Raymond Weil's Millésime collection is attracting attention in the watch industry. Many readers will be curious to know the reason behind its sudden popularity. Yes, there must be a secret behind its popularity. Martin Green, a writer and editor for the US edition of WatchTime, reveals the secret from a design perspective.
Is the secret to its popularity its carefully calculated design?
The Millésime collection has been a success for Raymond Weil. It has attracted the interest of watch collectors around the world and even won the Challenge Watch Award at the Geneva Grand Prix for Watchmaking (GPHG) 2023. The collection currently consists of three-hand models, chronograph models, and, my focus this time, a model with an irresistible moon phase function.
Automatic winding (Cal. RW4280). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39.5mm, thickness 10.05mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 363,000 yen (tax included).
Vintage feel with modern proportions
There are two key factors that contribute to the success of the Millésime. First, it has what I consider to be perfect proportions: its 39.5mm diameter is the perfect size for the watch's distinctive moon phase display.
With a diameter of 39.5mm and a thickness of 10.05mm, the proportions of this timepiece are contemporary yet still retain a vintage feel. This also applies to the dial, which is made possible by the slightly different heights of different sections of the dial.
The key to successful design is "two lines"
Another contribution to its success is the "secret weapon" that makes this watch so appealing. These are the two circular lines that separate the minute track, indexes, and the center of the dial. If these grooves weren't used to organize the design, the dial would likely give the impression of being crowded toward the center. This is a design that alleviates that. Let's say you look at the dial to check the time. Thanks to this design, your eyes are naturally drawn to the center of the dial. This ensures excellent legibility.
A poetic moon phase
In the Vintage collection, the moon phase is used as a poetic display. Moon phase models are often combined with other calendar mechanisms, such as a date or month display. This is not the case with this watch. This gives it a somewhat poetic feel, and the moon's expression speaks for itself. It's not a realistic moon, but rather a moon with a familiar "face." Combined with the stars scattered across the moon phase disc, it's a delight to look at.
This moon phase really complements the blue dial, as the background of the moon phase disc is a bluish grey, which blends in beautifully with the overall design.
A case that exudes luxury and sophistication
The pink gold PVD case gives the Millésime Automatic Moon Phase the luxury feel of a real gold watch, but at a lower price. The use of different finishes, hairline and satin, adds a touch of sophistication and a distinctive Raymond Weil allure.
A robust and reliable movement. If I were to be greedy...
The transparent case back allows you to see the movement, Cal. Rw4280, which is based on Sellita's Cal. SW280-1 and combines it with a special rotor. The movement is robust and reliable. However, it would have been more appealing if it had been a little more decorated to match the elegance of the dial side. Honestly, it's a shame.
The quietly stylish strap is a great choice
I also admire Raymond Weil's understated choice of strap. While a crocodile-look embossed leather strap would have been the more conventional choice, they chose a navy blue calfskin strap with a subtle grain. This adds a touch of understated elegance, making the watch stand out even more. The buckle is also coated in pink gold PVD, which complements the watch perfectly.
Raymond Weil also offers the Millésime Automatic Moon Phase, reviewed here, with a silver dial and a smaller 35mm model. The model featured in this article is priced at 396,000 yen.
