Bulgari's "Serpenti" is inspired not only by the shape of a snake, but also by the mystical transformation that occurs as it sheds its skin. This timeless icon, which has been around since 1948, is being reborn with a newly developed movement, bringing back its "eternal beauty."
Edited & Text by Chieko Tsuruoka (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2025 issue of Kronos Japan]
"Serpenti Tubogas" equipped with a new movement
The Serpenti Tubogas features a two-link bracelet. The bezel is set with 40 round brilliant-cut diamonds, and the crown is set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite. This model, along with the fully polished pink gold "snake body," shines with a powerful brilliance. Automatic movement (Cal. BVS100 Lady Solotempo). 28 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 18KPG case (35mm diameter, 10.8mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 8,085,000 yen (tax included).
In the watch market, Bvlgari has two faces: one as a watch brand with a strong mature manufacture, and the other as a jeweler that creates elegant and original designs. The Serpenti collection embodies the latter face. Featuring an iconic and gorgeous design based on the motif of a snake, which has long been regarded as a mystical creature, it is a watch that is typical of a jeweler with such a long history and prestige. One of the reasons for this is that it has adopted a quartz movement, which is easy to miniaturize.
But the new Serpenti, released in 2025, shows the face of a great watchmaker: it's equipped with a tiny automatic movement.
The BVS100 Lady Solotempo is 19mm in diameter and 3.90mm thick. It's surprising that it's an automatic movement of this size, and it boasts a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The twin bridges supporting the balance and the sturdy bridges also demonstrate the attention to durability. It's practical while maintaining the elegance of the Serpenti, and the skill of Bulgari's manufacture shines through.
While mechanical Serpenti models have been available in the past, they were all special high jewelry watches. This time, two models of the Serpenti Tubogas and seven models of the Serpenti Seduttori are being released as regular models. The cases are thicker than the quartz models, and the crown has also been modified. It is now easier to pull out, making it convenient for winding the mainspring and setting the time.
However, the iconic beauty that has endured for over 75 years remains unchanged. The Serpenti, which has been transformed by a new movement, will continue to add beauty to women's wrists for generations to come.
