Watch Enthusiast Life Big @UlysseNardinFreak: "The watches I collect tend to have unique designs."

FEATURES Magazine article

2025.04.28

Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin has been gaining a lot of attention lately. While the company is known for complicated watches like the "Astronomical Trilogy" and "Freak," in recent years it has been capturing the hearts of watch enthusiasts with its collection featuring the basic automatic movement Cal. UN-118. One person who has consistently poured his love for Ulysse Nardin is Big @UlysseNardinFreak, who lives in the Chukyo region. He first became interested in watches six years ago. However, despite his sometimes harsh comments, what he demonstrates is a genuine love for watches.

Big @UlysseNardinFreak
He lives in the Chukyo region and was born in 1994. He grew up with parents who loved vintage clothing, and after starting work, he became interested in watches. He happened to come across a Ulysse Nardin diver's watch, and his love for Nardin exploded. He says he doesn't choose watches based on the movement, but in recent years he has started to buy watches based solely on the movement.

Photographer: Takafumi Okuda
Photographs by Takafumi Okuda
Masamasa Hirota (this magazine): Interview and writing
Text byMasayuki Hirota (Chronos Japan)
Edited by Chronos Japan (Yukiya Suzuki, Yuto Hosoda)
[Article published in the July 2024 issue of Kronos Japan]

"I like Ulysse Nardin for its clumsy nature and its current indecisiveness."

If he had to choose just one, he showed us the Marine 1846 (Ref. 1183-900/E0), manufactured in 2017. The design is reminiscent of the Marine Chronometer 1846, but the movement it is equipped with is not an improved version of ETA's, but the in-house Cal. UN-118. It is a rare model produced in a single production run. Big said that he was attracted to the design of this watch.

　Ulysse Nardin has become a hot topic among watch enthusiasts, garnering attention for its high quality relative to its price and unique story. One collector who has a particular fondness for Ulysse Nardin is Big @UlysseNardinFreak (hereafter referred to as Big). I've met him several times and have been amazed by his love for Nardin, but the depth of his love goes beyond my imagination. He owns three current models, over 20 antique watches, and a mountain of novelty goods.

"I don't know why I got into watches. But I think I have a tendency to be particular about things. But I find it troublesome to explore new things. I tend to buy things if they're recommended to me, and I only go with one store. So I guess I got hooked on Nardin, which was being sold at the store I frequented at the time, and started collecting them. It's not because I admired or was influenced by other people."

Big says that the beauty of Ulysse Nardin is that "they have the technical skill but don't show it." After acquiring the Marine 1846, his next purchase was the Classico Paul David Nardin. Released in 2017, it is a modest model with three hands and a small seconds hand, but it uses the in-house Cal. UN-320 movement. It may not draw attention, but it is highly refined.

The watch that got him hooked on Ulysse Nardin was the "Diver 42mm" (Ref. 8163-175/93). Big, who says "anything is fine as long as it fits comfortably on the wrist," chose this watch, and despite being water resistant to 300m, the case is quite thin, just over 12mm thick. The movement is the Cal. UN-816, an ETA 2892 with a silicon escapement.

　Big, who loved clothes, says he became interested in watches after he started working.

"My father loved vintage clothing. He influenced me to like clothes too." When Big wanted a good watch, especially one with analog hands, to get a job, his father recommended the Hamilton Khaki Auto. I shouldn't say it, but his father, who loves American casual style, has quite good taste.

　After getting a job, Big says he "spent two years quietly," but then he suddenly started looking for a good watch. "My father is a hard worker. He told me that if I was going to buy an expensive watch, I should stay away from Rolexes."

Ulysse Nardin Antique Watches

He says he "buys whatever he can find" these Nardin antiques. Nardin, which made excellent pocket watch movements, equipped their wristwatches with movements that were improved versions of ébauches. However, they are all highly modified. The model on the right is fitted with an improved Ferusa Vidinator movement. As the straps on the watch indicate, Big wears these watches on a daily basis.

Model equipped with Ulysse Nardin's in-house movement, Cal. 9

The model on the left is made in the 1930s and 40s and is equipped with Ulysse Nardin's in-house movement, Cal. 9. The movement is small, measuring 23.6mm in diameter and 3.8mm thick, but its design was adapted from that of a high-quality pocket watch. The models in the center and on the right are Peuseau or Fontainemelon. Most of the straps, including the one shown in the photo, are made by Curios Curio, an antique watch shop in Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo. The cushion attached to the case back is a consideration to prevent sweat from damaging the watch.

"I knew of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand, but I never imagined there would be a store in Mie that carried them (at the time)." He visited the famous Hayashi Watch Shop in Tsu, where he came across the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Small Seconds. Big first saw the Reverso in the spring. After much deliberation, he finally got his hands on one in December.

"I was attracted to the Reverso because of the dial arrangement and gimmicks. I don't buy watches based on the movement, but I do research before buying," he said. This is where his quest began. "While I was thinking about buying a Reverso, I also bought a Seiko Diver and an Orient Bambino." After acquiring the Seiko Diver, he sold his Khaki Auto and replaced it with a manual-winding model.

"I like watches with interesting designs," says Big. These three watches are models with elaborate lugs made in the 1940s and 1950s. Nardin of the past consistently favored authentic designs, but there were exceptions like this. The Curios Curio strap with its fine stitching is a perfect match for watches from this era. The advertisement from that era visible in the background is also Big's personal property.

　Although he finally got his hands on his long-desired Reverso, it wasn't waterproof enough for rough use. So Big wanted a diver's watch that he could wear on a daily basis. This was three years ago. He first considered the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris, but the dial was too shiny for his taste. He continued to look around, and his options were Rolex, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, IWC, Panerai, and Ulysse Nardin.

　Based on Big's preferences, "I narrowed it down to three: IWC, Glashütte Original, and Nardin." He chose a Ulysse Nardin diver, which was not too thick, easy to use, and not too flashy. He said he wanted a thin diver, so this model seemed perfect.

Ulysse Nardin pocket watches

Pocket watches are some of Ulysse Nardin's lesser-known masterpieces. The 17-ligne Caliber 7 and Caliber 8, and the 19-ligne Caliber 5, boasted excellent accuracy. It is no surprise that Seikosha later imitated these movements. These two are likely native to Japan. The example on the right comes with a box that is thought to be from the time. Both have nickel cases, as is common with many Nardin pocket watches imported to Japan.

"The case back is screwed down, so the case is thin, and the conical bezel and short lugs make the watch look thin and small." Indeed, his criteria for choosing a watch are clear. However, he also knows far more about movements than the casual watch enthusiast. "The movement in this model is not made in-house. I heard that it was originally based on ETA and later replaced by Sellita, so I looked into it and found that this model is based on ETA. But the escapement is made of silicon."

　Shortly after, he came across the Marine 1846, manufactured in 2017, at Hayashi Watch Shop. It looks like the 150th anniversary model equipped with an improved version of the ETA2895A2, and the regular version of the 1846, but the movement is the in-house UN-118. He had no idea that a model combining the 1846 design with an in-house movement existed. "It's a one-off production, so you'll hardly ever see it on the market," he says. His reason for choosing this rare model is typical of him.

Antique Ulysse Nardin watches

This was the first Ulysse Nardin antique watch that Big ever owned. It is likely a three-hand model equipped with an improved movement from the Peuseau 330 series. The case back is engraved with "T. SHIRO D.SC. 1961.11.25 AJINOMOTO CO., INC." This is likely a watch that Ajinomoto gave as a commemorative gift to a doctor of science. Although it is by no means expensive, it is a typical Nardin watch that was loved as a high-quality practical watch.

"This model has a slanted faceplate (the ring around the dial) that makes it look compact despite its 41mm diameter. I wouldn't have bought the regular model." The slanted faceplate is the same as the marine chronometers of old. And the movement is the UN-118, not an improved version of the ébauche, so this is a holy grail for Nardin fans.

"It's a watch for enthusiasts, with UN-118 inside. I think the movement is well made. It's highly accurate and durable, just like Nardin is made to be. I don't think there are many other base movements that can be used so widely. It maintains the legacy of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin." You might think that would be the end of it, but Big's love for Nardin would only accelerate in a short space of time.

Big has a wide collection of Ulysse Nardin watches, including women's models. The top two are hand-wound models from the 1960s or 70s, likely equipped with an improved Peuseau movement. The bottom one is from the 20s or 30s. It is very small, but equipped with an excellent movement typical of Nardin. "The chamfered bridges and finish on vintage watches are also beautiful," says Big. He also wears these models on a daily basis.

"I came to Hayashi Watch Shop to buy a Damascus watch. I wanted the DC-86 chronograph with a black coated case. However, the timing didn't allow me to get it, so I bought the Classico Paul David Nardin that was in stock instead. This was one month after the Marine Chronometer."

　I've met many collectors, but this is the first time I've met a Paul David owner. With three hands, a small second hand, and a date display, this is one of the most understated watches from Ulysse Nardin. While you might be a seasoned collector, Big has only been buying watches for a few years.

This is a rare rectangular model that was "acquired in 2023." The movement is likely a modified version of the Peuseau 110 series for Nardin. Big says, "I think Nardin at the time had the technical ability to make their own movements for wristwatches. However, they probably weren't able to focus on wristwatches." Both were repaired at the familiar Hayashi Watch Shop. In addition to these, Big says he is currently repairing a platinum case with a Paris tube. Big's style lies in properly repairing and using watches rather than increasing the number of watches.

"The Paul David is more expensive than the models with enamel dials. It's also the most unfashionable. But the entire exterior of this model, including the case, is custom designed." At this point, isn't it becoming a bit of an obsession?

　Incidentally, before getting into the "Nardin swamp," Big also collected vintage watches. He knows the classic Omega, but he also tried his hand at Gruen and Lord Elgin, which are also quite cool. "I like vintage clothes, so I have no problem with old watches." So it's no surprise that he started collecting antique Ulysse Nardin watches.

Ulysse Nardin Antique Watches

He says he buys antique watches that appeal to him, rather than their condition. He mainly finds them on Yahoo! Auctions and Mercari. His stance, "I look at the condition of the watch, but more than anything, I choose the one that appeals to me," is evident in the three small Ulysse Nardin watches. Indeed, they match well with Big's preference for vintage French military clothing. The one that personally attracted me was the hand-wound model on the right. The style of the strap also matches the watch well.

"The things I collect tend to have unique designs, so I'm drawn to women's watches from the 1970s or watches with distinctive lugs. But recently I've expanded my collection to movements as well, and have started buying Nardin watches with early in-house movements. They've gotten older and older, and now I'm collecting models from the 30s and 40s." However, having gotten into watches through clothing, Big's mindset is a little different from that of a typical collector. "I also use vintage watches for work, especially in the winter." Big has become passionate about Nardin in a short period of time, and the sense of distance between them is interesting.

"I also liked Ulysse Nardin's wandering period in the 90s. They started to put more effort into their 150th anniversary, but they went wild in the late 2000s. I'm not attracted to the models from that era. Nowadays, many brands are making watches with wild designs, but I think Nardin went too far in the past. However, I like that awkwardness and their current indecisiveness." It takes a great deal of love to be able to say that you're indecisive about a brand you love. When asked if he hadn't looked at other brands, Big admitted that there might have been other options. But he is a Nardin man after all.

Ulysse Nardin novelty goods

Big, a huge fan of Ulysse Nardin, has even started collecting novelty goods. The photo shows just a small part of his collection. As the photo shows, he has many boxes and document cases for storing watches. The one in the middle is a NATO strap sold by Hayashi Watch Shop. Both are actually used by Big. The photo on the left shows a hand-wound movement that appears to be from the 1950s. It has a modified ébauche, but as the shape of the jewels indicates, it is quite high-quality. In my opinion, once you start buying movements alone, it's the end (in a good way) for being a collector.

Ulysse Nardin pin badges. The one on the top left is often seen, but the one on the right is quite rare.

"Nardin is not a brand that comes to mind when it comes to wearing a watch on your wrist. Most people go for IWC or Omega. But in the last few years, recognition has increased, and more people are choosing Nardin. I don't want Nardin to become Rolex. But I would like it to become Jaeger-LeCoultre or IWC."

　After talking about his love for Nardin, Big continued to chat over the counter at Hayashi Watch Shop. "I'd like to go to the Astronomical Trilogy, and Freak is good too. I'd like to get a one-push chronograph and a Dual Time from the late 1990s. Hayashi is currently selling a Nardin Dual Time on consignment. It has an enamel dial. To be honest, my head is full of Dual Time watches right now. I wonder how I should come up with the money."

"HISTORY IN TIME"

Big also owns books related to Ulysse Nardin. On the right is a catalogue describing the Astronomical Trilogy. On the left is "HISTORY IN TIME," the official book published to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Ulysse Nardin's founding. It was co-authored by Pascal Brandt and, of course, Dr. Ludwig Oechslin. Ulysse Nardin has published many books since, but this is likely the only one written by the original author. The previous owner of this book was also a well-known person in the watch industry.