The era of smaller watches is upon us! Select masterpieces with case diameters of 38mm or less from the 2025 releases

Focusing on small-diameter models, which have seen their lineup expand in recent years, we've selected some masterpieces with cases of 38mm or less from the new watches released in 2025. There are sure to be must-have models for those with thin wrists, those who prefer a vintage feel, and women who want to incorporate the styling of men's models. Even those who haven't paid attention to small-diameter models until now should definitely check them out in stores. It may be the opportunity to discover a new appeal in watches.

Focus on small-diameter models, which will lead to an increase in attractive options

　This time, we will be introducing masterpieces from the new watches coming out in 2025, focusing on case diameters of 38mm or less. Many readers will likely agree with the recent trend of dividing watches into large and small diameter models based roughly on a diameter of 40mm. According to this standard, the watches we will be looking at today, with diameters of 38mm or less, would be classified as small diameter models.

　The recent expansion of small-diameter models is partly a return to the previous "big, thick" trend, but it is also important to note that there are now more attractive options for people with thin wrists, those who prefer a vintage style, and women who want to incorporate the styling of men's models.

　For those who have never tried a small-diameter model before, we encourage you to try on the five new masterpieces of 38mm or less in-store. We hope this will be an opportunity for you to discover a new charm in watches.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35, Ref. IW324903

　The new IWC Ingenieur is a significantly more compact model than the previous one. The previous Ingenieur was completely redesigned in 2023, and the design concept was a return to the Ingenieur SL (Ref. 1832) designed by Gérald Genta in 1976, which has been much talked about.

　While the Ingenieur Automatic 40, released in 2023, has a case diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 10.7mm, the more compact Ingenieur Automatic 35 is not only smaller in diameter but also thinner, measuring 35mm in diameter and 9.44mm in thickness. In reducing the size, not only have design elements such as the smooth lines connecting the case side and bracelet and the screws on the bezel been revised, but every part and detail has been redesigned to maintain the same style. Furthermore, the small, flat silhouette and further improvements from an ergonomic perspective promise a comfortable fit.

　The distinctive feature of this model is the large difference in diameter, with the previous model having a 40mm case diameter and this model having a 35mm case diameter. This is likely a reference to the fact that the Ingenieur SL Ref. 1832, which was first released in 1976, had a 40mm case diameter, while a 34mm model (Ref. 3505) was added in the 1980s.

　In addition to the 18K red gold model (Ref. IW324903) featured here, three other stainless steel models with silver dials (Ref. IW324901) and black dials (Ref. IW324906) were announced, all of which are equipped with the automatic movement Cal. 47110 and offer a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

Omega Seamaster Milano Cortina 2026, Ref. 522.53.37.20.04.001

　The new Omega Seamaster Milano-Cortina 2026, a compact model with a 37mm case diameter that will appeal to vintage watch enthusiasts, is not to be missed among our selection of compact models. Omega, as the Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games, is celebrating the Milano-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games, which will host the opening ceremony on February 6, 2026, one year from now.

　This model is based on the model commemorating the Melbourne Olympics in 1956. Its highlights include the inheritance of the distinctive "clawfoot" lugs, round case, wedge-shaped indexes, dauphine hands, and hexagonal crown that were characteristic of the commemorative model and Constellations of the same period.

　Not only does it inherit the design, but it also incorporates modern Omega technology and craftsmanship, a truly Omega-esque approach. It is equipped with the automatic Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement, Cal. 8807, which meets modern standards for practical precision and magnetic resistance. The unique appeal of this watch is that it combines a classic, compact design with modern-day reliability.

　The case is crafted from OMEGA's exclusive 18K Moonshine™ gold, a material inspired by the moon's glow against a dark blue sky. Its paler hue than typical yellow gold creates an elegant pairing with this watch's white dial, crafted from Grand Feu enamel, its lustrous texture elevating the watch's exceptional character.

TAG Heuer "TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph" Ref.WBY1111.BA0042

　A new 38mm case diameter model has also been added to the TAG Heuer Formula 1, which is related to the beginning of the TAG Heuer brand. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 is a collection that was born in 1986 when the old Heuer made its debut under the brand name TAG Heuer.

　The sporty and pop design, including the vivid coloring, has gained popularity, raising awareness of the TAG Heuer brand while also supporting the lineup as a model that symbolizes TAG Heuer's racing spirit.

　The new additions follow the design of the original model, and many fans will be delighted to be reunited with this beloved model. The biggest talking point about this new model is the collection's first "Solargraph" movement, the Cal. TH50-00. The solar-powered Cal. TH50-00, developed by TAG Heuer, boasts high power generation efficiency, capable of generating a day's worth of energy with just two minutes of direct sunlight. It also boasts excellent reliability, with a battery life of approximately 15 years and a maximum of 10 months of operation on a full charge.

　The case diameter of 38mm has been increased from the original 35mm, but by modern standards, 38mm is compact and close to mainstream size, so it will likely be widely accepted. The finished watch is also slim at 9.9mm, which also helps maintain its compact size.

　The featured model is a sandblasted stainless steel model. It features a black bezel, a white dial with a red ring, and the green and red Tag Heuer emblem. The coloring is reminiscent of classic racing cars, and matches the style of this watch. In addition to this model, there is also a colorful model made from the lightweight and durable bio-polyamide material "TH Polylite." This model also has a design reminiscent of classic models.

Breitling Top Time B31 Ref.AB3113171L1A1

　This year, the Breitling Top Time collection, beloved for its iconic chronographs, added a new model this year: the Top Time B31, a three-hand model with a 38mm case diameter. Breitling has previously taken the approach of incorporating iconic chronograph models into three-hand designs, and these have become increasingly popular. I believe this is due to demand from people who own the original chronograph model but also want to wear a three-hand model depending on the occasion, or that chronograph models and compact three-hand models are being chosen as pair watches in a broader sense.

　The Top Time, which first appeared in the 1960s, has been popular since its inception as a timepiece that pursues high performance and styling suited to sports use. This year, a chronograph model with a cushion case, distinctive rounded subdials, and a dashboard motif has been reissued, raising the profile of the entire collection.

　The Top Time B31 continues this tradition of chronographs while evolving into a series focused on time display. The case diameter retains the traditional 38mm, with classic proportions, and the dial design features edgy bar-shaped hour and minute hands and indexes, adding a modern touch.

　The car featured here is a two-tone color scheme with a green outer rim and black accents, reminiscent of British sports cars. Other color combinations available include blue and white, and beige and sky blue, which are samples of classic racing cars and evoke the lineage of the Top Time.

　In addition to the bracelet, a "rally-type" leather strap with perforated mesh is also available, giving it the feel of a classic motorsport model.

Raymond Weil Millesime 35 Small Seconds Ref. 2130-STC-80001

　The compact size creates a classic impression. From this perspective, the salmon pink dial model of the Raymond Weil Millésime 35 Small Second, with a 35mm case diameter, is a must-have. The Millésime series is based on the concept of "neo-vintage," incorporating the Art Deco style popular in the 1930s. The combination of a 35mm case diameter and a small second hand is reminiscent of dress watches of the past, making this a lineup with a strong retro feel.

　Salmon pink is a popular color found in vintage models, thanks to its distinctive tone and texture. In recent years, it has been used in reissues of vintage models and in new models that inherit the style of the vintage models, and its popularity and recognition has increased. The Millésime 35 Small Second model, which features this color, incorporates Art Deco style and a three-dimensional sector dial, giving it an even more retro and dressy finish. However, what makes the Millésime noteworthy is that it is not a "reproduction of a vintage model." The triangular hands, unadorned indexes, sharp case sides, and the coordination with the gray leather strap give it a modern feel.

　The movement is the automatic Cal. RW4250, with a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. The finished watch is only 10.25mm thick, which, combined with the case diameter, gives it a compact and stylish finish. It could be said that this thin design is essential for the compactness of this watch.