One of the watches Bell & Ross unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva in 2024 was the BR-05 Black Ceramic. Here, we'll share our impressions of this urban sporty watch. This is the first time the BR-05 series has adopted ceramic, and its understated polish creates a luxurious feel, attracting attention from people of all ages and genders.
Text by Yoko Koizumi
[Article published on January 21, 2025]
Bell & Ross specializes in stylish military watches
Although the official founding date of the Bell & Ross brand is currently 1994 (the year the first model was released), the company was actually founded in Paris, France in 1992.
While it had been attracting attention since its debut, it really took off with the introduction of the square-shaped BR-01 in 2005. The square shape combined with a military feel was innovative, and the large 46mm case size was a surprise. Of course, 46mm is large considering the size of Westerners, but I thought it would be comfortable to wear.
This masterpiece, born in 2005, made Bell & Ross famous around the world. This square-case military watch, inspired by aviation instruments, was met with astonishment at the time. Automatic movement (BR-CAL.302/ETA2892A2). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel and PVD case (46mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m.
Looking back at 2005, when the BR-01 was released, it was a time when each brand was releasing so-called "super-class" complicated mechanisms one after another. Even tourbillons exuded a "standard" feel that was intimidating. Prices of 2000 million to 3000 million yen were commonplace, and looking back now, I think, "There was something wrong with them..." That said, this was a time when watches were constantly evolving, and there's no doubt that this battle for technological development has led to the fascinating world of watches today, so I'm grateful to the industry for making me go "Wow!" and "Ahh!" so many times during this period.
So, in this trend, Bell & Ross' BR-01 is here. You can see that it's in a refreshing position.
The first model appeared in 1997. It is a practical watch with a two-piece case, with the bezel and middle case integrated. The photo shows the second generation, which featured improvements to the shape of the indexes, and was replaced by its successor, the "Vintage BR 123," in 2010. Automatic movement (Cal. ETA2895A2). 27 jewels. Reference product.
Their stance is based on four basic principles: visibility, functionality, high precision, and reliability. They state that "every detail has its own meaning and function," so they firmly refrain from making anything that "doesn't have a reason."
And yet, it has a subtle "stylish" quality. At the time, I wondered if this was the so-called "French spirit," but I had fallen in love with the stylish design of the "Vintage 123" released in 1997, so I was simply satisfied with this model, thinking, "So this time the motif is a cockpit. And he's managed to make it "stylish," so he really has great skill." It was a little big, though.
Bell & Ross, the counterpart to the ultra-technical watch, appeared fresh to many users, and its square and military style was even more innovative, making it inevitable that it would become popular. Twenty years later, it has become a brand icon, with recognition so high that it can be recognized even from a distance. It is no exaggeration to say that this model helped develop Bell & Ross as a brand. The BR series lineup continues to expand, with the release of the BR-03 in 2006, which downsized the case to 42mm, and the BR-05 in 2019, which featured a square bezel with screws on all four corners.
How black ceramics are gaining attention
Following this trend, this review is of the BR-05 Black Ceramic, which was released last year.
The BR-05 was born out of a desire for a watch that was more casual to wear yet still retained the signature Bell & Ross aesthetic. It is smaller than the BR-03 and features a bracelet that is integrated into the case, specifically designed for the BR-05. The collection promotes Bell & Ross' unique "urban style," elevating military elements into a sophisticated design. As mentioned earlier, it was launched in 2019, marking its sixth year this year. The collection is gradually expanding, and the BR-05 Black Ceramic is one of them.
The 3-hand model with a date display is 40mm, but this model has the same configuration but is sized up to 41mm. The reason for this is that "black makes it look more compact," so the +1mm was chosen for the visual effect.
Automatic (BR-Cal.321-1). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 54 hours. Ceramic case (diameter 41mm, thickness 11.2mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,463,000 yen (tax included).
To be honest, I felt that the previous BR-03 models were quite large, so I was pleasantly surprised at how perfectly sized they were on my wrist! While it's difficult to say whether the 41mm case diameter can be categorized as unisex, I can say with confidence that it will be popular with at least many women. One of the reasons for this is the beauty of the ceramic.
There are many different shades of black for watches, but I felt that this model allows you to enjoy the combination of black, including the texture. The polished parts in particular have a depth and luster that is different from metal.
Black luxury has become the standard for women's watches since the introduction of Chanel's J12 in 2000. It remains a hugely popular model, but on the other hand, it has become so iconic, and everything is so shiny and glossy, that many people feel intimidated to wear it.
In contrast, the BR-05 Black Ceramic is polished to just 1mm on the edges of the bezel and case. It shines slightly depending on the light, and this subtle detail is wonderful.
The bracelet is also made of ceramic, but the central links are polished to a high finish. This creates a luxurious shine. Its brilliance is more apparent from a distance than when viewed up close. It becomes "quite an eye-catching piece."
Due to the nature of my job, I often wear a variety of watches (not my own), but when I look at the "BR-05 Black Ceramic," I often get asked, "Where's that watch?" It seems to have particularly resonated with men in their 20s and 30s, some of whom have only ever used smartwatches in their entire lives. Guys love things that have a subtle sparkle, don't they?
Even my 83-year-old mother, who had never paid any attention to my watches before, praised them, saying, "Oh, isn't it nice? It's a little different from the watches I've seen before."
And the fit of the bracelet was fantastic. To be honest, with bracelet models, the buckle often shifts from the center of the wrist depending on how the links are adjusted, which can cause the watch to rattle and make the fit uncomfortable, but this one fit perfectly.
Perhaps it's due to the characteristics of ceramics, but it doesn't feel cold when worn, and the buckle is easy to use. I didn't feel any stress in my daily use. This is a model that will be very attractive to women as well.
The movement is the Caliber BR 321-1, which has a black ruthenium finish to match the case (ruthenium is apparently the element with atomic number 44). It uses Sellita's Caliber SW300 as its base and is customized with a 360-degree rotating rotor that covers the balance, balance spring, and entire movement without obscuring them.
The rotor was designed specifically for the BR-05, and you can see it all through the transparent case back...or so I'd like to say, but unfortunately, because it's a bracelet, it's a little difficult to see the whole picture. If you can't resist admiring the rotor, there is also a rubber strap version available, so be sure to check that out too.
Happy 60th birthday!
Bell & Ross was founded by Bruno Belamich and Carlos-Antonio Rosillo. The two were classmates in high school and shared a common love for military watches. The watch brand that they founded was Bell & Ross.
Both men were born in 1965 and founded their company in Paris in 1992, at the age of 27. While it is not unusual nowadays for someone to start a business at that age, more than 30 years ago, being from France was a rare sight in the watch industry.
I first encountered Bruno Belamich at the Basel Fair (later renamed Baselworld) in 1997 or 1998. I visited his booth and he introduced me to his new products. The company I was working for at the time had a close relationship with Sinn, so I remember going to cover the brand.
There are many articles about Bell & Ross's relationship with the German watch company Sinn and its founder, Helmut Sinn. For more information, see "Watch Paranoia Chronicles: The Story of the Birth of Bell & Ross" (http://www.webchronos.net/comic/90256/)please look at.
There I saw the "Vintage 123," and its style, which was not just a military watch but offered a new interpretation, was very appealing. A military watch with a white dial, wow, I was amazed. Their watchmaking philosophy is what we call simple and sturdy. While the term sounds like it would have a rugged style, it's actually wonderfully sophisticated. Stylish yet simple and sturdy. I realized that these contradictory words can coexist.
However, there was another thing that surprised me, and this was for personal reasons: I was born in 1966, so I was the same generation as them. I was shocked at the difference between them, just around 30 years old, setting up a booth at the Basel Fair and confidently showcasing the watches they had made, and myself, who still didn't know much about watches.
Perhaps back then there weren't as many interviews as there are now, or perhaps he was just interested in other brands, but I bumped into Bruno several times at the venue during the event. There were still not many Japanese people at the venue, so he probably remembered me, and we would greet each other politely, but after about the third time, we'd end up smiling wryly and saying, "You again!"
With those memories, I wanted Bell & Ross to succeed, and it was always a brand I was interested in. I am very happy about their current popularity worldwide, and as someone of the same generation, I am especially pleased that Bruno is active at the forefront of the industry.
This year, Bruno and Carlos-Antonio Rosillo both turned 60. Although the French probably don't have a concept of 60, we would like to send them our 60th birthday wishes from Japan. Let's both do our best!
From now on, they will likely be at an age where they will be passing on the art of watchmaking to the younger generation, just as they learned from Helmut Sinn, but I hope they will continue to create fascinating watches like the ``BR-05 Black Ceramic''...and just as I was thinking this, I was surprised to hear that a 36mm version of the ``BR-05'' was announced this year!
The following is a copy and paste from an article on Webchronos.
"In this model, the complex BR-05 case design has been completely redesigned, successfully reducing the size by 4mm from the previous minimum diameter of 40mm. Furthermore, in line with the smaller case, the thickness has also been reduced to 8.5mm, and the bracelet has been optimized to provide a better fit on the wrist."http://www.webchronos.net/features/135608/）
Oh my goodness! Ah, I'm really interested in this too. I think I'll buy it for my 60th birthday.
