In mid-September 2024, Chopard held the unveiling of the new LUC collection at Château Monestier in France. There was a clear reason for showing the new collection at the Scheufele family winery so early on: "It takes time to create good wine and watches."
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Tomoe Kase
Edited by Tomoshige Kase
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Chopard "LUC" new release report
In June 2024, I received an invitation from Chopard. "Come to France in September to launch our new collection at Château Monestier-La-Tour." It's not unusual for a watch to be launched at a winery. However, at Chopard, the message is clear: "Wine and watches only get better with age."
Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele's hobbies are watches, cars, and wine. The Scheufele family acquired Château Monestier in 2012. Through soil improvement and the adoption of biodynamic farming methods, the quality of the wine has improved year by year (and even dramatically). Even I, who know absolutely nothing about alcohol, find the recent Monestier wines to be very good, so they must have put a lot of effort into it. Perhaps Scheufele himself is proud of this, as Monestier wines are now served alongside wines from famous chateaux at dinners hosted by Chopard.
The program I received in advance stated that in addition to visiting the chateau, there would also be a classic car experience. Everyone would assume that the new model would be from the Mille Miglia. However, it turned out that the model being introduced at Monestier would be the LUC collection, specifically a model to be released in January 2025.
"What a journey," Scheufele began, then went on to explain LUC's long history. "To maintain our independence and legitimacy, we started the in-house movement project in 1992-93. I have no regrets. Incidentally, the first furniture we put in our workshop was purchased there by car from IKEA with Philippe Dufour." An idealist, Scheufele quickly decided that the new in-house movement should have a micro-rotor and that external certification was essential. However, as he admitted, the journey was not always smooth.
"We had no experience, and we often gave up, but you know, it takes four or five years to harvest wine." Incidentally, after acquiring Monestier, Scheufele improved the quality of the wine through a long-term effort that involved re-creating the soil, replanting the vines, and switching from conventional farming to biodynamic farming. The reason he explained LUC's progress at this winery was that, in the end, he also put the same effort into the watches.
The unique activity of driving around the chateau in classic cars also spoke volumes about LUC's current state. The cars, including an MGA, a Jaguar (one of which was a perfect original), a Morgan, and a Thunderbird, demonstrated LUC's claim to be on par with these vintage cars. The same could be said for the concert that followed. The venue was the Paroisse Saint-Martin-des-Vignes, a church across from the chateau. Gautier Capuçon, an acquaintance of Scheufele and arguably the world's greatest cellist, performed there. Even though Chopard's tastes are top-notch, the extravagance was unusual for a new product launch. Perhaps this, too, hints at LUC's current state.
The journalists gathered from around the world were shown several limited editions, as well as two new models: the LUC Lunar One and the LUC Flying T Twin Perpetual. The former is a cosmetic variation of an existing model, while the latter is a completely new product that combines a flying tourbillon with a perpetual calendar. What's striking about these models is the consistent aesthetic. With slimmer cases and guilloched dials made by the newly acquired Metalem, LUC finally has a unified look after years of inconsistent (or rather, trial and error) designs.
This is the latest perpetual calendar model, released in 2005. The 2012 model change saw the case become larger and more massive, but this time it has taken a completely different approach, becoming more understated. Reflecting Chopard's maturity, the details are now even more delicate and the sense of depth has increased. The dial features a guilloched dial made by Metalem. Automatic winding (Cal. LUC 96.13-L). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 65 hours. (Right) 18K ethical RG case, (Left) 18K ethical WG case (both 40.50mm diameter, 11.63mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Each is priced at 12,947,000 yen (tax included).
The workmanship is meticulous, as is typical of Chopard today. The case size has been reduced, tapering significantly towards the case back, and the watch has been given the vertical grooves common to the current LUC. A change in the finish has seen the lugs go from being molded as a single piece to being welded, and delicate grooves are now applied all the way to the base of the lugs. Furthermore, with the redesign, the crystal has been redesigned to a dome shape, and the crown has been tapered. At first glance, the design is reminiscent of the LUC from 1997, but the biggest difference is that the shape is more three-dimensional.
The dials are also new. Chopard, which had previously held a stake in dial manufacturer Metalem, recently made the company a wholly owned subsidiary. As a result, each of Chopard's collections now features dials with unprecedented design. The two new models are no exception. The dial of the Lunar One features a moon phase, while that of the Flying T Twin Perpetual features a radial guilloched pattern extending from the tourbillon carriage.
This new model combines a T-Twin with a flying tourbillon and a perpetual calendar adapted from the Lunar One. All calendar displays, including the large date, are instantaneous, and multiple safety mechanisms have been added. Like the new Lunar One, it also features an interchangeable strap. Automatic winding (Cal. LUC 96.36-L). 25 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 18K ethical yellow gold case (diameter 40.50mm, thickness 11.63mm). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 27,764,000 yen (tax included).
Chopard has been using guilloché since the 1997 "LUC 1860," but most of the designs have been classical. This time, like the case finish, it has taken on a more modern look, but it doesn't look strange at all. Like Monestier's wine, this is the rich fruit of Chopard's aging.
After the unveiling of the new releases, a lavish dinner was held at the restaurant within Chateau Monestier. Of course, the Monestier wines were the standout among the fine wines and appetizers on the table. Honestly, the taste was better than any other Monestier I have tasted.
After finishing my meal, I went outside to sober up, and a full moon was rising overhead. I learned that the night of September 17th to the morning of the 18th, 2024, is the so-called Harvest Moon, and that at Chateau Monestier, grapes will be harvested and wine will be made on this day. I finally understood. Why did they choose to unveil the new 2025 wine in mid-September? Scheufele's message in arranging the watches under the Harvest Moon is clear: now is the time to harvest LUC, which has become a great vintage.
