With the watch industry's largest trade fair for new releases, Watches & Wonders Geneva, taking place in 2025, it seems that all the new watches from various manufacturers have been released. This year, various manufacturers have released a wide variety of models. We've narrowed it down to five masterpieces among dress watches. We've selected watches from brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Jaeger-LeCoultre that will make you want to wear a nice suit.

Text by Shinichi Sato
[Article published on January 10, 2025]
A selection of noteworthy dress watches from the 2025 releases
We'll introduce five noteworthy dress watches from among the new models released in 2025. Following the boom in luxury sports watches, this classic genre is once again gaining attention. Although classic, today's improvements in movement performance and exterior quality have made them more practical and available in a wider variety of styles. We've narrowed it down to dress watches that make you want to wear a nice suit, and selected noteworthy new models from brands like A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Rolex.
A. Lange & Söhne "1815"

Manual winding (Cal. L152.1). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 34.0mm, thickness 6.4mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 385 million yen (tax included).
A. Lange & Söhne, which specializes in dress watches, has added a new 34mm model to its classic "1815" lineup, which is particularly noteworthy. The previous model had a case diameter of 38.5mm, a classic yet modern, well-balanced size. In contrast, the new 34mm model is quite compact by modern standards, reminiscent of the size of watches from the early 1950s. The finished watch is also just 6.4mm thick. The dial is simple and classic, with hour and minute hands and a small second hand.
The dial color is the same blue that A. Lange & Söhne has used on many of their masterpieces. The simplicity of the hour, minute, and small seconds hands highlights the fine finish of the dial. The height of the center of the dial and the small seconds hand are slightly different, and the lancet-shaped hands, with their wing-like curves, add a sense of three-dimensionality to the small space.

To achieve this compact packaging, the watch is equipped with the newly developed manual-winding movement, Cal. L152.1. While it retains the traditions of Glashütte and A. Lange & Söhne, such as its three-quarter plate, blued screws, gold chatons, and engraved balance cock, it also features modern elements, such as a free-sprung movement and a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. These features reflect A. Lange & Söhne's "NEVER STAND STILL" philosophy.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

Manual winding (Cal. 822). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. 18KPG case (45.6mm x 27.4mm, 7.56mm thick). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Price: 6,424,000 yen (tax included).
Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso collection originated as a sporty watch but is now accepted as a dressy model. Among them, a particularly dressy pink gold model has been released.
The newly announced "Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Second" features an 18K pink gold case paired with a pink gold Milanese bracelet. This bracelet is often seen on vintage watches, and is characterized by its uneven surface created by connecting fine links, which creates a soft, sparkling reflection of light. The clasp is a sliding clasp, allowing for a high degree of adjustment and ensuring a comfortable fit. The dial of this model is also gold-colored, making it a very glamorous model with a monotone gold finish.

The finished watch is 7.56mm thick, and the subtle (but effective) update to the lug attachments connects the bracelet and lugs, creating a more seamless connection between the case and bracelet. Fans of the traditional hand-wound movement, the Cal. 822, will find this appealing.
When you incorporate all-gold into your daily outfits, the unique brilliance and elegance of this piece will make it an irreplaceable piece.
Cartier "Tank Louis Cartier"

Automatic winding (Cal. 1899 MC). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. 18KPG case (38.1mm x 27.75mm, 8.18mm thick). Water resistant for everyday use. Price: 2,362,800 yen (tax included).
A new large-size model has been added to the Cartier Tank Louis Cartier, a watch that was born in 1922 and remains synonymous with square dress watches. While the traditional "LM size" was 33.7mm high and 25.5mm wide, the new size is 38.1mm high and 27.75mm wide. Incidentally, the previously introduced "Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds" is a compact Reverso model, measuring 45.6mm high and 27.4mm wide including the lugs. Comparing this to the previous model, it's clear that the new, larger size isn't too large, and it's a model that incorporates trends while retaining the Tank's signature dressiness.

The dial design retains the traditional balanced aesthetic, but a new design features a radial pattern that adds a sense of dynamism. The movement is Cartier's next-generation automatic movement, the Cal. 1899 MC. Even though it's an automatic model, the finished thickness of the watch is kept to just 8.18mm, maintaining the elegance of the Tank Louis Cartier.
In addition to the 18K rose gold model introduced here, a traditional 18K yellow gold case model is also available.
Rolex Perpetual 1908

Automatic movement (Cal. 7140). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 66 hours. 18K yellow gold case (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 5,273,400 yen (tax included).
The first bracelet model has been added to the Rolex Perpetual 1908. The Perpetual 1908 is a new collection inspired by one of the early Rolex watches equipped with a perpetual rotor, and was released in 2023. The "1908" refers to the year the "Rolex" trademark was officially registered in Switzerland. Its appearance reveals new design codes, such as a fluted domed bezel, pontiff hands, faceted hour markers, and small seconds.
While retaining these design codes, the newly announced new model combines an 18K yellow gold case with a seven-row link yellow gold bracelet, the "Settimo Bracelet." This was newly developed exclusively for the Perpetual 1908, and features a contrast between the soft curves of the links and the vertical straight lines that emerge from the joins of the links, creating a classic yet very modern finish. The locking mechanism is a concealed type with an inconspicuous clasp, and these distinctive links are designed to wrap around the wrist. The locking mechanism is adorned with a crown.
This bracelet is the first of its kind designed for the Perpetual 1908, but since Rolex specializes in bracelet design and manufacturing, you can expect a high level of perfection. This is definitely one to watch for anyone looking for a dressy bracelet model.
Citizen "Eco-Drive One"

Solar-powered Eco-Drive (Cal. 8845). Stainless steel case (diameter 36.6mm, thickness 4.5mm). Water resistant for everyday use. Price: 363,000 yen (tax included).
The ultra-thin Eco-Drive One model, with a movement thickness of 1.00mm and a finished watch thickness of 4.5mm, now comes in a new amber yellow case color. The case is made of stainless steel, and all models, including this one, are treated with Duratect, a surface hardening technology, to create the attractive color.
Let's take a look at the new Amber Yellow color. The calming yellow gold color, coordinated with the black dial, gives this watch a classic, vintage-like impression. The name Amber Yellow comes from amber, the fossilized sap from trees, and is inspired by its gentleness on the skin, high hardness, and beautiful appearance. The color was chosen with the hope that, like amber, which takes many years to form, the watch will grow fonder with use over the years.
Nickel is often used in regular gold plating, which is one of the factors that can cause allergies. A key feature of Amber Yellow is that it does not use nickel, but instead uses a niobium-titanium alloy to achieve the gold color, making it gentle on the skin. Furthermore, Amber Yellow boasts the hardest class of Duratect, making it 10 to 20 times more scratch-resistant than regular gold plating.
The dial has a simple yet dressy design with central hour and minute hands and a wide small second hand. It is also noteworthy that subtle improvements have been made to improve visibility, such as changing the finish on the scale and on half of the hour and minute hands.



