This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches from those unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025. This time, we will introduce the models selected by watch journalist Tetsuo Shinoda. While 2025 marks the anniversary of many brands' foundings or the debut of their collections, and as such there were many excellent pieces, Shinoda chose Vacheron Constantin as his number one. However, he will also be highlighting two watches that "really caught his eye."
1st place: Vacheron Constantin "Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication -La Premiere-"
Automatic movement (Cal. 3655). 204 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18K white gold case (diameter 45mm, thickness 14.99mm). Unique piece. (Inquiries) Vacheron Constantin Tel. 0120-63-1755
This is the number one model of the year in terms of its uniqueness. I was also able to touch the watch, which was a great thrill. The astronomical mechanisms are quite complex, but ultimately, clocks and time are romantic, and I realized that we shouldn't live our lives fighting for every minute and every second.
2th place: Parmigiani Fleurier "Trick Perpetual Calendar"
Manual winding (Cal. PF733). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 40.6mm, thickness 10.9mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide. 85,000 Swiss francs. (Inquiries) Parmigiani Fleurier pfd.japan@parmigiani.com
One look and you'll gasp, then a closer look and a further sigh, then a look at the movement and a further sigh. It's simply a beautiful watch. I was impressed by how a perpetual calendar, a mechanism so familiar to many, could be made so elegant with a sense of design.
3rd place: Jaeger-LeCoultre "Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Second"
Manual winding (Cal. 822). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. 18KPG case (45.6mm x 27.4mm, 7.56mm thick). Water resistant to 3 ATM. 6,424,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833
Gold bracelets have been all the rage in recent years. Every brand is putting their all into this genre, but this year, this is the ultimate. It's delicate and beautiful, yet has a strong presence. I want to flip the case over and wear it as a bracelet with the solid back.
4th place: Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary
Automatic movement (Cal.HUB1280). 43 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18K King Gold + black ceramic case (43mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide. 5,269,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Hublot Tel. 03-5635-7055
Hublot's simultaneous release of five models, each representing a different style that has had a major impact on the watch industry, is a clever move. Personally, I prefer the King Gold and ceramic model. The second design is also fresh.
5nd place: A. Lange & Söhne "1815"
Manual winding (Cal. L152.1). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KPG case (diameter 34.0 mm, thickness 6.4 mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 3,850,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845
The 34mm diameter is a wonderful size. It's small, but has a concentrated feel, and the movement is also impressively compact. The combination of the deep blue dial and gold case is very glamorous. I'd love to wear it with a suit.
General comment
As always, I am amazed by the passion and talent of the people involved in the planning, development, and design of each watch brand. I go to Switzerland thinking that there is nothing more that can be done in the small world of watches, but exciting watches are always released. This year there were many anniversary brands and anniversary models, and perhaps because of the enthusiasm, there were many excellent products.
The Vacheron Constantin "Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication -La Premiere-," which I received a secret presentation of at the company's headquarters on the day I arrived in Geneva, was the first of these. The world's most complicated wristwatch, with 41 movements, is a fitting milestone for the company's 270th anniversary. Another important anniversary is the 20th anniversary of Hublot's "Big Bang." This monumental model, a masterpiece that will remain in watchmaking history, is a natural evolution of the Unico II. The two-eye layout and the refined design are also impressive. And while not an anniversary model, the small-case "1815" from A. Lange & Söhne, celebrating the 210th anniversary of the company's founder's birth, is also noteworthy.
But what really caught my eye were two models that embody refined luxury: Parmigiani Fleurier's Toric Perpetual Calendar and Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. These watches are for adults who want to enjoy quality time, and I want to be the kind of adult who can pull off such a watch.
Selector Profile
Tetsuo Shinoda
Born in 1975, he worked in the editorial department of Kodansha's Hot Dog Press before going independent. He writes a wide range of watch articles, from serious to casual, for a variety of publications, including watch magazines, fashion magazines, business magazines, newspapers, and the web. In addition to his work, he is also attending the Watch Course (Career School Watchmaker Course) at Hiko Mizuno Jewelry College, a watchmaking school, where he is learning about watch theory, structure, and disassembly and assembly techniques. He is a regular judge for the Top 10 Rankings published by Chronos Japan. In 2020, he published "Choosing a Watch as a Cultural Education" (Kobunsha Shinsho).
