In 2024, two Japanese brands released dials utilizing "optical multi-layer structures": Grand Seiko and Orient Star. These models have been widely covered in the media, and watch enthusiasts will already be familiar with their construction. Therefore, rather than focusing on the technical and physical aspects of optical multi-layer structures discussed in watch media, I will explain the changing dial colors of the Grand Seiko SBGC275, as well as the magical effect of light known as "Morgenrot," captured within this model, from the perspective of my own specialty, color.
Photographs & Text by Mutsuyo Ito
[Article published on January 14, 2025]
A quick review of optical multilayer coatings
The dial of the Grand Seiko "Sports Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition Model SBGC275" is treated with an optical multi-layer coating. This technology creates multiple nearly transparent thin films on the surface of an object, utilizing the properties of light to create the appearance of "color."
It is a technique that artificially creates structural colors that change color depending on the angle, such as bird feathers and fish scales, and is a coloring technique that differs from painting. Let's take a bird as an example.
The surface of a bird's feathers contains nanometer-scale layers made of a protein called keratin. When light hits this, some of the light is reflected from the surface, and the rest is reflected from the inner layers. These reflected lights cause interference.
Interference is a phenomenon in which, when two or more beams of light that have passed through multiple paths overlap, certain wavelengths of light are reinforced while other wavelengths of light are canceled out. The result of light interference is structural color, which appears as a "color" depending on the viewing angle. Optical multilayer coatings can be designed to change this viewing angle.
This technology has expanded the possibilities for color expression. Colors that are difficult to stabilize through coloring may be able to be used stably using this method.
Furthermore, because a thin film is formed that traces the uneven pattern of the dial, it is possible to create delicate patterns that could not be expressed using conventional painting techniques.
What colors will appear on the dial?
The official description of the SBGC275 dial is that it gradually changes from a pale crimson color (usukurenai) to a shining cloud color (shinonome). Because this is written in the Japanese name for the color, some people may not be able to immediately picture the color when they hear the name. Therefore, we will explain the colors that appear on the dial in an easy-to-understand manner.
When the light is shifted from a position slightly above the front of the dial to a position directly below it, the dial color appears to change in roughly five stages.
① When sunlight hits the dial from slightly above the front, a vivid magenta color appears.
② When sunlight hits it almost directly from the front, the magenta color fades to red.
③When the light hits it from slightly below the front, it turns a yellowish red.
④ If you tilt it further, it will become more yellow and closer to orange.
⑤Finally, the most yellow is felt↓
What is the "Morgenrot" trapped in SBGC275?
As shown above, the multicolored dial recreates a fantastic phenomenon in nature: the "Morgenrot" phenomenon, where the mountain peaks and slopes turn red and orange in the sunlight. As this is a mountain idiom, many people may have never heard of it before. Here is a simple explanation.
The magical light of "Morgenrot"
Morgenrot is a phenomenon in which the morning sun in alpine regions paints the mountains red. It is a mountain word and means "morning glow" in German. It is characterized by the appearance of light in colors such as magenta, red, and orange.
Only when certain conditions, such as mountain height, air clarity, and humidity, can the vibrant colors of the mountains be seen, making this a special moment for climbers and photographers.
The counterpart to Morgenrot is Abendrot
Abendroth appears at dusk, the opposite time of the day from Morgenroth. This is also a mountain word, and means "sunset" in German.
Like Morgenrot, the mountainside is dyed red and orange, but the magenta color does not appear. Another distinctive feature is that the red color can linger in the air for several minutes after sunset.
I took a video of the dial changes
With the explanation so far in mind, please take a look at this video. At first, the magenta color appears vivid, then changes to red, orange, and yellow. In my photographs, the magenta color appeared more vividly in strong sunlight, but was difficult to see in weak white light.
Will learning the story behind the colors change your mood?
"Morgenrot" is a light that can only be seen when the day begins early in the morning and various favorable conditions are on your side. If you lead a busy life, it may be difficult to actually go and see it. Even in such cases, with the SBGC275, you can project your own "Morgenrot" light on your wrist, and the vivid colors may sometimes give you energy.
Author profile
Mutsuyo Ito
A unique consultant specializing in watches and jewelry, she provides consultations and holds color seminars at event venues and boutiques, and also serves as a sales and customer service instructor.
Currently working as a color supervisor for a watch manufacturer. He holds many qualifications, including a J-color certified instructor, color consultant, second-class watch repair technician, and first-class face type diagnosis license. He is also the representative director of parakeITO Co., Ltd.
HP:https://www.mutsuyo-ito-parakeito.com/
