5 New Watches for 2025 Selected by Movement [Rolex, Grand Seiko, etc.]

This article introduces a carefully selected selection of new watches released in 2025 that feature noteworthy movements. It focuses on the movements, the unsung heroes that embody the ideals each company aspires to, such as robustness, precision, size, and unique mechanisms.

Five unique new models equipped with new movements!

　One of the elements that determines a watch's functionality and performance is its internal movement. The mechanisms, such as the chronograph and calendar, as well as the layout of the dial, frequency, power reserve, and case size, are all constrained by the movement. In other words, evolution in the movement leads to greater freedom in watch design and performance. Each company continues to improve its movement in pursuit of its brand's ideal, and even invests significant costs in developing entirely new movement designs.

　Many new movements were announced for 2025. This time, we would like to introduce five models equipped with these new movements. We will explore the appeal of these movements and what each manufacturer has put into them.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40, Ref. 127336

　The Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller is a completely new collection released by Rolex. Not only is it unique in appearance, with an integrated bracelet case and a honeycomb-motif dial, but the movement also boasts noteworthy features.

　The Caliber 7135 used in this model is a new movement developed based on the Caliber 7140 used in the Perpetual 1908. It features the newly developed Dynapulse escapement, which transmits power through rotational motion, improving energy efficiency. It also boasts improved specifications in terms of material robustness and magnetic resistance, such as a high-tech ceramic balance spring made by laser processing and a Syloxi silicon hairspring, making it a movement typical of Rolex, a brand accustomed to creating practical watches.

　Caliber 7135 is also the company's first movement that beats at 10 vibrations per second. High-beat movements are theoretically resistant to external disturbances and enable smooth movement of the hands. This new escapement stands out in every aspect, including its mechanism, materials, and vibration frequency, and is sure to be a milestone for Rolex.

　The bridge is decorated with stripes and can be seen through the caseback along with the yellow gold rotor.

Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA" Ref. SLGB003

　Grand Seiko, a leading Japanese luxury watch brand, has just announced the new "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA," a model equipped with the Cal. 9RB2, a Spring Drive movement that boasts improved precision and a smaller diameter. The "UFA" in the model name stands for Ultra Fine Accuracy, and while previous Spring Drive movements had an average monthly accuracy of ±10 to 15 seconds, the Cal. 9RB2 achieves a significant improvement in accuracy of ±20 seconds per year. This improvement is due to new initiatives such as a three-month aging period for the quartz oscillator, a vacuum-sealed structure for the quartz oscillator and a newly developed IC, and the inclusion of a regulator switch.

　The case, based on the Evolution 9 style, is crafted from bright titanium, boasting a vibrant color, lightness, and corrosion resistance. What's surprising is its compact size, measuring just 37mm in diameter and 11.4mm thick. While previous Spring Drive movement-equipped models struggled to achieve a smaller diameter due to size restrictions, this model overcomes this challenge with the Cal. 9RB2 movement. Another attractive feature of this watch is the bracelet buckle, which features a fine-tuning mechanism that can be adjusted in three 2mm increments.

Zenith "GFJ" Ref. 40.1865.0135/51.C200

　Zenith has added a new collection, "GFJ," named after Zenith's founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. The first collection, Ref. 40.1865.0135/51.C200, is equipped with the legendary Cal. 135 movement, which has been reissued with some improvements.

　The Cal. 135, a hand-wound movement with a small seconds function, is a historic masterpiece that achieved outstanding results in the chronometer competitions held by the former astronomical observatory. With a diameter of 30mm, the maximum size required for the competition, the smooth flow of the wheel train from the barrel to the fourth wheel, and the enormous balance wheel that fills the gap, speak to the state of precision watches of the time. Another attractive feature is its power reserve of approximately 72 hours, while still maintaining a leisurely beat of 5 vibrations per second.

　Not only the movement, but the exterior is also packed with highlights. The blue dial is divided into three sections: the center, the outer periphery, and the small seconds. The use of lapis lazuli, brick guilloched pattern, and mother-of-pearl gives each section a sense of contrast and dynamism. The platinum case is adorned with classic details such as a thin crown and stepped lugs on the sides.

Bvlgari "Serpenti Tubogas" Ref. 103905

　The Serpenti, a watch with a snake motif symbolizing the cyclical rhythm and eternal rebirth of the universe, is one of Bvlgari's signature collections. The rounded triangular case represents the snake's head, while the bracelet extending from it represents the snake's body. Housed within this tiny snake's head is the newly developed compact mechanical automatic movement, the Cal. BVS100 Lady Solotempo. Developed over three years, this movement boasts a compact size of just 19mm in diameter and 3.9mm thick. Equipped with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours, this watch's appeal lies not only in its small size but also in its performance, making it ideal for everyday use.

　The white opaline dial features a sunburst guilloched pattern and pink gold-plated indexes and hands, surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds. The 18K pink gold case and bracelet add a touch of elegance. The crown is set with a pink rubellite.

Otsuka Lowtec "No. 5 Kai"

　Otsuka Low-Tech has been attracting attention for its playful wristwatches featuring unique display mechanisms. Their latest release is the "No. 5 Kai." This model features a satellite hour mechanism that displays the time using a three-pronged arm and a minute scale positioned between the 1 o'clock and 5 o'clock positions. The arm passes over the minute scale over the course of an hour, with the numbers at its tip indicating the hours and the overlapping minute scale indicating the minutes. When one arm reaches its end, another arm overlaps the zero position on the minute scale, marking the beginning of the next hour.

　The smooth movement of this watch is made possible by the small-diameter ball bearings developed by MinebeaMitsumi. The cross-shaped disc that indicates the hours rotates on a ball bearing roller at the 8 o'clock position, which uses a 2.5mm diameter ball bearing. The center of the disc-type small seconds at 5:30 o'clock incorporates the world's smallest ball bearing, measuring 1.5mm in diameter.

　The satellite hour mechanism, made up of multiple overlapping parts, can be admired through the raised box-shaped sapphire crystal, and the solid case and knurled crown add to the appeal of this watch's industrial design.