includes two gorgeous anniversary models: the Traditional Moon Phase and the Traditional Manual Winding, both 33mm in diameter.

　Both models feature an 18K pink gold case with a mother-of-pearl dial and are set with diamonds, creating an elegant and glamorous look. The moon phase model features 81 diamonds (approximately 1.28 carats) on the bezel and lugs, while the 33mm model features 54 diamonds (approximately 0.87 carats) on the bezel.

　Both watches are fitted with pink alligator leather straps, which, combined with the sparkle of diamonds and mother-of-pearl, will add a touch of glamour to your wrist.

　Both models also feature a transparent back, allowing you to admire the special coat, unique finish, and motif inspired by the round Maltese cross.

New Watches for 2025② "Patrimony" 270th Anniversary Model

Four Patrimony 270th anniversary models have also been released: the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and the Patrimony Automatic.

　The Patrimony collection is inspired by the ultra-thin round-case watches produced by Vacheron Constantin in the 1950s. Like the Traditionnelle, it features a classic and minimalist style, with a slim bezel, a thin round case, a slightly domed dial, and applied indexes and baton-shaped hands, making it an authentic dress watch suitable for formal occasions.

　The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is powered by the hand-wound Cal. 2460 R31L/270 movement, while the Patrimony Automatic is powered by the automatic Cal. 2450 Q6/270 movement. The rotor of the automatic movement also features the company's iconic Maltese cross motif.

　All 270th anniversary models will have an individual serial number engraved on the case back.

New Watch for 2025 #3: "Traditional Open Face" 270th Anniversary Model

　Vacheron Constantin has been producing openwork dials since early on in its long history. In 1918, it adopted a partially openworked dial for a pocket watch equipped with an astronomical calendar. Then, in 2002, it revived this openwork style with the Reference 47247, producing a retrograde date display model. This led to the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar in 2019, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Open Face in 2021, and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon in 2023.

　It may be only natural that the openwork watch, a special technological heritage for the company, was chosen as the style for the 270th anniversary. Three special models with platinum cases that "show off" the mechanism have been released.

　In addition to the openworked models, the "Traditional Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Open Face" and the "Traditional Tourbillon Retrograde Date Open Face" are also noteworthy for being equipped with a retrograde date display. In 1940, there was a reference 3620, affectionately known as "Don Pancho." This Don Pancho, which had been silent for a long time, resurfaced at an auction in 2019. In the early 2000s, Vacheron Constantin, celebrating its 245th anniversary, introduced a timepiece equipped with a retrograde date display, and this, combined with the "reunion" in 2019, made the retrograde date display one of the company's special mechanisms.

　All three models feature platinum cases with traditional lugs, casebacks, and slim bezels, while the dials feature the 270th anniversary model's distinctive pattern, which complements the openwork face.

　Of course, the case back is also see-through, allowing you to enjoy the specifications of the 270th anniversary model, such as the Court Unique and Maltese cross motif engraving.

　Each model is limited to just 370 pieces worldwide, and these masterpieces are the culmination of Vacheron Constantin's watchmaking expertise, which has been cultivated over many years.

New Watches for 2025 #4: Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication -La Premiere-

　To mark its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled yet another amazing new watch. The Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication -La Première- is a massive complication that the brand calls "the most complicated wristwatch ever made," boasting 41 mechanisms. The watch's diverse functions range from familiar features like a power reserve indicator, chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phase, and tourbillon to a timekeeping instrument that simultaneously displays three time zones on both sides of the dial, while also displaying astronomical information, particularly the celestial phenomena resulting from the relative positions of the sun, earth, and moon, as well as the time until a specific star appears in the sky.

　Of particular note are the three distinctive time displays and astronomical functions made possible by the Cal. 3655.

　The first of the three time displays is "civil time," which is the time we generally think of as "time," and is displayed by the central hour and minute hands on the surface. This model also features a world time display, which simultaneously shows different times depending on the location on Earth, and a second time zone display.

　The second is "sidereal time." A sidereal day, or one day in sidereal time, is the period in which the Earth rotates 360 degrees around the fixed stars in the sky, which is 23 hours, 56 minutes, and 4 seconds. The difference from the 24 hours it takes for the Earth to rotate once results from the Earth's orbit around the Sun, and is closely related to the changing seasons and the starry sky. This sidereal time display is located on the back of the watch, with the minutes displayed on the outer periphery and the hours displayed on a rotating disc below.

　The third is "solar time (return time)." Solar time is the time when the sun passes through the zenith at noon, and can be rephrased as the time that can be known by a sundial. The interval between the sun's passage through the zenith and its next return to the zenith is one solar day, but its length varies with the seasons, resulting in a discrepancy from 24 hours. This is the equation of time. The equation of time is displayed on a counter at the 6 o'clock position on the front of this watch, and when combined with civil time, it allows the user to know solar time.

　As mentioned above, the watch also features a perpetual calendar, which displays the four-digit year, leap year, month, date, and day of the week, as well as the week number and day of the week number in accordance with ISO 8601, the standard for calendar and time display.

　Next, let's take a look at the five astronomy-related complications of the Caliber 3655. Four of the five are related to the apparent movement of the sun, and all are located on the surface of the watch. These are the sun's position, altitude, noon time, and declination. The fifth mechanism is the celestial time tracking function, a world first for a wristwatch.

　The celestial object time tracking function displays the time until a celestial object or constellation appears in the center of the user's field of view. This function is achieved by combining a split-seconds chronograph and a starry sky dial on the back of the watch. The user selects the celestial object or constellation they want to track and starts the chronograph. The first hand stops when the chronograph second hand reaches the green reference mark on the starry sky dial, and the other hand stops at the position of the selected celestial object or constellation. At this time, a small counter in the center of the dial indicates the time until the celestial object appears in front of the user.

　The piece also features a rotating disc showing the 13 zodiac signs and the seasons, vernal equinoxes, summer solstices, autumnal equinoxes and winter solstices (which are closely related to solar time).

　Additionally, the Caliber 3655 is equipped with a Westminster minute repeater mechanism, and while Vacheron Constantin has clearly had ample experience in creating minute repeater movements, this one manages to combine a mechanism that performs so many functions with a light, resonant chime that strikes the watch.

　The Cal. 3655 movement has a diameter of 36mm and a thickness of 10.96mm, and is housed in an 18K white gold case that is 45mm in diameter and 14.99mm thick, making it a very practical size. To achieve this size, the layout of the display, controls, and components within the movement had to be optimal, and for this model, the watchmaker in charge of the movement was involved in the technical development of the case.

New Watches for 2025 #5: Les Cabinotiers – A Tribute to the Tour de l'Ile

Three models were announced under the title "Les Cabinotiers - A Tribute to Tour de l'Ile", each depicting the Tour de l'Ile, a small island on the Rhône River, in a different style.

　Geneva is located on the shores of the Rhône River, which flows into Lake Geneva, Europe's largest lake. From the Middle Ages to the Renaissance, Geneva developed as a checkpoint and stopover on an important route connecting the north and south of Europe. The Tour de l'Isle, French for "island tower," was part of a fortress built in the 13th century to protect Geneva, a strategic military and economic location. It has since become a beloved presence, watching over the city. In the 18th century, Geneva developed into a center of jewelry, decorative arts, and watchmaking. Jean-Marc Vacheron opened his workshop in 1755, marking the beginning of Vacheron Constantin.

　In 1843, the Maison established its workshop in Tour-de-l'Île, and in 1906 opened its first boutique there, so the history of Geneva and Vacheron Constantin is deeply intertwined with Tour-de-l'Île.

　The three models in the "Les Cabinotiers - Homage to the Tour de l'Ile" collection, released this year to mark the 270th anniversary of the founding of Jean-Marc Vacheron's workshop in 1755, are three unique pieces that each depict the Tour de l'Ile in a different style.

"Les Cabinotiers - A Tribute to the Tour de l'Ile - Grand Feu Miniature Enamel" features a Grand Feu enamel dial with a miniature enamel painting of the Tour de l'Ile and the Place de Belle-Air that stretches out before it. This design is based on a stone print by 19th-century artist Jean Dubois and printed by Spengler. Based on this original drawing, this watch uses the miniature enamel technique developed in Geneva in the 18th century to create a dial with transparency and three-dimensionality.

　Because the enamel technique can cause the color tone of the pigment to change during firing, this work underwent repeated testing before it was made. Even after production began, it took more than a month to complete, starting with creating a base with white enamel, painting one layer of the picture, firing it, and then painting again.

"Les Cabinotiers - Homage to the Tour de l'Ile - Figurative Guilloché & Grand Feu Miniature Enamel" combines hand-guilloching and miniature enamel techniques to create the shape of a tower. While guilloching is typically associated with a continuous geometric pattern, the techniques cultivated by Vacheron Constantin allow for greater precision and freedom in design. This technique is achieved by skillfully combining the use of one manual guilloching machine to carve straight lines and another hand-engraving machine to carve curves and circles.

　This watch features a three-dimensional perspective-drawn tower engraved on the 18K yellow gold dial. The dial is then finished with Grand Feu Miniature Enamel, which adds color to the tower to create shadows. By minimizing the amount of miniature enamel, the watch's intricate finish highlights the Maison's unique guilloching technique, making it a truly remarkable piece.

"Les Cabinotiers – Engraving – Homage to the Tour de l'Ile" depicts the Rhône River and its towers in bas-relief. The piece was inspired by the engraving of the bridge in front of the Tour de l'Ile, created by Pierre Escuyer in 1822.

　This model features a slim case with a thickness of just 9.42mm, leaving only a tiny amount of vertical clearance on the dial, just 1mm. To create a three-dimensional landscape, the design creates a delicate trompe l'oeil effect, with the motifs appearing to float slightly above the surface. The outlines of the buildings and window frames are clearly defined, while the street trees, clouds, and brick walls have a softer texture to add contrast, resulting in a meticulous yet gentle finish.