We asked prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2025. This time, we will introduce the models selected by Homma Keiko, a journalist specializing in watches and jewelry. For this annual project, Homma, who is also a "hardcore jewelry nerd," has chosen a number of eye-catching and glamorous new watches, which is unusual for Chronos Japan and webChronos, which usually focus on men's watches.
Van Cleef & Arpels "Ribbon Mysterieux Watch"
Manual winding. 18K white gold case. Not waterproof. Unique piece. Current market price.
My mouth was hanging open as I gazed upon this watch. The dial features a pure, clear, portrait-cut diamond with a D color (colorless), IF (no internal scratches or inclusions). I have never seen such a high-quality diamond as the dial.
Hermès Maillon Libre Brooch
Quartz movement. 18KWG case (35mm x 23mm). Estimated price: 12,089,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled for release in December 2025.
This design is a must-have for fans of the Chaine d'Ancre, and the blue tourmaline is very beautiful. You can enjoy it as a pendant by putting it in the included crochet, but Hermes also suggests fastening it to the cuff of a shirt or jacket. This idea is very fresh.
Chanel "Mademoiselle Privee Pincushion Beauty Art"
Quartz movement. 18K yellow gold case (55mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 8679 million yen (tax included). Unique piece.
It's so much fun to see the dial used as a canvas, decorated with poppy seeds, pearls, and enamel. The hand with the ring is said to have been taken from a photograph of Gabrielle Chanel. The dial was created by Cadranier Genève, a subsidiary of FP Journe, and every year I'm amazed by the unrestrained collaboration between these two companies.
H. Moser & Cie. "Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop" Ref. 1805-1206
Automatic movement (Cal. HMC 805). 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40.0 mm, thickness 13.5 mm). Limited to 5 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: 13,948,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled to arrive in Japan in June 2025.
I was blown away by this exquisitely expressive color scheme. Different hard stones are combined seamlessly in this piece, and the level of craftsmanship is breathtaking. It must have taken a long time to procure the raw stones with the perfect color and quality. It's like, "Are they really going to make five pieces, not just a limited edition?"
Vacheron Constantin "Traditional Manual Winding"
Manual winding (Cal. 1440/270). 19 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 33mm, thickness 7.70mm). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Limited to 270 pieces worldwide. 484 million yen (tax included).
The mother-of-pearl dial is engraved with a Maltese cross pattern, which also resembles the facets of a diamond, creating a gorgeous effect. Just like diamonds, Vacheron Constantin has many different sides to it. This model represents the sweet and feminine side of the Maison.
General comment
Maybe it's because I'm a hardcore jewelry fanatic that I've noticed an increase in watches with colorful hard stone dials. Hard stones are microcrystalline stones used in cameos and mosaics. Even drilling holes in thinly polished hard stone dials must be a pain, but I've also noticed models that take the time to add indices and small windows.
In the jewelry world, colored stones are currently more popular than diamonds, and rare, high-quality colored stones continue to gain popularity. Perhaps reflecting this trend, it seems that the trend toward vibrant colors is also making its way into watches.
So, while we've seen a variety of hard stone dials, their positioning is somewhat ambiguous, neither for men nor for women. Perhaps reflecting the inclusive trend of recent years, this year the distinction between men's and women's watches has become weaker than ever, and even the term unisex (for both men and women), which was common until recently, is rarely heard.
Some fashion houses have introduced smaller mechanical models that are sizing down their classic Spartan pieces, but interestingly, none of them are explicitly marketed as women's watches. I don't dislike the idea of being free to enjoy watches without being limited to men's or women's. However, I would have liked to see a new genderless watch proposal that goes a step further than the simple idea of simply reducing the diameter of a men's watch.
Profile of Keiko Homma
Journalist specializing in watches and jewelry. A former jewelry designer, he went through many twists and turns before becoming a writer. He always carries a high-powered magnifying glass for jewelry and scratches. His articles are serialized in publications such as Figaro Japon and the Asahi Shimbun.
