Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025, a trade fair for new watches, was held in Switzerland from April 1st to 7th. We asked our readers to choose their "No. 1 masterpiece" from among the new watches announced at the fair. Here are the top five watches that received the most votes.
What is the "No. 1 masterpiece" of the new watches of 2025 chosen by our readers?
Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025, a trade fair for new watch releases, was held in Switzerland from April 1st to 7th. This festival started in 2020, and this year, marking its sixth year, saw the participation of approximately 60 manufacturers (and brands), the largest number ever.
This time, we asked our readers to choose their "No. 1 masterpiece" from among the new watches announced at Watches & Wonders Geneva. The voting period was from April 10th to 16th, 2025. Based on this vote, we present the top 5 new watches that received the most votes.
In addition, new watches that have multiple variations within the same collection are counted together as "one collection."
5. NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
Automatic movement (Cal. DUW 3202). 37 jewels. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 40mm, thickness 9.9mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 772,200 yen (tax included).
Coming in fifth place is the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. Its main feature is the new automatic movement, Cal. DUW 3202, which, as the model name suggests, is equipped with a world time mechanism.
When the push button at 2 o'clock is pressed, the city disc on the outer edge of the dial and the hour hand move in tandem. Unlike typical world time watches, this model does not feature a 24-hour display disc linked to the city disc, resulting in a streamlined layout. However, the minute circle on the dial features a scale showing the time difference between each city and the reference city at 12 o'clock, making it possible to check the time in each time zone. Furthermore, the subdial at 3 o'clock can display a second time zone, and the push button at 8 o'clock can be used to reset the time on the subdial.
In addition to being equipped with an easy-to-use world time mechanism, this model also boasts a compact size of 40mm in diameter and 9.9mm thick, typical of NOMOS Glashütte, which is a plus point for users. With good looks and excellent functionality, this new watch is sure to make it into the top 5.
4nd Place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA"
Spring Drive automatic movement (Cal. 9RB2). Accuracy: ±20 seconds per year. 34 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (diameter 37.0 mm, thickness 11.4 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,518,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled to be available at Grand Seiko boutiques and Grand Seiko salons from Friday, June 6, 2025.
Coming in fourth place is the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA. The Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph, which was released at the same time as Watches & Wonders Geneva, also received many votes, but this new model, equipped with a new Spring Drive movement, made the list.
The greatest feature of this watch is the presence of the Cal. 9RB2. Seiko calls it the "third movement," and Spring Drive was commercialized in 1999 as a mechanism that is neither mechanical nor quartz. While it uses a mainspring as its power source like a mechanical watch, it is a movement that is regulated by a quartz (crystal oscillator). This time, the Spring Drive has been refined to a high level of precision, with an annual accuracy of ±20 seconds, while also being made thinner and smaller. The case has a compact size of 37.0mm in diameter and 11.4mm thick.
A platinum model is also available, limited to 80 pieces worldwide. Spring Drive automatic movement (Cal. 9RB2). Accuracy: ±20 seconds per year. 34 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 37.0mm, thickness 11.4mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 80 pieces worldwide (40 in Japan). 5.5 million yen (tax included). Scheduled to be available at Grand Seiko boutiques from Friday, June 6, 2025.
Another must-see is the dial, which features a embossed pattern inspired by the frost-covered trees that form in the harsh winter of the Kirigamine Plateau in Suwa, located east of the Shinshu Toki no Takumi Kobo, where Spring Drive is manufactured.
3nd place: Zenith "GFJ"
Manual winding (Cal. 135). 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Pt case (diameter 39.15 mm, thickness 10.5 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 6,952,000 yen (tax included).
Finally, the TOP 3. In third place is Zenith's new collection "GFJ," which features a reissue of the Cal. 135 movement.
The Caliber 135 was manufactured by Zenith from 1949 to 1962. There was the commercial model Caliber 135, and the Caliber 135-O, designed for observatory chronometer testing, where manufacturers competed to prove the accuracy of their watches. The Caliber 135-O won a total of 235 chronometry awards and achieved an outstanding track record, winning first place in the wristwatch category at the Nutéchal Observatory for five consecutive years from 1950 to 1954. The "135" refers to the maximum size allowed in the wristwatch category at the Nutéchal Observatory competition: 13 lignes (30mm), which is 5mm thick.
This movement has been reproduced down to the original size, appearance, and structure, so it's no surprise that the collection is named after the initials of Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot. While it's a reproduction, it has also undergone modern improvements, and boasts a practical power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
The round case, measuring just under 40mm in diameter, features a small second hand and a classic style, but the dial, made of three pieces of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl, is decorated with a "brick" guilloche pattern, giving it a unique elegance.
2th place: A. Lange & Söhne "1815"
Manual winding (Cal. L152.1). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KWG or 18KPG case (diameter 34.0mm, thickness 6.4mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 385 million yen (tax included).
Coming in second place is the A. Lange & Söhne 1815, which boasts a very classic 34mm diameter. The previous 1815 model had a case diameter of 38.5mm, even for the basic three-hand model. This case has been significantly reduced in size, resulting in a style reminiscent of classic dress watches from before the 1960s.
The fact that a movement housed in this case size is a new development is a testament to A. Lange & Söhne's reputation. The manual-winding Caliber L152.1 is the 75th movement produced since the brand was revived in 1990 and released four collections in 1994.
The lineup includes two types: an 18K white gold case or an 18K pink gold case, both of which feature a deep blue dial.
Although the number of votes received by the third place candidate was quite far apart, the difference between the first place candidate and the third place candidate was only two votes.
1st place: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller
Automatic winding (Cal. 7135). 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 66 hours. Pt case (diameter 40mm). Water resistant to 100m. 9,427,000 yen (tax included).
Readers of Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 have ranked the best watches. The top spot goes to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller.
This new collection features a new design, including an edgy bracelet that blends seamlessly with the edgy case, and a dial with a hexagonal pattern. Although it's a "new design," this exterior shape was seen on the quartz model in 1969 and the Datejust in 1974, and the dial with Arabic numerals only at 6 and 9 is a style seen on the Air-King, but it's a design not seen on recent Rolex models, giving it a fresh impression.
The fact that it is a "new collection" and a "new design" alone makes a big impact, but what makes this model even more "new" is that it is equipped with the newly developed movement, Cal. 7135.
Caliber 7135 is equipped with a new escapement, which Rolex calls the "Dynapulse Escapement." It also features a high-beat design of 36,000 vibrations per hour, silicon instead of blue Parachrom, and a balance shaft made of high-tech ceramics developed exclusively by Rolex. This new movement exemplifies Rolex's innovative spirit in every respect.
The fact that this movement can be viewed through the transparent case back is rare among current Rolex watches and a welcome feature for users.
In this ranking, the Rolex model "1908" also received a large number of votes, but the Land-Dweller came out on top, beating out new watches from other brands.
Thank you for all your votes!
