Among the Watches & Wonders booths, the Patek Philippe booth was particularly popular. Perhaps due to the large number of noteworthy new releases for 2025, it seemed to be attracting a lot of attention. While the classics include the newly added smaller-diameter CUBITUS and the new Calatrava 6196P, the Calatrava 5328, boasting a power reserve of approximately eight days, is also not to be missed. With excellent design and a newly developed movement, it's a hidden gem.
Automatic winding (Cal. 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 192 hours. 18KWG case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.52mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 1119 million yen (tax included).
Text by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published on January 16, 2025]
Patek Philippe's new Calatrava 5328 is a hidden gem
Every year, Patek Philippe releases a new model that captures the attention of watch enthusiasts. This year's notable models include the small-diameter "CUBITUS," the extraordinary table clock "Grand Complication 27000M," the "Grand Complication 6159" with its smoky dial, and, for watch enthusiasts, the "Calatrava 6196P."
However, there was one other model that Japanese journalists at the Swiss venue all picked up and exclaimed in admiration: the Calatrava 5328. It's a slightly military-inspired Calatrava with a roughened dial and a Clous de Paris finish around the case sides, similar to the Calatrava 5226.
That said, the military feel of the Ref. 5226 and the current Ref. 5326 are slightly different. The Ref. 5226, with its three hands and disc date display, has a slate gray gradation on the dial, while the Ref. 5328, with its hand-type date calendar, disc-type day of the week display, and power reserve indicator, uses a blue gradation. As a result, while this is a rough description, the former has a military feel, while the latter exudes a more naval atmosphere.
Dial design reminiscent of a marine chronometer
Needless to say, the naval chic of the Calatrava 5328 is what makes it a "marine chronometer." Of course, the dial color of a marine chronometer is typically white. However, the combination of the power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, the small seconds hand, which appears large thanks to the outer calendar display, the visual information "8 DAYS," and the blue gradation that evokes the color of the sea are enough to create the illusion of a sea breeze.
When I picked it up and looked at it up close, the combination of the edged indexes and the minute hand that reaches them firmly gave it the appearance of a high-precision watch. I remember being impressed the moment I picked it up, thinking, "This looks easy to use," thanks to its high readability and the high visibility of the rough dial.
I was also impressed by the instantaneous change of the date and day of the week. Not only the hand-type date, but also the day of the week displayed on a disc, changes instantly the moment the clock strikes 12 o'clock. I have publicly stated that I prefer watches without a calendar display, but as mentioned above, the calendar on this model has many design advantages, such as the large appearance of the small seconds hand, and I very much welcome it.
The newly developed hand-wound movement is a classic design
The design of the Cal. 31-505 8J PS IRM CIJ movement is also a personal favorite. The twin-barrel hand-wound movement is a completely new development that uses a Pulsomax escapement, but the large bridge shape gives it the appearance of a classic watch. It's a shame that it doesn't have a return angle, but needless to say, the finish is of a high standard.
Considering its ultra-long power reserve of approximately 192 hours and its 32mm diameter, it should have great potential for expansion. It is natural to expect that it may become the base movement for high-complication watches in the future.
There's a reason otakus are so into it
Of course, the exterior is also impeccable. The lugs remain separate, unchanged from the Calatrava 5226, allowing for the Clous de Paris decoration to be placed all the way around the middle case.
As mentioned at the beginning, this watch has a military feel, but this character is definitely typical of the Calatrava dress watch. The case is just 10.52mm thick, which is hard to believe considering it has a long power reserve of about eight days. That's why Editor-in-Chief Hirota was so interested.
