We asked prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches from those unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025. This time, Ken Kazuto, former web editor of Lonely Planet and currently a freelance editor in charge of watches at ENGINE, chose five watches from those he actually saw at the venue.
・Jaeger-LeCoultre "Reverso Tribute Geographic"
It's finally here! I couldn't help but smile. Silver land (including the Japanese archipelago!), blue sea, easy-to-read city names, a large date display... The functionality and design are both excellent. You can wear it on your trip, or sit in an armchair and imagine your travel destinations while turning the disc.
Manual winding (Cal. 834). 18 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel case (49.4mm x 29.9mm, 11.14mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. 3.3 million yen (tax included).
・Rolex "Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller"
Based on the crowds on the public opening day, this is the "Star of the Show" of the year. It's packed with excitement, featuring an integrated bracelet, fluted bezel, new movement, see-through case back, and a 36mm case. The sporty honeycomb dial is also expected to be available in a black finish, adding a bolder look.
Automatic winding (Cal. 7135). 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 66 hours. SS x 18KWG case (diameter 40mm). 100m water resistant. 2,255,000 yen (tax included).
・Hermès "Hermès Cut Tanchspondue"
Temporarily forget the constraints and passage of time. The "suspended time" mechanism, which gives the feeling that time has stopped, is an expression of Hermès' unique wisdom and playfulness. When you feel excited, take a deep breath and press the button at 8 o'clock. The counterclockwise indicator at 4 o'clock is also stylish.
Automatic winding (Cal. H1912). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 39mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. Estimated price: 7,502,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled for release in August 2025.
・Patek Philippe "Calatrava 5328"
This hand-wound model features a power reserve of approximately eight days and is finished with the same design grammar as the Ref. 5226, about which I wrote a love letter in the May issue of ENGINE. When I put it on my wrist, I was immediately impressed by how the design, texture, volume, and legibility all matched my tastes. Its youthfulness is also appealing.
Automatic winding (Cal. 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J). 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 192 hours. 18KWG case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.52mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 1119 million yen (tax included).
・IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
We recommend this watch as a representative of this year's small-diameter watches. Rather than simply making it smaller, we pursued the "optimal solution" in the design of the parts and details, resulting in a 35mm bracelet watch with a very high level of perfection, including the wearing comfort. The gold is also great for sharing with a partner.
Automatic movement (Cal. 47110). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 35mm, thickness 9.4mm). Water resistant to 10 ATM. Price: 2,673,000 yen (tax included).
Overall comment: "Let's have a watch festival in Tokyo too!"
I think it was a bold decision for Watches & Wonders Geneva (W&WG) to open its doors to the public two years ago. This year, 23,000 tickets were sold, a 21% increase over the previous year. Tickets for Saturday and Sunday, which are not cheap at 70 Swiss francs (40 for young people, 60 for seniors), sold out quickly. The "Premium Package" for 550 Swiss francs, which includes perks such as parking, access to the rest lounge, lunch, and gifts, also sold out in advance. *Data released by the W&WG Foundation.
At previous Baselworld events, general visitors could only view the showcases from outside. However, at W&WG, many brands invite visitors inside their exhibition booths. It's a great opportunity to immerse yourself in each brand's worldview and see new releases and art pieces up close. Watch lovers of all ages and genders line up in orderly fashion, browsing with shining eyes and chatting with smiles on their faces. Multiple languages are spoken, and there were even tourists from Japan proudly viewing the Grand Seiko booth.
The Geneva Auto Show may be gone, but the watch salon has made a comeback and is on the road to prosperity. I wonder if we could hold a watch festival in Tokyo where Seiko, Citizen, Casio, Orient Star, and others could all come together and enthusiasts from all over the world could gather. I would like to see exhibits not only from the major manufacturers, but also from Miyota, Minase, Quo, and Knot. I'm sure there will be many fans who would like to hear the voices of Japan's proud independent watchmakers, Hajime Asaoka, and "Watch Guy" Naoya Tobita... I was daydreaming and daydreaming about these things on the plane on my way home.
Kazuto Ken's profile
Editorial journalist. Began covering the Basel/Geneva watch fairs in 1998 for the business magazine Weekly Diamond. Worked at the editorial department of Shinchosha's ENGINE from 2003 to 09 (in charge of cars and watches). After that, he served as the MOOK/Web editor of Lonely Planet, before going independent in 21. He has also served as a contributing editor for ENGINE magazine since 23.
