We have selected five complication watches from the collection released in 2025. From the practical perpetual calendar to the poetic and emotional automaton and moon phase, the collection embodies the brand's unique worldview.

Complication watch

Written by Tsubasa Nojima
Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 9, 2025]


A complication watch that pushes the limits of mechanical engineering and craftsmanship

 Complication watches not only display the time but also incorporate additional mechanisms such as perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, chronographs, and moon phases. Accurate control of these complex movements requires exceptional craftsmanship in every step of the process, from design and development to manufacturing and assembly. Each year, each brand releases new movements, demonstrating their creativity and technical capabilities.

 In 2025, many innovative complication watches were announced by various brands. From perpetual calendars that enhance practical convenience to poetic automata and moon phases, let's take a look at the world of complication watches that embody the brand's worldview. This year also saw the release of several eye-catching complication models in clocks, but this article focuses on wristwatches.

Audemars Piguet "Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar" Ref. 26674SG.OO.1320SG.01

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Audemars Piguet "Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar" Ref. 26674SG.OO.1320SG.01
This 2025 model features a new perpetual calendar movement. Its revolutionary design allows complex operations to be controlled with a single crown. Automatic winding (Cal. 7138). 41 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 55 hours. 18K sand gold case (41mm diameter, 9.5mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Price upon request.

 One of Audemars Piguet's specialties is the perpetual calendar, and this year, marking the 150th anniversary of its founding, the company developed a new perpetual calendar movement and installed it in the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.

 A unique feature of the Cal. 7138 used in this watch is that all operations can be performed with just one crown. Normally, perpetual calendar movements require several correctors in addition to the crown to adjust the time and calendar. However, with this movement, winding the mainspring, adjusting the week, month, day of the week, date, moon phase, hours, minutes, and 24-hour display can all be done with just the crown.

 The case and bracelet are crafted from 18K sand gold. The sharp exterior, with its characteristic hairline and polished finishes, is characteristic of the Royal Oak, and the soft color of the 18K sand gold combines sportiness with elegance. The dial, decorated with Grand Tapisserie motifs, is the same color as the case, creating a unified design.

Van Cleef & Arpels "Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automata Watch" Ref. VCARPERV00

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels "Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automata Watch" Ref. VCARPERV00
Enjoy romantic animation with this automata watch. It recreates the atmosphere of Guinguettes, outdoor dance cafes that were popular mainly in the suburbs of Paris in the 19th century. Automatic winding. Power reserve of approximately 36 hours. 18K white gold case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 24,948,000 yen (tax included).

 Van Cleef & Arpels has created numerous automaton watches. The latest addition to its Poetic Complications® collection is the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automata Watch. A city illuminated at night, shrouded in clouds. A man holding a bouquet and a woman dressed in a beautiful dress stand on the cobblestones. The two begin dancing and kissing at noon and midnight. This romantic animation can also be enjoyed by pressing a push button.

 The time is displayed retrogradely, with the hours and minutes displayed from 10 o'clock to 12 o'clock and the minutes from 12 o'clock to 2 o'clock. Instead of hands, the movement is a star peeking out from between the clouds. The three-dimensional stage, with multiple motifs overlapping, is fantastically decorated with grisaille enamel.

 The case is made of 18K white gold, and the bezel, lugs, and crown are set with diamonds, adding a touch of glamour to any romantic moment.

A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, Ref. 607.091FE / LSLS6072AA

A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, Ref. 607.091FE / LSLS6072AA

A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, Ref. 607.091FE / LSLS6072AA
This complication watch combines a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar. The see-through caseback allows you to admire the hand-wound movement with its granulated bridges. Manual winding (Cal. L122.2). 54 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 40.5mm, thickness 12.1mm). Water resistant to 20m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. Price upon request.

 As its name suggests, the Minute Repeater Perpetual is a complication watch equipped with a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. Operating the slider at 9 o'clock sounds a chime to tell the current time. Not only does it boast excellent acoustic quality, it also features convenience features, such as a safety device to prevent malfunctions caused by operating the minute repeater with the crown pulled out.

 The iconic A. Lange & Söhne outsize date is located at 12 o'clock and, together with three subdials, displays the calendar. Unless power is lost, this calendar will not need to be corrected until March 1, 2100, and the moon phase, featuring a gold moon and hand-engraved stars, will only deviate by one day every 122.6 years. The calendar mechanism can be adjusted using a single pusher at 8 o'clock. The gold-based, black enamel dial is composed of four parts, adding a three-dimensional effect to the monochrome dial.

Hermès "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune Blue Grey Moon"

Hermès "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune Blue Grey Moon"

©Anita Schlaefli
Hermès "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune Blue Grey Moon"
This new model is full of mystique, with a mother-of-pearl moon and meteorite dial, and even a mechanism in which a small dial rotates above it. The blue bezel is made of titanium. Automatic winding (Cal. H1837). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 18KWG x Ti case (43mm diameter). Water resistant to 3 bar. Reference price: 39,402,000 yen (sale price for the newly announced "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune" three-piece set). Scheduled for release around August 2025.

 Hermès' signature complication watch is the Arceau L'Heure de la Lune, released in 2019. The dial features two moons, with smaller dials for the time and date rotating above them, displaying the phase of the moon. Not only is the mechanism complex, but it also has a poetic quality that is very typical of Hermès.

 The newly announced "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune Blue Grey Moon" will be sold as a set of three bottles, along with the simultaneously announced "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune Vesta" and "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune Erg Chef", and only 12 sets will be sold.

Arceau Loeur de la Lune

©Anita Schlaefli
Hermès "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune Vesta"
Automatic movement (Cal. H1837). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve: approximately 40 hours. PG case (diameter 43mm). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Reference price: 39,402,000 yen (sale price for the newly announced "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune" three-piece set). Scheduled for release around August 2025.

Arceau Loeur de la Lune

©Anita Schlaefli
Hermès "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune Ergue Chef"
Automatic movement (Cal. H1837). 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve: approximately 40 hours. White gold case (43mm diameter). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Reference price: 39,402,000 yen (sale price for the newly announced "Arceaux L'Heure de la Lune" three-piece set). Scheduled for release around August 2025.

 The dial of the Arceau L'Heure de la Lune Blue-Grey Moon is made of lunar meteorite, a lunar rock. The moon at 12 o'clock features a Pegasus motif by artist Dimitri Rybalchenko.

 The case, which features Arceau's signature asymmetrical lugs, is made of 18K white gold, and the Caliber H1837 movement can be seen through the see-through back.

Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5308G-001

Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5308G-001

Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5308G-001
A quadruple complication with a refreshing ice blue dial. Equipped with a minute repeater, split-second chronograph, and instantaneous date-advance perpetual calendar. Automatic winding (Cal. R CHR 27 PS QI). 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. 18K white gold case (diameter 42mm, thickness 17.71mm). Not waterproof. Price: 195,880,000 yen (tax included).

 A quadruple complication with a minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar. The discs for the day of the week, date and month, displayed in three apertures between 10 and 2 o'clock, change instantly in just 30 milliseconds.

 The dial has an ice blue soleil finish. The indexes and hour, minute, and second hands are all blue, while the chronograph hands are white. The 42mm case is made of 18K white gold. In addition to a see-through case back that allows you to see the movement inside, it also comes with a closed case back.

 The movement is the Cal.R CHR 27 PS QI, which features a micro-rotor automatic winding mechanism. In addition to finishes such as Côtes de Genève and chamfering, you can enjoy the movement of the micro-rotor, governor, and hammer.

 The strap is made of brilliant navy blue alligator leather and is fitted with an 18K white gold folding buckle.


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