This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches from those unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025. This time, we will introduce the five watches selected by Norio Takagi, author of books such as "How Wristwatches Work" and "The World's Easiest Guide to How Wristwatches Work [Complex Watches]." Of the new watches that Takagi interviewed on-site, with high hopes for "future collectors," which new watch did he choose as his No. 1?
1nd place: A. Lange & Söhne "1815"
The new 34mm case model added to the collection, coupled with its deep blue dial, is a symbol of this year's new trends. The movement is a newly designed one. It's small and thin, yet impressively capable of running for approximately 72 hours.
Manual winding (Cal. L152.1). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KWG or 18KPG case (diameter 34.0mm, thickness 6.4mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 385 million yen (tax included).
2nd Place: Grand Seiko "Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive UFA" Ref. SLGB003
The Spring Drive UFA, which has evolved to achieve ultra-high accuracy of ±20 seconds per year, is housed in a 37mm bright titanium case. Small, light, scratch-resistant, and extremely accurate, it's the perfect everyday watch.
Spring Drive automatic movement (Cal. 9RB2). Accuracy: ±20 seconds per year. 34 jewels. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Bright titanium case (diameter 37.0 mm, thickness 11.4 mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,518,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled to be available at Grand Seiko boutiques and Grand Seiko salons from Friday, June 6, 2025.
3st Place: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic
The appearance of a world time watch with a reversible rectangular case was a surprise. The movement is a "Duo" that has been converted into a world timer with minimal operation, and is highly reliable. The idea of fixing the city ring is also very clever.
Manual winding (Cal. 834). 18 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18KPG case (49.4mm x 29.9mm, 11.14mm thick). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Limited to 150 pieces worldwide. Price: 5,456,000 yen (tax included).
4th place: Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Perpetual Calendar" Pt case
The minimalist perpetual calendar display, with two subdials offset slightly downwards, is extremely elegant. As a result, the beauty of the traditional grained finish stands out. The pale blue color is refreshing and fresh to the eye.
Manual winding (Cal. PF733). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Pt case (diameter 40.6mm, thickness 10.9mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. 92,000 Swiss francs.
5th place: Cartier Tank à Guichet 18K Yellow Gold case
The moment I saw it, I applauded. It was a reissue of my favorite model. Also known as the Iron Mask, this new model features two windows with jumping hours and a disc-type minute display, and is a careful refinement of the mechanism and appearance of the original model from 1928.
Manual winding (Cal. 9755 MC). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18K yellow gold case (37.6 x 24.8 mm, 6 mm thick). Not waterproof. Price: 759 million yen (tax included).
General comment
If we were to describe the trends in this year's new releases announced at W&WG, we'd say they were classic, small, and in nuanced colors. While there were a few flashy complications, the strong impression was that the focus was more on improving the exterior. Last year, there was a trend toward a more classic style, but this year it felt like things had progressed even further. Case sizes are also becoming smaller. Blue dials and cases were seen in large numbers, and it seems to be becoming a trend, but each manufacturer showed their own individuality by varying the intensity and texture of the color.
Although it didn't make it into the top five, Rolex's use of pale colors like lavender and sand beige was truly refreshing. Nuanced colors like salmon pink and mint green were also more prevalent than usual, making each booth more vibrant than ever. Hard stone dials were seen at numerous brands, likely the result of each brand's search for new ways of expression.
It would be premature to conclude that the focus on exteriors is the result of the watch market being in a difficult position. In fact, many watch enthusiasts desire classic, simple watches. The emergence of a large number of simple, classic watches at realistic prices will likely help to attract new users.
I visited the venue on an open day, and there were a surprising number of people with children. I'm sure that some of the children, held by their parents and peering at the new works, will be future collectors.
Selector Profile
Norio Takagi
A watch journalist, he is one of the industry's leading theorists, and his articles are captivating, backed by the knowledge he gained in the Faculty of Engineering and his overwhelming experience in reporting. His extensive knowledge and sharp perspectives are used to write articles for watch magazines, as well as watch features in general magazines and beginner-friendly articles in newspapers. He has published two introductory books on mechanical watches, "How Wristwatches Work" and "The World's Easiest Guide to How Wristwatches Work [Complex Watches Edition]," both published by Sekai Bunka Publishing.
