The motif of the "Haishuijiang Cliff" was all the rage in China from the Ming to Qing dynasties and was a favorite of the imperial family. Last year, Vacheron Constantin released a timepiece titled "Métiers d'Art - Homage to Traditional Symbols" that reinterpreted the motif using extraordinary techniques.
"Eternal Flow" utilizes cloisonné enamel techniques to depict towering rocky mountains, surging tides, and crashing waves in a variety of colors. The colorful embroidery of the Ming and Qing dynasty royal costumes is beautifully constructed with enamel, which is glazed and fired repeatedly for each color. "Moonlight" features a highly abstract, pure form that depicts the traditional symbol of the Haishui River cliffs, completed with hand-engraving, gem-setting, and the sophisticated techniques of champlevé enamel on a monochrome background of Grand Feu enamel. Automatic movement (Cal. 2460). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 40 hours. (Right) 18K White Gold case (38mm diameter). (Left) 18K Pink Gold case (38mm diameter). Both models are limited to 15 pieces each.
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estlleras)
Text by Koichi Namiki
Text by Koichi Namiki
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
Vacheron Constantin "Métiers d'Art - Honoring Traditional Symbols"
Vacheron Constantin has announced its "Métiers d'Art" collection, inspired by China's "Haishui River Cliffs."
The Haishuijianggai pattern developed during the Qing dynasty, following the Ming dynasty in the 14th century. The motif of waves crashing violently against towering rocks symbolizes wealth and prosperity, and was used exclusively by the imperial family on official robes. For example, a portrait of Yinxiang, the 13th son of Emperor Kangxi, housed in the Smithsonian Museum, features the pattern scattered around the waist, thighs, and hem. The costume worn by the last emperor, Puyi, at his coronation ceremony is also embroidered with the Haishuijianggai pattern. The pattern was passed down to the Ryukyu royal family, and the "Yellow Ground Bingata Lined Costume with Phoenix, Bat, and Treasures, Blue Sea and Standing Waves, and Blue Sea Design," which was produced, is known as a national treasure of Japan.
Many of the Haishuijiangya artifacts, including ceramics and spear banners, are housed in the Palace Museum in Beijing. With the cooperation of a former deputy curator at the museum, Vacheron Constantin has intertextualized this culture into a watch.
"Métiers d'Art - Homage to Traditional Symbols - Eternal Flow" depicts the cliffs of the Haishui River in brilliant colors using cloisonné enamel. Cloisonné, which uses gold ribbons to create outlines, is a traditional Genevan craft. Meanwhile, in China, the Chinese version of cloisonné, called enamel enamel, which primarily uses copper wire, has been passed down since the Ming dynasty. The two cultures have been fused and sublimated by the hands of the Maison's skilled artisans. The process of laying the gold wire alone takes more than 50 hours, and the process of layering colors and repeated firing takes another 70 hours or more. The unique luster, deep hues, and gorgeous coloring are unparalleled.
The other piece, "Métiers d'Art - A Tribute to Traditional Symbols - Moonlight," delicately expresses the movement of the sea and the power of its waves, utilizing Grand Feu (high-temperature fired) enamel, engraving, and gem-setting techniques. The sea is not a solid color; instead, multiple layers of Grand Feu enamel are applied and fired, then engraved with engraving techniques to create a spiral pattern, which is then filled with white enamel, and then further fired and polished. The waves, breaking against the rocks and shining in the moonlight, are depicted with brilliant-cut diamonds, each delicately close-set by hand. The rocky mountains and lapping tides are depicted in highly abstract silhouettes using champlevé enamel (inlaid cloisonné).
A Western gaze directed towards the different cultures of the East, based on an unerring artistic understanding: Vacheron Constantin's virtuosity clearly demonstrates the utmost respect that goes into its watches.
