Five Outstanding Chronographs Released in 2025

We'll introduce five outstanding chronograph models from new watches released in 2025. We've selected two modern, avant-garde designs, two classic designs, and one tough tool watch from brands like Grand Seiko and Breitling. The lineup reflects the unique characteristics and areas of expertise of each watch brand.

A selection of outstanding chronographs from the new watches released in 2025

　Chronographs, which function as stopwatches by having measuring hands, are a popular genre, regardless of whether they are actually used daily. This time, we've narrowed down our selection to five masterpieces, focusing on new chronograph watches released in 2025. The lineup is full of distinctive features from each company, including Grand Seiko, Breitling, and Sinn.

Grand Seiko "Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph" Ref. SLGC009

　Grand Seiko's "Sports Collection" will be adding its first mechanical chronograph model, the "Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph." While there have been chronograph models in the past, they were all equipped with Spring Drive movements.

　This model is equipped with the Caliber 9SC5, also known as the "Tentagraph," Grand Seiko's first mechanical chronograph movement, which was announced in 2023. "Tentagraph" stands for "Ten beats per second, Three days, Automatic chronograph," meaning an automatic chronograph with a power reserve of approximately three days when the chronograph is running. To ensure Grand Seiko's emphasis on "accurate measurement, operability, and durability," the movement also features features like reduced misalignment and hand jumping, as well as a column wheel and trident hammer for improved start/stop and reset operation.

　It is only natural that a chronograph movement with such high basic performance and a comfortable operation would be installed in a sporty model. This model features a tentagraph and a design based on the lion, the symbol of Grand Seiko.

　The case silhouette is inspired by the powerful claws of a lion, and shares some similarities with the "Sports Collection Spring Drive Chronograph GMT" and the "44GS," which established the Seiko style. Meanwhile, the unique appeal of this watch lies in its 15.6mm case thickness, its solid volume, and the edgy shape of the bezel and case.

　The dial also features an original design. It features a "Fuubi" pattern inspired by the way a lion's mane flutters in the wind. The indexes also feature a powerful design reminiscent of a lion's claws, making for excellent visibility.

Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary King Gold Ceramic

　To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Hublot's core Big Bang collection, the brand has announced the release of the limited edition Big Bang 20th Anniversary Edition. The Big Bang is a sporty collection based on the design of the Classic collection, which is now carried on as the Classic Fusion collection. The Classic collection was an epoch-making model that introduced rubber (rubber bands) to luxury metal watches. Hublot considered this "combination of different materials" to be its distinctive feature, and developed it further, solidifying its philosophy of "Art of Fusion" (the fusion of different materials and ideas), which led to the launch of the Big Bang.

　The Big Bang's technical feature is its structure, in which the middle case is sandwiched between plates from above and below, making it easy to combine different materials such as stainless steel, ceramic, titanium, and carbon. This structure also creates a sharp shape and emphasizes the three-dimensional effect, which is also a distinctive feature of the Big Bang's design.

　This time, we will be looking at the "Big Bang 20th Anniversary King Gold Ceramic," a limited edition model celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang. It features a high-contrast design that combines the unique King Gold material, which has a redder hue than traditional gold, with ceramic, a high-tech material synonymous with the brand. It is equipped with the Cal. HUB1280 automatic flyback chronograph movement, and adheres to the design code, with a small seconds hand at 9 o'clock and a 60-minute counter at 3 o'clock.

Sinn "613 St" Ref.613.012

　Sinn's new chronograph, the "613 St," features a 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock. The previous diving chronograph, the "206," combined a 30-minute counter with a 12-hour counter. This arrangement has been adopted in many chronograph models and provides no functional drawbacks. However, when measuring times longer than 30 minutes, such as 45 minutes, it was necessary to read the 30-minute counter, which indicated "15," and the 12-hour counter, which moved by only 0.5 notches.

　In contrast, the new 613 St features a 60-minute counter at the 6 o'clock position, allowing you to read "45" directly when 45 minutes have elapsed. Another distinctive feature is that the 60-minute counter is large on the dial and highlighted in white. These improvements are typical Sinn refinements, responding to the needs of divers who frequently use chronographs and prioritize measuring times between 30 and 60 minutes.

　The push buttons are a welcome feature not to be overlooked by users who frequently use chronographs. This model uses the D3 system, which allows the chronograph to be operated underwater. Furthermore, it boasts high basic performance, including 500m water resistance based on DIN 8310 and certification according to DNV European diving equipment standards EN 250/EN 14143. In addition to diving, this watch will be a reliable partner for users who want to use a chronograph in harsh environments where they are likely to get wet.

Breitling Top Time B01 Racing Limited Edition

　The chronograph function has a history of being used to measure the elapsed time more easily and accurately, and a prime example of this is the aviation industry. Outside of the aviation industry, the chronograph function has also played a major role in sports, particularly motorsports, where every tenth of a second counts.

　Breitling is known for its significant contribution to chronographs for pilots, but it has also made a significant contribution to motorsports, offering a wide range of attractive models.

　One of these is the Top Time from the 1960s, and the newly announced Top Time B01 Racing Limited Edition revives that design. The case is a classic cushion shape, with a tachymeter on the outer edge of the dial. The distinctive rounded subdials feature a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock and a small seconds at 9 o'clock, surrounded by a white border that connects them. This "dashboard" motif, inspired by the Top Time archives, is an icon of this model and also recalls the stopwatches that were often mounted on the dashboards of racing cars of the past.

　The strap that comes with it is what is known as the "rally type" strap, which has a perforated mesh and is often used in old motorsport models, especially rally models, and it is a coordination that further enhances the sporty and classic impression of this watch.

Patek Philippe "Grand Complication" Ref. 5370R-001

　Patek Philippe has added an 18K rose gold case model to its split-second chronograph model "Grand Complication" Ref. 5370. It features a classic look combined with Patek Philippe's latest technology.

　The dial is made of brown genuine enamel, with the 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, the small seconds at 9 o'clock, and the tachymeter-marked outer rim in beige champlevé enamel. The two subdials are offset toward 6 o'clock, maximizing the space available to make the subdials wider and improving legibility. The rose gold tone matches the brown and beige tones for a chic finish, and the Breguet numeral indexes and hands are also made of rose gold, adding a sense of unity to the design.

　Now, let's explain the split-seconds mechanism again. When measurement begins, the two chronograph hands located in the center of the dial overlap and start moving. Unlike a typical chronograph, only the split-seconds chronograph hand can be stopped, while the other hand continues to run. From here, you can either restart the stopped split-seconds hand (in which case it will jump to follow the position of the other chronograph hand), or stop the chronograph. By utilizing this function, it is possible to measure the time at intermediate points on a course and the total time without stopping the chronograph.

　The split-seconds function is in high demand in industries such as aviation and motorsports, but it is not commonly used compared to standard chronographs. This is because the mechanisms for stopping and restarting the two chronograph seconds hands, such as the levers and clutches, are complex, and the load required to jump the stopped split-seconds hand is large, making it difficult to design and manufacture.

　The hand-wound split-second chronograph movement, Cal. CHR 29-535 PS, has an elegant design that makes extensive use of curves, reminiscent of traditional chronographs, but it incorporates seven technical patents, including one for the split-second mechanism, making its performance state-of-the-art. Patek Philippe's stance of continually improving and enhancing the practicality of any complex mechanism is one of its charms.