We review the white dial model of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, announced by Omega in 2024. With a lustrous lacquer finish and three-dimensional indices, this model offers a different feel from the existing black dial model, and is sure to become a popular second choice for the Moonwatch.
Photographs & Text by Tsubasa Nojima
[Article published on January 12, 2025]
The White Dial Moonwatch: A Hot Topic for 2024
The Speedmaster is beloved as a masterpiece of luxury timepieces. The first-generation model was released in 1957 as a robust chronograph watch designed for use in motorsports. In 1962, NASA astronaut Walter Schirra wore a second-generation model when he launched into space. The third-generation model subsequently passed NASA's rigorous testing, and the further improved fourth-generation model finally set foot on the moon. The story of space development, which is sure to warm the hearts of any watch enthusiast, is the unique charm of the Speedmaster.
There are countless derivative models of the Speedmaster, but the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional retains almost the same design and functionality as the fourth-generation model that landed on the moon. Many of them share common design features, such as an asymmetrical case, a bezel with a tachymeter, and a highly legible black dial. In 2024, a lacquered white dial model was added to the Moonwatch. This is not the first time a Moonwatch with a dial other than a black one has been released. However, the regular model with a white dial is a different story.
The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional with a white dial is now available as a regular model. The red accents are inspired by space suits. Manual-wound (Cal. 3861). 26 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel case (42mm diameter, 13.2mm thick). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 1,254,000 yen (tax included).
The inspiration for the white dial model came from the Alaska Project, a prototype developed to withstand extreme temperature changes. Featuring a pure white dial, register hands with fan-shaped counterweights, and a massive red aluminum outer case that completely encases the case, the Alaska Project boasted such core popularity that a reissue model was later released. The white dial Moonwatch, released in 2024, is an authentic model that quietly carries on the Speedmaster's history.
Refreshing and sporty white dial
Let's start by looking at the dial. As mentioned above, the distinctive feature of this model is the lacquered white dial, which has never been seen on previous regular models. The black dial has a rough, matte texture intended to reduce light reflection, but the white dial highlights the glossy texture and smooth surface unique to lacquer finishes, creating a completely different impression. While the black dial had a military feel, the white dial has a refreshing, sporty feel. The tool-like feel is subdued, and the red adorning the "Speedmaster" lettering and the tip of the second hand gives it a slightly pop feel.
The bright, smooth dial also serves to highlight its complex shapes: the circle that traces the inner edge of the minute marker, the three dished subdials, and the slightly recessed outer periphery – when light hits the dial, its rich expressions are fully revealed.
The difference with the black dial isn't just the coloring. The indices and Omega logo have been changed to applied specifications. The dots on both sides of the 12 o'clock index are also three-dimensional, and when viewed through the scratches, you can see that the thin cylinders are standing firmly. The indices and hands are finished in black, creating a contrast with the white dial. Visibility is excellent. On the other hand, the area of the luminous paint on the indices is significantly reduced compared to the black dial. If you plan to use the watch in dark places, you should carefully check this point.
The black tachymeter scale on the bezel is made of old-school aluminum and matches the classic feel of the Speedmaster. It may look a little cheap in this day and age when ceramic inserts are common, but I personally hope the Moonwatch sticks to this design.
The crystal is made of sapphire crystal. The black dial is available in both Hesalite crystal (plastic) and sapphire crystal, while the white dial is only available in sapphire crystal. Hesalite crystal has an irreplaceable appeal in terms of the center of gravity when worn and the story unique to the Moonwatch. However, for everyday use, sapphire crystal is superior as it is durable and scratch-resistant. Because it is box-shaped, there is not much difference in appearance, and the anti-reflective coating on the inside also contributes to improved visibility.
Asymmetrical lyre case
Other than the dial, there are no differences from the black dial model. The case shape is the so-called "harp" type that has continued from the fourth generation. It is asymmetrical because the 3 o'clock side is bulged out to protect the crown and push buttons. The catalog size of this model is 42mm in diameter, but this figure takes into account the bulge of the case that functions as the crown guard, and the diameter of the bezel is 40mm. Considering that crown guards are generally excluded when discussing watch case size, it is safe to say that this model is essentially a 40mm diameter watch. The twisted lugs are short but finished in a three-dimensional style, and have an iconic design that is similar to the current "Seamaster".
The crown is approximately 6.5mm in diameter. The brand logo is embossed on the top. Since it is mostly recessed into the case, it is unlikely to get caught on clothing. However, the protruding bezel makes it difficult to operate. When trying to wind the watch manually, the bezel gets in the way of your fingers.
The bracelet is a new type that was renewed in 2021. Compared to the previous model, the bow lug and links are shorter, resulting in smoother movement. The adjustment links are connected with a flathead screw. Another notable feature is the significant taper, with the buckle measuring 15mm wide compared to the lug width of 20mm. The buckle, which was previously thick and large, has now been given a stylish finish. The buckle is opened and closed with a push button. It is a simple yet sturdy three-fold type, and there is also a fine adjustment mechanism inside the buckle.
The case back proudly displays the words "THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON." The see-through case back allows for a view of the interior. This model is equipped with the Cal. 3861 manual-winding chronograph movement. While inheriting the design of classic Lemania chronograph movements, it is a movement that combines old and new with a co-axial escapement. It has been certified as a Master Chronometer, ensuring precision and magnetic resistance.
One of the joys of a manual-winding movement is being able to appreciate its finish and movement without the distraction of a rotor. This model allows you to admire the Côtes de Genève on the bridges, the chamfering, and the beating balance. The Caliber 3861 chronograph is controlled by a cam and horizontal clutch. Pressing the pusher at 2 o'clock activates a lever to move the cam, sliding the carrying arm. This connects the time and chronograph gear trains with the intermediate wheel, allowing power to flow through the chronograph gear train. Pressing the pusher at 2 o'clock again releases the connection, and pressing the pusher at 4 o'clock again causes the reset hammer to strike the heart cam on the axis of the hands, resetting the movement to zero. Owners can enjoy this entire process over and over again.
The push button has a heavy, solid feel, typical of a practical watch. There's a little play, but when you press it down firmly, you hear a click and the timekeeping starts. It's the opposite of the airy feel of a luxury watch, but considering that this is a tool watch used in motor racing and space development, it suits its character. Winding the mainspring feels a little sticky rather than crunchy, and it gives the feeling of security that it's packed tightly.
A bracelet that is comfortable to wear
Speaking of the Speedmaster, I remember that a while back, it was often criticized as a heavy, thick watch with no comfort to wear. However, in today's world where large sports watches are common, this model's 42mm diameter and 13.2mm thickness are not particularly large. Perhaps this relative impression is combined with the fact that this model feels comfortable to wear.
One of the factors that makes this feel so is the shape of the lugs. From lug to lug, the actual vertical length of the case is approximately 47mm. The only watches I own that are roughly the same length are the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm and the IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVI. Considering this, it's clear that the lugs on this watch are relatively short and trimmed. Another key point is that the lugs curve downward significantly, fitting snugly against the wrist.
The bracelet design makes the most of this advantage. Not only are the individual links short, but even the arch lugs are short, so the bracelet fits snugly to the curve of the arm. No matter how short the case is, it's pointless if the arch lugs protrude too much. Incidentally, as mentioned above, the bezel diameter is approximately 40mm. If you have thin wrists and think that a 42mm case doesn't suit you, we encourage you to try it on. Surprisingly, there are watches whose actual size differs from the size indicated in the catalog.
Also, there's something to keep in mind when considering a watch with a white dial. White, being an expansive color, tends to look slightly larger than a watch with a black dial of the same size. But what about this model? Personally, I don't think it feels too stretched out. I think this is because the stepped dial adds definition, and the black tachymeter tightens the overall look. Even though it's a new model, the Moonwatch is a time-honored masterpiece. It boasts a level of perfection that doesn't disappoint.
Omega presents a second option
This white dial model completely shatters the long-standing stereotype of "Moonwatch = black dial." Its lustrous lacquer dial, contrasting with the tool-like black dial, gives the Moonwatch a new character. Its refreshing, sporty look is a stunning departure from the drab tool watch aesthetic. It's sure to be a catalyst for attracting a new demographic.
On the other hand, the introduction of the white dial model will also add new appeal to the existing black dial model. By offering this option, the black dial will have the appeal of being more faithful to the original. Just as there are romantics who choose Hesalite crystal over sapphire crystal, now you can "actively" choose the same black dial as the model that reached the moon.
It's hard to choose between the white and black dials. But no matter which you choose, the watch is still excellent. It's a highly sophisticated hand-wound chronograph, yet it offers excellent accuracy, magnetic resistance, and legibility. While water resistance could be improved, as long as you maintain it regularly, it's unlikely to experience any issues in everyday life. And despite its impressive specs, the price remains reasonable. While prices have certainly risen in recent years, there's no substitute for it in the same price range.
The white dial model gave the Moonwatch a new appeal. While its release marked a milestone in the history of the Speedmaster, it also likely caused a great deal of concern for watch enthusiasts.
