We asked prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2025. This time, the selection was made by Yasuhito Shibuya, a watch journalist and author of the webChronos column "Useful!? Watch Industry Chat." Shibuya, who has been covering the watch industry for around 30 years, will share his thoughts on this year's new models, along with how "products can overcome market difficulties."
Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Perpetual Calendar"
Parmigiani Fleurier, which first participated in the SIHH watch fair in 1997, is known for its classic elegance, as befits a legendary watch restorer. Who would have thought that this refinement could be elevated to such an extent by Guido Terreni's sense? It's a delightfully surprising masterpiece.
Manual winding (Cal. PF733). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Pt case (diameter 40.6mm, thickness 10.9mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. 92,000 Swiss francs.
Van Cleef & Arpels "Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automata Watch"
The watch face, with its intricately woven complex mechanism that even captures the differences in the gestures of lovers, and the finest jewellery techniques, turns into the stage for a beautiful and wonderful drama of young lovers set in Paris. This year's latest chapter sees a new twist: dancing!
Automatic winding. Power reserve approximately 36 hours. 18KWG case (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 30m. Price: 24,948,000 yen (tax included).
Hermès "Arceaux Tanche Spondu"
With just a push of a button, you can "suspend the cruel, never-ending flow of time" and "instantly transform objective time into subjective time." This "magic watch" that can change the value and meaning of time has made a welcome comeback after 14 years! The "Hermès Cut" version is also lovely!
Automatic winding (Cal. H1837). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18K White Gold case (42mm diameter). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Estimated price: 6,638,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled for release in August 2025.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40
This first Rolex model, beating at 10 vibrations per second, is a traditional yet innovative mechanical watch, from the heart of the movement, the Dynapulse escapement, which transmits and releases power through rotation rather than sliding, to the ceramic balance shaft and even the fine details of the dial. It truly embodies the future of luxury watches!
Automatic winding (Cal. 7135). 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 66 hours. SS x 18KWG case (diameter 40mm). 100m water resistant. 2,255,000 yen (tax included).
Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA"
It's been 26 years since the first model was released in 1999. The revolutionary hybrid movement "Spring Drive" continues to shine as a unique presence in watch history. Its latest model finally achieves "annual deviation accuracy"! This is one of the most interesting new releases for me this year.
Spring Drive automatic movement (Cal. 9RB2). Accuracy: ±20 seconds per year. 34 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (diameter 37.0 mm, thickness 11.4 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,518,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled to be available at Grand Seiko boutiques and Grand Seiko salons from Friday, June 6, 2025.
Overall review: Three watches that I personally highly praise, and two that anticipate the future of the watch industry!
It is precisely when the watch industry is in a slump that we see an unprecedented lineup of outstanding masterpieces. Furthermore, watch brands always show their "seriousness" on their anniversaries. This is an unfailing "rule" that I've learned from my 30-plus years of experience watching watch fairs. This year's new releases at W&WG 2025 are a perfect example of this rule. The watch industry has been in a global economic downturn since last summer, with no signs of improvement. And just as I predicted, times like these are the perfect time to do so... And just as I predicted, things have unfolded exactly as I expected.
The first three, Parmigiani Fleurier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Hermes, are, objectively and with plenty of memories from my research, "undisputed masterpieces" for me personally. I would like to write about them somewhere.
And Rolex's first completely new model in 13 years and Grand Seiko's latest Spring Drive model are two watches that cannot be left out of the top five because they point to the future of watches.
Of course, there were many other outstanding pieces besides these. The designs that attracted me were Cartier's Tank à Guichet and Vacheron Constantin's Traditionnelle 270th anniversary model. And Tag Heuer's Formula 1 Solargraph, a revival model from the 1980s. The Tudor Pelagos Ultra and Montblanc Ice-Sea Zero Oxygen 38mm captivated me with their overwhelming price-performance ratio. There was also a wide selection of complications, including grand complications from A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, and a minute repeater from Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Making better products honestly and selling them at honest prices. I think that's one way to overcome adversity in the manufacturing industry, regardless of time or place. With Trump's foolish and self-destructive tariff policy, the Swiss watch industry will likely lose its largest market for a while. Some watch parts suppliers will go bankrupt, and some watch brands may be sold or liquidated, or in the worst case scenario, may even disappear. But I believe the Swiss watch industry will somehow pull through. This year's impressive lineup of new products gives us confidence in that.
Selector Profile
Shibuya Yasuhito
As an editor of a product information magazine, he began covering Geneva and Basel in 1995. He has been busy as both an editor and writer, and before he knew it, 2019 was his 25th year. He is currently planning, covering, editing, and writing about not only smartwatches, but also all kinds of things and events other than watches.
